Nils

The Enticing Himalayas – Winter Kuari Pass Trek Part 3

Himalayas, India, Travel, Uttarakhand / By / November 9, 2021

The stories of Day 1 and 2 of the trek can be found in Part 1 and Part 2.

So Cold!!

On reaching Tali campsite at the end of our trek on Day 2, we headed straight to the kitchen tent to warm up and there we stayed till evening. Several cups of hot tea and bowls of maggi were consumed to ward off the biting cold and to re-energize ourselves after the 13km long trek. From evening till dinnertime, we spent the time in our tents having naps and just resting.

That night’s dinner, delicious though it was, provided only a small respite from the bitter weather. It kept snowing at a steady rate and the ground was carpeted by fresh snow a few millimeters deep. Inside our tents, we had to keep hitting the roof to ensure that snow didn’t collect for very long and bury the tent. When we tried to sleep though, it proved to be impossible – we were literally shaking, our teeth chattering. Cold rose from the ground in waves and any number of layers or even the body warmers couldn’t help. Temperatures had dropped to sub-zero zones, to about -25 deg.C!!

The Descent to Base

The next day, however, dawned bright and sunny to our delight. The unbearable cold had gone and we were left with a manageable cold and a clear, sparkling sky. After breakfast, we packed up for the final time, said goodbye to our camp crew before we set off.

Day 3

We started from Tali at 9AM on day 3, the final day of our trek. Almost as soon as we started our walk, we encountered amazing views behind us. The sun shining down on the fresh snow and the clearly visible majestic peaks. We simply stared with wonder at nature’s beauty. Last night’s snow seemed to add an extra dimension of magnificence to the whole scenery.

Initial part of the day was a medium incline or ascent, and the final part was a mix of gradual and steep descent down to our base point. The sceneries that we came across as we walked on steadily were mind blowing. It was nature at its best, in all its glory and splendor and we were right in its lap!

We started with exclamations like “Omg! Wow!”, “That’s amazing, what a view”, “Never seen anything like this!”, until we soon ran out of words. There weren’t any adjectives to describe the brilliance of what we were witnessing. Every turn of the trail opened up another new mountain peak and scenery.

Ultimately, we started to leave behind this gorgeousness and climbed down to lower altitudes. We traveled via Gurson Bugyal top, onto Gurson Bugyal and finally down to Auli, our final stop.

Unforgettable Views

The universe compensated for the cloud cover of the day before and rewarded us with such amazing panoramic views that is hard to put down in words. Seeing is believing. That day we saw some mighty peaks of the Himalayas – Dronagiri, Mt. Kamet, Nanda Devi, Trishul , Chaukhamba, Neelkanth, Hathi Ghoda and some which we did not know the name of but were equally breathtaking.

We saw these mountains at various angles, with the sun and shadows creating views unlike any other, giving birth to unforgettable sceneries.

Day 3 Summary:

From/To: Tali to Auli via Gurson Bugyal

Distance: 9 kms.

Altitude: 11000ft to 11500ft to 9500ft

Walking Time: 5.5-6 hours

Peaks: Dronagiri, Mt. Kamet, Nanda Devi, Trishul , Chaukhamba, Neelkanth, Hathi Ghoda

Memories of a Lifetime

From Auli we were driven by car to Joshimath, where we stayed the night and from there on, traveled the next day to Rishikesh (10 hours by car and finally back to Mumbai. At Joshimath, the fatigue hit us; extreme exhaustion settled upon us and we barely felt able to make it to dinner. And the pain….! Oh, the pain in the legs, I was literally limping. But I wouldn’t exchange it for anything in the world.

This Winter Kuari Pass trek was my first ever trek. I never knew I had this stamina, bravery, strength and will in me to do this. There were bad moments – when I slipped and fell and hit my bum, when my foot slid dangerously close to the edge on the icy snow, when I felt I just couldn’t take the cold anymore and tanning up like crazy, skin bleeding due to dry chappiness and mini frostbite. But nothing, nothing will ever come close to what I saw – nature’s loveliness which I was fortunate enough to behold.

It is the experience of a lifetime with memories forged that will be there in my heart forever.

Things to know before you do a winter trek

  • Clothes: Thermals, fleece jacket, down jacket (which should also be wind and waterproof). Atleast these 3 layers plus woollen mufflers, gloves (one woollen, one waterproof), socks, hat.
  • Shoes: Trekking shoes with bottom treads.
  • Miscellaneous:
    • Body warmers (I recommend)
    • Sanitizing wipes, tissues
    • Headlamps with extra batteries
    • Bag with waterproof cover
    • Sunglasses are a must (can cause snow blindness otherwise)
    • Moisturizer to take care of dry chappiness
    • Thermos to carry warm water.
  • Remember! (for any trek):
    • Do not throw away your trash carelessly, clean up after yourself.
    • Collect the trash and dispose it off properly. Respect nature, it is giving you so much to cherish.
    • Avoid use of plastic as they are toxic.
    • Do not waste, be it food or water. Resources are scarce, use them responsibly.

That said, enjoy the gift of nature and absorb the pure atmosphere all around you.

This post was written as part of Blogchatter’s Cause A Chatter campaign – “Nature Talks”; where I led a rustic life in harmony with nature.

The Charm of Himalayan Mountains – Winter Kuari Pass Trek Part 2

Himalayas, India, Travel, Uttarakhand / By / October 26, 2021

The initial pre-trek and Day 1 story are here in Part 1. Carrying on from there…

T minus 7 Hours

The night at Gulling campsite was freezing cold, and when we lay down on the ground inside our tent – albeit over a mat – our backs froze. The sleeping bags itself came with a layer of warm material plus we had on our inner thermals, tee shirt and fleece jacket. We also had on our socks and gloves. Despite this, it felt cold. To give ourselves that final warmth, we had brought body warmer patches which we attached to our back and the backs of our legs. This helped a lot, and we could catch a few hours of sleep.

I have never done camping so this feeling of sleeping under the open sky with utter silence surrounding me and hug of nature from all around felt exciting and a bit unnerving and, despite the cold, quite fun!

The Final Ascent

Our day started at an ungodly hour of 4.30AM. Hot tea and biscuits was given to us in the tent which awakened us. We freshened up with wipes and a tinny amount of our warm drinking water and then put on our trekking gear – layers, boots, hats, gloves and headlamps. After packing up our sleeping bags and organizing the one we were going to carry, we had a quick breakfast of toast and porridge standing in the kitchen tent. A quick check of equipment later, we were ready to start.

Day 2

The 2nd day of our trek started officially at 6AM. We set off walking in dark with our headlamps on and our walking sticks for aid, over slippery, frozen ground. The guides showed us the route but told us that we should all go at our own pace, stop when needed and pick up pace if we felt like it.

Over the rocky, mountain terrain we walked on, through trees, up boulders, across frozen streams as day gradually dawned around us. We stopped when we were totally out of breath, had water and sweets for sustenance and carried on. It was enervating and such a rush!

As we climbed, we started to encounter snow on the ground, a little scattered here and there on the sides and then ultimately the whole ground was snow covered. Breathing became harder as we moved to the rare air of higher altitudes. We had to pace ourselves.

We traveled via Khullara and reached Khullara Top mid-morning at around 9AM. Here we had a small rest, refreshed ourselves and put on our shoe protectors because we were about to start serious tramping through snow after this. Till now, we were going up a gradual ascent but from hereon started a pretty steep ascent over snow to our final destination.

Walking through snow over steep slopes, S-curved ridges, brambles etc. was hard. The snow was deep so we always had to test the ground by poking our stick and checking that it was solid enough for us to walk on and only then should we step forward. Once we were through the trees and on higher elevation, the entire mountain landscape opened up behind us – the dazzling peaks and a slightly clouded sky.

Never, not one part, not at any point did it ever feel boring or monotonous. Each step was a challenge, each foot forward was a risk taken towards our ultimate goal. Ofcourse we stopped for photos, water, small rest to catch our breaths. And so it went on till we reached our peak – Kuari Pass at an altitude of 12500ft.

We summitted at 10:30AM in the morning. And may I say, I was the first one to reach the top – yay me! I soaked in the feeling of having reached the top, that sense of achievement, that absolute joy and finally the utter wonderment of having that sheer natural beauty in front of me.

Kuari Pass!!

A Panorama Unlike Any Other

It was unbelievably windy and cold at the top. But that all faded when we beheld the view in front of us. The valley stretched out between the ranges and the mountain peaks right up in our faces, all separated by the pass we stood on – Kuari Pass.

Unfortunately, the weather had turned quite cloudy by this time and we were able to witness only a few peaks. Mainly, the Dronagiri behind us, to our left the Pangarchulla peak and mostly hidden behind the clouds – the Neel Kanth. Despite this, the panoramic view was something to be remembered forever, it was a view unlike any ever seen.

At The Top

The Descent

Having spent a half an hour or thereabouts on the pass, it was time to start our descent to the other side to our day’s camp. After walking a couple of minutes, we found some boulders shielded from the extreme wind and we sat to have our packed lunch.

The descent was via a ridge to our Tali camp. This was the most adventurous part of our trek where it always felt one slip and down we would go. As we started our walk over the ridge – sharp drops on each side of us – it started to rain. We had to walk carefully on the path because it soon became slippery. The danger added a level of exhilaration and excitement to this part of the trek. Hearts beating fast, heads bent against the rain, we forged on ahead.

After some-time the rain converted to snow and with the wind blowing sideways it struck our faces, settled on our clothes and bags. It was fascinating to see the various shapes and sizes of the snowflakes as they floated by. But we had to concentrate on the path, on not slipping and sticking to the trail.

Finally, at around 2PM in the afternoon, we made it to Tali Forest, where our camp for was setup among the trees for the day.

Snowing on descent

Day 2 Summary:

From/To: Gulling to Tali via Kuari Paas

Distance: 13 kms.

Altitude: 9000ft. to 12500ft and back to 11000ft

Walking Time: 8 hours

Peaks: Dronagiri, Pangarchulla

Final part of the trek coming up in Part 3.

This post was written as part of Blogchatter’s Cause A Chatter campaign – “Nature Talks”; how I was at the heart of nature and one with it.

Paradise On Earth – Winter Kuari Pass Trek

Himalayas, India, Travel, Uttarakhand / By / October 26, 2021

Heaven on earth. This is the only term to describe the Himalayas and its impeccable beauty. To be up close to these gorgeous mountains, in the very lap of pure, unadulterated nature is a blessing. To be able to witness those views from the top is an award which you get for your hard work to reach there. Such were my feelings on my first ever mountain trek – the Kuari Pass Trek.

Auspicious Beginnings

The pre-trek part of the trip saw us – my husband and myself – traveling from Mumbai to the holy city of Rishikesh, Uttarakhand. Our hotel was right beside the river – the Holy Ganges – and just 2 doors away from the Laxmanjhula. Breakfast was hot kachoris and sabji, with tea on the balcony with a view of the Ganga and the Laxmanjhula bridge. Could there have been a better start to a trip?

After breakfast, we went for a walk by the river, over the bridge and onto the other side towards the Ramjhula. A pleasant walk with some window shopping or actually, 1 piece of shopping – I bought a woollen hat. That hat turned out to be my savior on the trek.

The walk left us famished and we had lunch at this cute café. Evening saw us meeting up with our con-conspirators i.e. our co-trekkers. We reacquainted ourselves – food, adda and laughter – and discussed the final minutiae of our trek.

Raring To Go

Early next morning – 5:45AM!! – we 4 trekkers started from Rishikesh by car for Joshimath which would be our main starting point of trek as well as the place for collection of supplies. With stops for tea and lunch, we reached Joshimath at about 6PM to icy cold weather. Temperatures were down to 9°C!

Joshimath is a bustling town in Uttarakhand which serves as the starting point for many a trek or trip to the upper Himalayas, including pilgrimages. In itself, it is a pretty town with its mountainous backdrop and religious afflictions as several temples of fame are located here.

We took a walk about town, imbibing the cold and compensating by having hot tea and biscuits! We met our guide for the trek who gave us instructions, timings and some tips. After organizing our trekking bags for the next day, we turned in early that night.

Incredible India!

Trek starts - The Initial Ascent

Next morning, though the 3rd day of our trip, was our 1st day of trek. Excited, we were ready and raring to go at 9.30AM. We were to travel a short distance by car to Dhak, point zero of our trek. Before that, we made a stop to collect all supplies which were to last all of us for the next 3 days. Ration, fuel, water, utensils, stoves, sleeping bags, tents.

Our trek was organized by Himalaya Trekkers, a small but experienced group who took care of all our trekking needs from point to point (Joshimath to Joshimath).

Day 1

At 10:30AM, we officially started our trek from Dhak (~ 6100ft).

We dismounted the car and strapped on our bags while our equipment – that we had picked up earlier – was loaded on to 2 mules who would carry it to the day’s campsite. The four of us plus our two guides – second one joined us at Dhak – took off walking on a small trail through the village of Dhak.

As we climbed, the mountain vista slowly opened up below us and enjoyed the lovely sights. After about an hour, we stopped for a rest and to refill our water bottles in tiny village of Tugasi (~7000ft). This would be our last encounter with villages or residents – after this it would be the mountains and us, nature embracing us.

Lunch was a packed one – roti, sabji, a fruit, a chocolate bar and juice – sitting on a rocky outcrop on a trail to higher altitude. A drink of water and we set off again. We were able to gradually see and recognize peaks in the distance. The feeling that we were closer to them was something never felt before. The final leg of that day’s trekking ended at our campsite – Gulling, at an altitude of 9000ft. We had walked for 3 hours that day and covered a distance of about 7kms.

We were greeted by an astoundingly beautiful campsite on the edge of the mountain with a view to die for. Dronagiri, Nanda Devi, and Hathi Ghoda peaks were right in front of us – an unimpeded view against a sparklingly clear sky!

The trekkers

Camping

Our campsite was already set-up by our camping crew helpers; 2 tents for the 4 of us, one loo tent, one kitchen tent. The kitchen tent was our saviour for these 3 days, only place warm enough to thaw us down a little in the freezing cold weather. It also served us king’s feasts for every meal. That evening it was piping hot coffee and pakodas!

We then had a small trekking lesson just before that – our guide showed us how to put on shoe protectors and spikes for snow trekking. Then, we were given instructions on camping rules –

  • Do not waste water (no brushing, just a quick mouth wash)
  • How to use the loo tent (hole’s been dug, do your thing and the use the shovel to cover it with dirt)
  • How to use your sleeping bags (pack them up the next day)
  • Collect your trash so they can be disposed off properly.
Me!! Enjoying sunshine @ Camp Gulling

I am doing my bit towards conservation of nature by raising awareness through this post via Blogchatter’s Cause A Chatter campaign.

Before sunset, we did a bit of exploring around the mountainside, taking in the clean, fresh air and the wonderful ambience that surrounded us and then watched the sun go down in between those gorgeous peaks.

Dinner was hot food – rotis, daal, sabji, sweets – in the warm tent. We chitchatted and walked about the small campsite in the moonlight but in the end the cold got us – it was impossible to just stand in that cold. We retired early as we had a very very early start the next day. Our final ascent to the peak.

Coming up in Part 2 , our final ascent and in Part 3, our last day of returning to base.

Day 1 Summary:

From/To: Dhak to Gulling

Distance: 6-7 kms.

Altitude: 6100ft. to 9000ft.

Walking Time: 3 hours

Peaks: Dronagiri, Nanda Devi, Hathi Ghoda

Us! @ Camp Gulling

One Day in Cork, Ireland

Cork, Travel / By / September 13, 2021

Cork was a flying visit 2 years ago when I accompanied my husband on his then-annual work trip to London. From there, he had a 1-day site visit to Cork and I happily tagged along because of course I wanted to see a bit of Ireland. While I did not get to see the famous cliffs which Northern Ireland is famous for, I got to see archetypal Irish township filled with history and culture.

Literally Jumping Into A Plane

Despite us reaching Stansted airport in advance, security check took aeons and by the time we were done they were calling for final boarding. We literally ran to the boarding gate and saw that there was no one to guide us. At a loss on where to go, we pushed open the door next to the boarding gate number and found ourselves on the tarmac!! We ran over the tarmac towards the correct airlines plane a few meters ahead of us and saw that again there wasn’t a single soul! On spotting a lone air hostess just inside the plane door, we shouted up from the tarmac, “Is this going to Cork?” and she nodded. We climbed up the stairs into the plane and she shut the door behind us. It felt so surreal! It was like getting on a bus, I have never had such an experience.

Tip: Arrive with lots of time in hand if you’re travelling via Stansted.  

Cork at Night

We arrived in Cork late evening and after checking in to the hotel, we ventured out to the city centre. Wrapped up in our coats in the pleasantly chilly weather, we enjoyed a stroll along the river – River Lee. With the lit-up streets lining the dark river, it was a pretty sight indeed.

Cork city centre is an island positioned between two channels of the River Lee which meet downstream at the eastern end of the city centre, where the quays and docks along the river lead outwards towards Lough Mahon and Cork Harbour, one of the largest natural harbours in the world. (Source: Wikipedia)

At night, all the shops were closed but the eateries were open, so we entered one for our dinner. Alas! it turns out that in majority of the restaurants, the kitchen closes by 6.30PM and only the bar remains open till about 2AM! Famished, we walked around for a while before we chanced upon a small pizza place to have one of the last remaining ones available – on the brink of time as the place was about to close.

Tip: Remember to get your dinner done in the early evening; we learnt this to our cost.

The Famous English Market

Next day, I started nice and early to start my 1-day tour of Cork City. I had planned my day quite well but as they say, the best laid plans…

I took a bus into town to my first stop of the day – the famous English Market. The English Market covers a huge area and is filled with all kinds of produce you can imagine, especially Irish specialties like Tripe and Drisheen, Spiced Beef, Kidneys and Skirts. There is also a huge fish and seafood section which boggled my mind; half of them I didn’t even know the name of. What attracted me most though, was the local cheeses available – innumerable delicious looking cheeses on display made me salivate.

The English Market has been trading since 1788 and has survived the Famine, wars, fire, revolutions and economic decline. The origins of the building date back to 1610 but the current building is from 1786. One of the reasons why the market came into focus in recent times was the visit of HM Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip in 2011, where Pat O’ Connell, a fishmonger, cracked a joke about an ugly monkfish which he had nicknamed as “the mother-in-law fish”, causing the Queen to erupt in laughter. The incident and that photo became famous very quickly and to this day that photo is up on the wall at the seafood section.

Walking Tour

One of the best ways to know Cork City is to take a walking tour. I took a public walking tour organized by Cork City Walk Tours (http://corkcitywalks.eu/). Bart was a lovely and knowledgeable guide who took us through the 2-hour walking tour.

Starting at the Fr. Matthew statue, Bart explained how the downtown district road was constructed to imitate the hull of a ship – an ode to its seafaring history. On the leisurely walk, I got to experience the compact 800 year old city, stroll the lanes of the 18th century Huguenot Quarter and gaze with wonder at Burges’s magnificent French Neo-Gothic cathedral. We also popped in to the Crawford Art Gallery, where we enjoyed the current exhibition and some permanent pieces.

It was an informative and thoroughly enjoyable tour, at the end of which Bart suggested a few choices of where to have lunch. I took his advised and had lunch at this quirky pharmacy turned restaurant – Arthur Mayne’s Pharmacy. Keeping the old décor of a pharmacy, it had a rustic feel and delicious food.

Elizabeth Fort

Post lunch, I set out exploring on my own, again walking. My first stop was Elizabeth Fort located on Barrack Street.

It’s a 17th century star-shaped fort which was built in the aftermath of the Battle of Kinsale held in 1601. It is situated on elevated ground and its main purpose was to protect the walled Cork City below. During its lifetime, it has been used as a military barrack, a convict depot for transportation of women prisoners, food depot during the Great Famine, an RIC station and until 2013 as a Garda station.

Throughout the fort there are evidences and displays which pay tribute to all the various functions which it has served as. Its location atop the hill leads to some supremely pretty panoramic view of Cork city.

Tip: Admission is free but guided tours are payable at €3 pax., starting at 1pm each day.

St. Fin Barre’s Cathedral

After my lovely time at Elizabeth Fort, I walked to my next destination – St. Fin Barre’s Cathedral. The cathedral was designed by William Burges and consecrated in 1870. It lies on a site where Christian worship has been offered since the 7th century.

Unfortunately, this is where my plan started to unravel. Upon reaching the cathedral, I saw that it was closed so I thought I would wait for a while for it to open back up. Meanwhile I spotted the Serenity Circle Labyrinth which is to be walked upon in prayer and meditation. I did the full circle and found it calming and rejuvenating.

Since my final destination was approaching its closing hours, I could not wait anymore to enter the cathedral, so I admired it from outside, took photos and left for Shandon Quarters. When I rounded the street, I realized to my dismay that I had actually been at the back of the cathedral and it, in fact, had been open all this time!! I chose not to enter and carried on to my next stop of the day.

Fitzgerald Park and Shaky Bridge

To reach Shandon Tower, I took the route via Fitzgerald’s Park. It is Cork’s premiere public park and contains a wide range of flora – mature trees, rose garden, floral bedding and a pond dating back to the Industrial Exhibition.

I simply passed through in a casual stroll and admired the fall colours of the trees lining the paths and the gardens. From the park, I walked on to the Shaky Bridge to reach the north side of the city.

Inaugurated in 1927, it is the only suspension bridge in Cork City. The term “Shaky Bridge” is derived from the movement of the platform when running or jumping on the bridge. Ofcourse I had to walk over it fast to check the authenticity! It did shake, even if lightly.

Missing Shandon Bells, but Butter Museum!

The walk to the Shandon Bells was long and cold and I was exhausted by the time I reached. But to my utter dismay, I saw that the final entry to the church and bells had closed just 2-3 minutes ago!! I felt like crying because this was something I had dearly wanted to see. If only I had walked faster, if only I hadn’t loitered so much in the park, etc. etc. If onlys wouldn’t bring back time so I checked my tourist map to see what else I could do. I landed upon a very interesting place – A Butter Museum!

Situated in the Shandon Quarter itself, the Butter Museum offers a glimpse into the past when the area was the world’s largest butter market. Butter is the signature food of Ireland and the museum offers an insight into Ireland’s most successful food export.

On entering, there is an informative video about how butter was buried in a bog to the 19th century Cork Butter Exchange to the global success of the modern Irish dairy industry. The Museum is small but that means I got to explore it all – the various tools and machineries used for butter churning used throughout the ages, the techniques used, the storage mediums and a lot more about the history of butter.

Tip: Entry is €4 but arrive well in time to be able to view one of their butter churning demonstrations; I missed it due to the late hour of the day. For more information, visit their website.

A Final Cheers!

Despite there being few upsets in my plan, I was happy with my day spent in Cork and I headed back to the hotel in a good state of mind. We had to leave that evening to get back to London but before that, we had one last mug of chilled beer which the Irish love – Guinness.

What to do if you have more time in hand

If you had more than one day in hand in Cork, below is a list of must-visit attractions in Cork.

  • Cork City Gaol – It is said original prisoner writing can be seen on the cell walls!
  • Shandon Bells – It houses the Four Faced Liar – the 4 faces show different times! – and a gold fish at the top. You can ring the bells – in a tune of your choice – and climb the tower.
  • University College Cork – Includes Ogam Stones collection – largest in Ireland, the Honan Chapel with beautiful mosaic floor and stained-glass windows.
  • Blarney Castle and Grounds – Situated 8kms. From Cork, this would have to be day trip. Its stone is said to have the power of awarding eloquence to those who kiss it!

Things to know about Cork before you visit

  1. Currency used is Euros (€) so be prepared especially if you’re traveling from London it may be a tiny shock.
  2. Kitchens close by 6.30PM so be sure to have your dinner by then (or atleast order it). Bar will be open till well afterwards.
  3. Buses generally do not ply in late evening – atleast I did not see any.
  4. Be on time as per brochures/websites to all your attractions.

Visiting the Alipore Zoo, Kolkata

Environment, India, Kolkata, Travel / By / August 29, 2021

A few days ago, my cousin shared photos of my 1 ½ year old niece’s outing to the Hyderabad Zoo (Nehru Park). This brought back pleasant memories of the numerous times in my childhood when our whole family used to visit the Alipore Zoo in Kolkata. Times and circumstances change, but memories and experiences such as these never fade. A trip to the zoo is a must-do for toddlers, pre-tweens and tweens.

Childhood Memories – Picnic!

As a child, every year, my parents and I, along with my entire extended family – uncles, aunts, cousins – used to visit the zoo either on the New Year or Christmas Day, without fail. Despite going there so many times we, my cousins & I, never got tired of the annual trip. In fact, we really looked forward to it.

We used to carry homecooked food, plates, cutlery, blankets, and playing items like badminton racquets, shuttle corks, flying discs – a veritable picnic! Waking up early, packing all the stuff, getting dressed – everything was part of the fun. On reaching, spreading out the blanket under a shady tree and unloading our goodies – it was all so exciting. Then came the best part – actually going around the zoo and watching the animals!

Alipore Zoological Garden - Then

The Alipore Zoological Garden or, as we called it, the Alipore Zoo was filled with animals of abundant species, animals of all shapes and sizes. There were tigers, lions, leopards, hyenas, jackals on the one hand, and hippos, rhinos, and elephants on the other. Then there were giraffes, deer, zebras, chimps along with birds and reptiles!

The tigers were within an open enclosure with a cave to go into. We used to wait for them to come out and roam so we could catch a glimpse. The hippos too were in their own water enclosure where they had a gala time splashing around – or so it seemed to me at that age. The elephants were chained in an open space unfortunately, but we used to watch them being bathed and fed by their mahouts.

I used to love the special reptile house – it seemed to be dark and mysterious to me. Various species of crocodiles, snakes etc. were housed there. This is ironic because I’m deadly afraid of reptiles now.

There were oodles of park space with huge trees to provide shade as well as open space to play stuff like badminton etc. It was a nurturing environment.

The Zoo & Animals - Today

Today, the zoo has been revamped and smartened up. What some used to consider crusty old enclosure, park space, buildings etc. have been upgraded. There’s a lake and a restaurant. Many new species of animals have been brought in; there is now an aquarium, an aviary, better and more enclosures to create natural habitats for the animals. The basic structure of the zoo has remained the same but it’s an upgraded experience now which I’m sure children will love.

Inaugurated in 1875, the zoo today covers 46.5 acres of land and is home to over 1200 animals spread over 108 species. It draws 3 million visitors annually. (Source: Wikipedia)

Source of images: Alipore Zoo official website

Conservation of Animals

The Zoo has undertaken various programs for the conservation of animals and for their general well-being and maintenance. 5 ways in which the Alipore Zoological Garden is helping in maintaining the animal ecosystem:

    • Animal Adoption – Individuals or institutions can “adopt” certain animals. The money paid for the adoption goes towards care of the animals. This develops a love of animals among the people.
    • Zoo Education – Various events are organized to create awareness among humans and to educate them on the need for preservation of nature’s beings.
    • Research – There are research conducted on animal behavior to help understand them and thus take care of them in a better manner.
    • Conservation Breeding – This is done to conserve a particular breed or species and to prevent them from dying out.
    • Rescue & Rehabilitation – To take in injured animals and help set up a home for them to recuperate.

What We Can Do

In our turn, we can take some steps to help the environment:

  • Keep the zoo gardens and park clean – Pick up rubbish after you have had your picnic and throw them in designated bins.
  • Do not disturb the animals – Let us not play loud music, tease & catcall at them or try to feed them. Let them be in their home in peace.
  • Let’s not use plastic – Help preserve the environment that is home to these animals by being environment friendly.

I am doing my bit by raising awareness through this post via Blogchatter’s Cause A Chatter campaign.

Fun & Learning for Kids

Not only is a visit to the zoo a fun outing for kids, it is also a learning experience – to educate them on various living beings, recognizing different animals and to be aware of the environment. I think it is a must visit for every child.

Details To Know For A Visit

  1. Timings: The Zoo is open on all days except Thursdays. During the Xmas holidays, it is open on all days. Operating hours are 9 AM – 5 PM.
  2. Ticket Prices: Rs. 5 for kids upto 5 years and Rs. 30 for others.
  3. Location: 2 No. Alipore Road, Kolkata 700 027, West Bengal, India
  4. Do’s & Don’ts: Check them here.

Book Review: Gangster on The Run

Books / By / August 16, 2021

I hardly ever – actually only twice before – read non-fiction books. In fact, of the two I have read so far, I could complete only one and the other one’s still at 20%. That’s why when I was offered to review this book, I was a bit skeptical. However, Gangster on the Run by Puja Changoiwala was a good read and for most part help me in rapt attention.

About the Book

This is “the true story of a reformed criminal”. It is the astonishing tale of an underworld ganglord and a raging alcoholic who left behind his past and emerged victorious to become an ultra-marathoner. From the little boy who feared demons to the feared extortionist and hitman to the man who outran those demons – the book covers the various facets of the life of Rahul Ramakant Jadhav in detail.

The Story of The Gangster “Bhiku Mhatre”

Born in Maharashtra’s Dombivli in the outskirts of the then-Bombay, Rahul loved to draw and paint and write in his diary as a young boy. He was the youngest of 3 siblings in a family of very limited means. The poverty angered him; he couldn’t understand how they always had second-hand things despite his father working so hard. He decided at a very tender age that he would never be the same – he would get or take what he desired.

The young Rahul enjoyed history about warrior lords like Shivaji and Hitler – he adored the fact that their legacies lived beyond their lifetime be it fame or infamy. He too wanted to be remembered. During the 1980s, when Bombay was ruled by the underworld, Rahul followed their tales closely via newspapers and neighborhood gossip; he found their escapades, the battles, the bloodshed to be very thrilling! Thus was born the idea of a criminal life and from this ideology emerged the gangster who fashioned himself as “Bhiku Mhatre” (from the famous Bollywood movie ‘Satya’).

From thereon began the story of Bhiku bhai who slowly rose through the ranks of the underworld through his intelligence, his daring and his knack of collecting friends and followers. He introduced and used VoIP calls to avoid detection, he used the internet to research for numbers of intended extortion victims. He soon became the right-hand man of well-known don Jaidev Reddy. His arrest in 2007 changed everything.

The Story of the Ultra Marathoner Rahul Jadhav

After his arrest, his boss “Anna”, whom he thought of as a brother, abandoned him. At that time he was also a serial alcoholic, barely able to function without his drink. He was accused of multiple crimes across various jurisdictions of Mumbai and Thane; he was beaten and tortured, he suffered alcohol withdrawal reactions and reached his lowest of low.

Gradually he recovered and used his intelligence to fight his own cases and defend himself against all accusations. He was acquitted from some and then released on bail for the others. But after his release he descended into depression as he went back to his alcoholic ways. He went into de-addiction 6 times until he finally conquered his demons and went on to channel his energy and efforts to that of running and participating in marathons.

He turned his life around at the age of the age of 40, he earned & kept a job, married, gave de-addiction counselling and now aims to shatter the national stadium record some day. His greatest achievement to date is his run from Mumbai to Delhi in a fortnight where he covered a distance of about 1400kms (!!) in January 2019.

Rating

4.5 stars

I love how this book chronicles the life of Rahul Jadhav very faithfully, from his childhood to his teenage days to his entrance and then rise in the world of organized crime. The chapters are broken up very well and the style of writing is clean and very detail oriented. In between the story, there are excerpts from newspapers or FIRs in words of the actual event incidence.

The book is very interesting from the aspects of how the underworld operates to how the Indian judicial system operates. It’s an eye-opener.

It is an inspiring story of how one can change and reinvent oneself if given a second chance. Rahul fought for his second chance because of his family who stood by him through thick and thin and helped him out in every way to get that second chance at life.

The only small criticism I have is that, I would have loved to hear more about his journey as the marathoner, his mind’s evolution from utter darkness to a world of dreams and happiness.

Praise for the Book

“A thrilling, unputdownable read from a prolific journalist” – Rakesh Maria, former chief, Maharastra ATS and former Commissioner of Police, Mumbai

“A must-read for true-crime lovers” – Ravi Subramanian, bestselling author

“In this thoroughly enthralling read, Puja provides an insider’s view of the underworld in a kaleidoscopic testimony of crime and punishment, survival and redemption” – Siddharth Roy Kapur, film producer

About The Author

Puja Changoiwala is an award winning journalist and the author of the critically acclaimed true-crime book, The Front Page Murders: Inside the Serial Killings That Shocked India. As a journalist, she writes about the intersections of gender, crime, social justice, human rights and technology.

Rahul Jadhav at age 43

This post was written as part of Blogchatter Half Marathon and it’s Book Review Program.

3 Hours in San Antonio, Texas

San Antonio, Travel, USA / By / August 15, 2021

San Antonio is a city rooted deep in history. It is one of the most populous cities in Texas and it’s oldest municipality. It was founded as a Spanish mission and colonial outpost in 1718 and became the first chartered civil settlement in Texas in 1731.

Located 50 miles (80 kms.) from the city of San Marcos, San Antonio is less than an hour’s drive from the former. That’s how I winded up with a mini trip to San Antonio – from San Marcos, which is where my company’s factory is situated. We were a group of 5 visiting from India. After a morning tour and training at the factory, our colleague offered to drive and show us around San Antonio. We gladly accepted.

The Alamo

We had a pleasant drive to San Antonio. Our first stop was The Alamo – the most famous attraction in San Antonio and the basis of the city’s foundation. Originally named San Antonio de Valero, it served as home to Spanish missionaries and Indian converts for more than 70 years.

The Alamo is called “The Cradle of Texas Liberty”. This is because it served as a secure fortress during Texas’ war of independence from Mexico in 1836. The Texan soldiers resisted the 12-day siege before being overpowered; however the “Battle of The Alamo” became a symbol of resistance for the Texans and their fight for independence.

There is a 17 minute film depicting 300 years’ Alamo history which plays in the Long Barrack theater and the Alamo Arbor throughout the day. It is highly interesting a must watch for all! The main church is very beautiful, and signs of battle are preserved – bullets in the wall, the cannons etc. There is also an exhibition museum near the theater which includes memorabilia from the war and the overall history of the place. Discovering the history of the Alamo and being inside the church which served as a battle fortress is awe-inspiring.

Tip: Entrance is free but it requires a reservation. Head here for the timed tickets. We had visited on a weekday afternoon so we got a reservation at the site itself.

Tip: There are guided tours and experiences available; check them out here. We did not opt for these as we simply explored on our own and the film was quite informative.

Photography is not allowed inside but we took a few outside; also do not touch the walls or the exhibits and keep your phone on silent and refrain from using it.

The San Antonio River Walk

The other most famous attraction in San Antonio is the River Walk and that’s where we headed next. It’s a 5-minute walk from the Alamo to the Riverwalk.

The River Walk is basically a special pedestrian street flanking either side of the San Antonio River. The winding river loops back on itself. The two sides of the street are interconnected by bridges at various points. The streets are lined with a multitude of shops, restaurants, hotels etc.

Robert H. H. Hugman, a young architect, designed the concept of winding pathways and bridges flanking the river as a beautiful solution to harnessing the river running through downtown. It also managed heavy seasonal rains, saving both lives and dollars. Find more about the River Walk’s history here.

We took a walk along the river, sometimes crossing over from one side to the other. Strolling along the River Walk was an enjoyable experience; the vibe of the place is exuberant and buzzing with activity. We then sat down to an al-fresco lunch at a Mexican restaurant where I had yummy melt-in-the-mouth enchiladas. The food scene on the River Walk is diverse and one has so many dazzling options to choose from.

San Antonio River Walk

Boat Ride

After lunch, we took a boat ride on the river. With my stomach pleasantly full, a light breeze and the lazy bobbing motion of the boat on the water almost lulled me to sleep but our colleague was pointing out interesting hotel facades and reciting some facts about the place so I listened with attention.

Tip: I’m told there are events held there, floats on the river to celebrate occasions and a lot more. If you plan your visit to coincide with these, it all looks really amazing. Check out more here.

Short and Sweet

The short trip with some window shopping at Rivercenter where I was almost tempted to buy some sweets but refrained due to time lack. The short 3-hour trip had it all – history, fun, vibrant culture and delicious food! It’s a memory which brings a smile to my face.

This post was written as part of Blogchatter Half Marathon.

Views of the New York Skyline

New York, Travel, USA / By / August 29, 2021

New York is glamorous, effervescent, opalescent, and plain, simple fun! It’s busy, fast-paced and expensive sure, but as tourist these did not strike me as negative factors. I was there was 2 days and I wanted to just enjoy the kaleidoscopic New York which I had seen in movies and which I had always dreamed of experiencing one day.

I will write a post – maybe several – about my New York trip and the must-do things, soon. Today, I bring forward the views of New York’s skyline – as seen from various vantage points.

From the water

From the top decks

From the Empire State Building Observation Deck

From top of the Rockefeller Center - Top of The Rock

off-the-beaten track view

NYC a.k.a New York City at its best – as seen through my eyes.

This post was written as part of Blogchatter Half Marathon.

Mumbai – A Photo Portrait

India, Maharashtra, Mumbai, Travel / By / August 12, 2021

Mumbai is my current place of residence. I shifted here few years ago from my hometown Kolkata for work reasons. Over the years, this city has made its way into my heart and totally captured it. It’s vibrancy, its melting-pot culture, its never-sleep nature – all these are something I love. There are bad points – the traffic, the pollution, the population – and boy, do they bug me at times but everything has pros and cons and for me even the cons make up part of what Mumbai is.

So here’s presenting a portrait of the Mumbai as I have seen it over the years.

The infamous Mumbai rains…

This post was written as part of Blogchatter Half Marathon.

My Perfect Trip to Goa

Goa, India, Maharashtra, Travel / By / August 11, 2021

Goa is a tourist destination which is known all around the world as the ultimate party destination in India. Located on the shores of the Arabian Sea in the state of Maharashtra (western India), Goa is one of the must-visit places for people outside and inside India.

Even though Goa is known for its party scene, its nightlife and its Portuguese-influenced culture, for me the idea of a perfect vacation to Goa was always to relax on the beach, hang out with friends and maybe visit a church. Few years ago, I took a weekend year-end trip to Goa and it turned out to be the ideal vacation for me.

Reaching Goa

Since I didn’t want to be part of the party scene, I chose a beach in the South of Goa – Palolem. Getting there was almost an adventure. It started with a 12-hour bus ride from Mumbai at 9pm, followed by another bus from Panjim and ending with a final rickshaw ride to the hotel. The 1st bus from Sion to Panjim was a semi-sleeper with the AC on full blast and a midnight stop at a dhaba for dinner. Exhausted and bleary-eyed, we got on to the next local bus to Palolem and was treated to a bumpy, jerky ride. We were bone-tired by the time we reached.

Tip: To book buses, the best app/website is Redbus.  The other option is to drive – it is a 10 hour drive and is much more pleasant I’m told. Our choice was dictated by the lack of car and not enough budget to rent one.

Hitting the Beach

A quick shower and a mini nap later we were as good as new and ready to hit the beach. The hotel was a 2-minute walk from the beach. Entering the beach late afternoon, we were greeted with clear blue waters, a white sandy beach and a pleasantly cool weather, all bathed in the glow of the about-to-set sun. Palolem is one of the most beautiful beaches in Goa and should be a must-visit on anyone’s Goa trip.

We walked about the beach, imbibing in the atmosphere of laid-back casualness, and letting the stresses of everyday life ebb away. And when it was time, we watched a gorgeous sunset with a drink in hand and a calm mind. Sunset at the beach is one of my favorite sights ever!

Ushering in the New Year

That night, on New Year’s Eve, we enjoyed dinner at one of the many beachside cafes, sitting alfresco at this cutely decorated table on the beach. I don’t even remember the exact meal but the whole buzzing vibe at the beach – candles, some fireworks, some performances – made it a delicious meal. We had a drink in hand, there was muted lighting from the lamp and the sound of rushing water against the inky darkness and my feet were buried in the soft sand – this was how we welcomed the new year. Could it be more perfect?!!

Doing Nothing

The next 2 days were spent doing absolutely nothing! Days on the beach, with just a cooling drink and a book lying on shaded chaise loungers on the beach and the brilliant sun sparkling down on the turquoise waters. Sometimes we had a bite to eat, sometimes we took a stroll around to do some people watching and sometimes to just be near the ocean. This was paradise!

Shopping & Sightseeing

Evenings were dedicated to roaming the streets of this quaint township, exploring shops, looking around the treasures on offer. I bought a few summer dresses, some pretty accessories and the obligatory magnet.

Tip: There are myriads of things on sale, so be sure to hunt around for your perfect gift and do haggle to get the right price.

We did do a little bit of sightseeing on the final day when we went into Panjim a little early – before our night-time bus – to do a little sightseeing. We wandered the lanes of mid-town and then went to visit a cathedral. There was a wedding going on and we took a peek inside since we weren’t allowed. But we did chance upon a nativity scene set out in the yard for Christmas. That was lovely.

A Rough End Does Not Take Away the Perfection

The journey back was as bad as the one coming in, probably worse. The bus played a movie at super loud volumes – did not lower even at our request. This added on to my claustrophobic feeling and motion sickness and I was feeling pretty lousy, not being able to settle in and catch a wink. Few hours into the bus ride, I threw up my dinner in a polybag. Thankfully, that seemed to cure my uneasiness and I could sleep for the last few hours of the ride.

Even though the trip seemed to end on a sour note, this did not detract anything from my dream trip to Goa and I returned home with a lighter, happier heart.

This post was written as part of Blogchatter Half Marathon.