Europe

2023 Travel Recap: 5 destinations, 2 continents

Europe, Travel / By / January 14, 2024

Its the new year. And I am starting as I mean to go on. The last year of my blog was all fits and starts but this year I aim to be regular and following a calendar. 

To start myself off, here’s a recap of my year – travel wise. It was an adventurous year and the overview is as colorful as possible!

Starting off in Style

The year started with a trip – in Paris. Eiffel Tower, Arc De Triomphe and the Montmartre – these were my sights for the first couple of days of 2023. The weather mostly co-operated and being there with my family was such a good time! While I saw some beautiful sites and had a great time with my family, Paris disillusioned me in some respects. Nevertheless, it was still worth a year end-new year trip. Read about it here.

The water beckons...

It was April and The Netherlands was still cold (atleast I felt so, being from a tropical country), so we wanted to escape to somewhere warm. Thus was arranged a trip to Albufeira, Portugal. Hot days, intensely blue waters and gorgeous craggy cliffs – what an absolutely invigorating vacation.

The kiddo loved the time-out, running about the beaches and having fun in the hotel playground.

Under The Tuscan Sun

The year’s next trip came up as early as May! Yep, a month after Portugal we were off to Italy. Tuscany greeted us with lush greenery. The weather was a mix of grey and brilliant slightly scorching sunshine but overall really pleasant. Pisa, Siena, Greve and Florence absolutely enchanted me. Such beauty that it leaves you stunned. The food, oh the food was soo good – ravioli, pasta, pizza and oh the desserts were just the stuff of dreams. Everything I ever though my Italian sojourn would be.

Getting to know the "Homeland"

June, July and August were when we enjoyed some of the sights in and around The Netherlands. Getting to know summer in our new homeland was pretty nice.

Rotterdam was an enjoyable day trip. The zoo (Diergaarde Blijdorp) was interesting and the view from the top of the Euromast was fantastic.

Typical Dutch Summer Days

We also tried some quintessential Dutch experiences in the summer.

The Keukenhof gardens: Unimaginable varieties of tulips on full bloom, in a multitude of colours. A pretty, pretty sight!

And, enjoying a barbecue among the greenery!

Brussels in Belgium is a 3-hour drive from the Hague. So that was another day trip we took. It was a intensely sunny day so we checked out just a few sights and mostly relaxed in the shade.

This is how we made the most of summer time. (It’s still not summer if I have to keep jackets at hand, but what do I know?!)

Hues of Cote d'Azur

Then came September and we were off to the truly sunny climes of the South of France – Marseille. The sun was a bit extreme actually but none of that mattered because this port town was utterly delightful. History and nature existed in perfect harmony. The highlight of the trip though was the boat ride to The Calanques. Amazing!

Back to the roots

The final trip of the year was back home to India during festival season. Wherever we are, we try not to miss Durga Puja in Kolkata. Family, friends and food – the trifecta that is the oxygen of existence. It soothed tired minds, mended homesick hearts and recharged the soul for the next year away from all that is familiar.

Wrap up!

It would be an understatement to say the year was interesting and exciting travel wise. I do consider myself luck that I was in a position to take these trips to European cities and enjoy a full week there.

Time to plan for 2024. Happy New Year from Nils!

Meanwhile keep an eye on this space for the detailed posts on the above destinations.

Paris through new eyes

Europe, Paris, Travel / By / August 22, 2023

Part of the 2022-2023 year end trip with family. Read Part 1 here.

We meet again Paris!

Circumstances change viewpoints and traveling partners change itineraries. It’s not some deep philosophical thought, just an observation. This was my second visit to Paris; first one being a solo. While the itinerary was more relaxed because I now had a baby in tow, my perspective towards Paris changed either because the city itself has changed or because of the time of the year I chose to visit it this time.

The itinerary:

As I said, it was a pretty open plan; with only one booking – Eiffel Tower on the 31st of December and that was the grand plan. What we did come up with on the spot suited us so well though.

  • Eiffel Tower
  • Torcadero Pavillion
  • Arc De Triomphe
  • Montmartre
The family @Eiffel Tower

Day 1: NYE @ Eiffel Tower

Last day of year 2022, and we had an appointment with The Iron Lady in the afternoon. Even though we left with plenty of time on hand, with traffic delays and slow-moving buses, we almost missed our tour group! Thankfully we caught them. And then there it was…. The Eiffel Tower!

Yet again, the sheer size of it and the architecture impressed me. So did the views. A 360-degree panoramic view over the city of Paris on New Years Eve. Could it be any better? High up there, the wind pushed me around but learning about the history of the tower and various factoids about the city of love made my day. I will always say, this is a must-do and is definitely not overhyped.

After spending a good couple of hours there, we wrapped up for the day as it was getting dark and much too crowded (I know, I know – we were part of the crowd yes). Getting to the hotel though was quite a challenge as the metros and buses stopped at random stops and declared it as their last one! Being the 31st of December, metro tickets were free but most routes were cut short due to the NYE party at the Arc De Triomphe. So all roads leading to it were closed. Too much hassle.

Still, a nice dinner at a cozy restaurant returned me to my good mood.

Deserted streets

Day 2: Arches and Towers

Happy New Year! It was the first day of 2023 – all bright and sunny! Ahem, it was interspersed with drizzly bits unfortunately. This day and the next would be divide and conquer. My child was a bit sick so we decided to go out in pairs, so someone was always there with him. In the late afternoon, my mother and I went to see the Arc de Triomphe. For both of us, this was the first time seeing it.

How to get to it??

It was a task figuring out how to reach that structure – standing at the junction of a 4-way 2 street crossroads – without any discernible path. Turns out, it is reached via the subway. Tickets to climb the top can be bought at the booth located underground i.e. on the subway but you can book in advance online.

That day, it being New Year, the top was closed but we could visit the arch and study the intricate sculptures on its 4 sides up close. Just standing there and observing the interminable movement of people and cars under the setting sun was a nice time-out.

Next stop: Palais de Chaillot or The Trocadero or more specifically Parvis des droits de l’homme which is the forecourt in between the two wings of the Trocadero. This place gives the perfect viewpoint for the Eiffel Tower and superb for photo ops. We posed with an Eiffel Tower decked up in lights and was glad for this one in a million view.

At night, I dined in with the kid while the others went out for a fun Indian dining experience.

Day 3: Hills And Domes

Rainy day from the offset but that didn’t deter us. Last day in Paris needed to be treated as such. So we headed off early to Montmartre – a hill located in the 18th arrondissement of Paris – and on its peak, the Sacré-Cœur. You have to climb the literal hill partly on foot and partly via cable car/funicular; we chose to go on foot the whole way via the steps. The view was reward enough for the strenuous activity – Paris!

Montmartre is a town with cute houses, quaint cafes and lots of shopping! The Basilica itself is beautiful to look at, presenting a new view from different angles, the inside is interesting with its stained-glass paintings, sculptures and – for this particular time of the year – a Nativity scene! We lit candles in prayer and looked around the cathedral. Don’t forget to look up at the dome!

We did a wee bot of shopping after that (but of course) for cute knick-knacks and treated ourselves to savory crepes and coffee.

Tip: If you have time, let a street artist draw you a portrait in 20 minutes only! Or, explore this colorful, and very charming neighborhood.

Back "home"?

The time flew by and suddenly it was time to get back to real-life. From Gare du Nord station to Rotterdam in 3 hours via Thalys and we were back to our new home away from everything familiar. But we were on a holiday high which carried us through the next few months to help us settle in and call The Netherlands our home properly.

The Best of Zurich in 3 days

Europe, Travel, Zurich / By / August 22, 2023

A vacation – big or small – at the end of the year is a surefire way to get me in the best of moods for the incoming year, refreshing the mind and hitting the reset button on the worries of the bygone year.

I mentioned in my last post how my family and I have moved from India to The Netherlands few months ago. The change has been hard but not as hard as it could have been because my parents accompanied us to help us settle in, especially with an almost-toddler. It was an unparalleled extension of support; I mean, when do we not need our parents, right?

However, we needed a break from all the arrangements one must make when setting up a whole new life in a new country and also, we wanted to spend some time as a family to just “be”. Hence came the idea of a New Year’s trip. We did a bit of discussion on where and how long but logistics and budget aside, we decided we wanted to see Paris and Zurich (touristy much?). Thus was born the 7 day trip of dreams.

Spreading the Christmas cheer...

The Itinerary

With a 1-year-old in tow, sometimes it is really hard to plan, or rather it is hard to follow a plan. It’s important to plan in such a way that we can maximize the highlights of the place we are in but that must be spaced out so as not to tire out the kiddo – this we learnt during this trip. Thankfully, while the Zurich part of our trip was a bit packed, we’d left the 3 days in Paris mostly wide open to instant plans and ideas.

So, here is my 7 days trip to Zurich and Paris with a kid. Read on to know what is a must do and what can be skipped, what can be added to this itinerary which we didn’t have time for.

  • Days 1-3: Zurich
  • Day 4: Zurich to Paris
  • Days 5-7: Paris

Day 1: Zurich – The Lindt Chocolate Factory

This day had only one item on the agenda – The Lindt Chocolate Factory Tour. We arrived in Zurich early afternoon. Since check-in was late afternoon, we couldn’t really use the 2nd half of the day to our advantage, because all the paraphernalia of a kid – setting up, bathing, cooking, feeding – took a significant amount of time. So we arrived in downtown Zurich only in time for a late lunch and a brisk walk around the Limmat River towards our bus stop.

The factory is some way outside the city and takes about 30 minutes by bus from near the Zurich Lake. The factory closes at 7PM, and we only had a 5PM ticket (the only available slot left!) for our tour, so we didn’t want to be late.

Tip: Book your tickets well in advance as they are always in high demand and there are not too many slots available. Price of tickets: CHF 10. Check here for availability and booking.

The factory was an amazing experience. The first portion of the tour (guided audio tour) was in essence a museum, with history on the discovery and evolution of chocolate along with interesting artifacts and trivia. The second part is more interactive – with mock setups of actual factory processes AND the best part – chocolate tasting! Oh, it was divine!! Even if you are not a chocolate lover, you will love this place and it in fact, may convert you!

Tip: It’s mandatory for a car seat in Switzerland – even in an Uber – so make sure to book cabs/cars accordingly if you are travelling with an infant. (I mention this because it’s not “mandatory” everywhere in Europe.)

For dinner that night, we did an Uber Eats delivery to our hotel – the cold and the exhaustion got to us.

Day 2 – Lake Zurich and Rhine Falls with Stein-am-Rhein Tour

Thanks to my parents, who babysat on this 2nd day, my husband and I got a couple of hours’ time on our own which we used to take a trip downtown to stroll around Lake Zurich and have some (very pricey!) breakfast in the area. The bright sunshine sparkled onto the pretty Lake Zurich; it made for some very instagrammable snaps. A walk around the lake was so lovely and invigorating.

The pre-booked tour of Rhine Falls and Stein-am-Rhine started from Sihlquai Coach Parking near Zurich HBf station. Half an hour’s drive took us to the Rhine Falls. The Laufen Castle greeted us in its medieval cuteness. We, however, were eager to see the falls so we zoomed right past, thinking to save it for later. There are 2 ways to get to the falls – glass elevator with a panoramic view of the falls as you go down or, the long way hiking down stairs, which in my opinion is much better because it gives different amazing views every corner you turn.

We opted to walk down the stone steps. It’s a long way down and after every few landings, there are viewing platforms. While the view from the top is pretty special in itself, the scenery as you get closer to the falls is just unreal. The roaring water cascading down into the river is simply spellbinding and frankly quite thrilling because you get to stand really really close to the falls. The whole scenic route down took almost and hour and a half with pauses for photos an ofcourse to enjoy the falls itself. We came back up the glass elevator. However, it left us no time to explore the castle unfortunately.

Tip: Keep atleast 3 hours in hand so you can see it all – the falls and the Laufen Castle, plus some shopping and eating. There is a café and a couple of restaurants.

Stein-Am-Rhine

Stein-am-Rhein is a historic town and a municipality in the canton of Schaffhausen in Switzerland (source: Wikipedia), located on the Rhine river. It is known for its medieval houses with painted fronts. Our next and last stop of the tour was this village which is about 20-25 minutes from the Rhine falls and almost an hour away from Zurich.

A cute little cobblestoned road zigzagged through the houses which have interesting and attractive murals painted on them. The colorful street was filled with Christmas stalls selling all kinds of bakes and fried goodies. We walked through the street noting the architecture and various murals, and then going down to the river to watch the sunset. It was a glorious sight. Waffles and some croissants later, we were back on the bus for our drive back to Zurich.

Happily exhausted, we ended the day with pizza and burgers from a takeaway.

Day 3 – Lindenhof, Zurich highlights and Felsenegg Cable Car and Ferry Tour

Another trip was booked for our 3rd day in Zurich – A Zurich highlights tour along with Felsenegg Cable Car and Ferry ride. The tour started in the afternoon, so once again, we took the morning to take a trip downtown Zurich. But this time our destination was the Lindenhof Hill.

It’s a vantage point a few meters above the main level of the city. It is essentially a park-ground with trees, rugged paths and a fountain. In the 4th century a Roman fort stood on Lindenhof while  in the 9th century the grandson of Charlemagne built a regal palace as place of residence on this very same site (Source: zuerich.com). It was a place for gatherings and apparently, a meeting point for passionate chess players.

Because of the elevation, it provides pretty views over the city of Zurich, especially the Old Town. And that is what we were treated to as we climbed up the hill – yes, literally – to get the sun dappled Limmat River views.

Zurich City Highlights with Felsenegg Cable Car and Ferry Ride Tour

This afternoon, we boarded the bus for another 4-hour tour. This one too started from Sihlquai Coach Parking near Zurich HBf station. In fact, most trips booked via Booking.com or Get Your Guide or even Viator are ultimately locally conducted by Best of Switzerland Tours.

Starting from the city center around Lake Zurich, the bus puttered along the streets of Zurich while our guide pointed out various attractions like the National Museum, the Bahnhofstrasse shopping street, the financial district and the Zürich Opera House. We stopped at a few places for photos or a little bit of walking tour to look more closely at some sights.

We then headed off along the scenic Gold Coast towards Meilen to board the ferry to Adliswil. The whole bus actually boarded the ferry (!!) wherein we got off and headed to the upper deck for some lovely views of the lake. After the 10-minute ferry ride, the bus climbed steadily over the hilly roads of Adliswil towards Felsenegg mountain. Final leg of the journey was the cable car ride to the top of Felsenegg and then a short hike to the actual top. And oh wow, the panoramic views from up there were so pretty. At the top we had snacks and coffee at the only café there – the Felsenegg Café.

Refreshed, we made the journey back to our starting point – the coach terminus – by road. I thoroughly enjoyed this half day tour which had a bit of everything; from hiking, to ferry to cable cars!

Fondue!

I always google dishes that are a must eat at any new place – and I got to know that Zurich was famous for its fondue and luxembergeril (which are basically mini macaroons). That last night’s dinner was cheese fondue at the Swiss Chuchi restaurant and in the morning we had bought some macaroons and eclairs at the famous Sprungli Confiserie. While the fondue was very good, it was pretty expensive and to our shock came only with additional bread pieces to dip. We ordered some fried chicken to dip in as well but those weren’t very tasty (no seasoning). The restaurant had good service though and we were able to get a table pretty quickly considering, so I would still recommend a visit.

Onto the next Leg

Next day we left for Paris via the TGV train. Read all about my 2nd trip to Paris in the upcoming post.

Must Dos

  • Enjoy Zurich Lake views
  • Walk along Limmat River
  • Walk onto Lindenhof Hill
  • Visit Lindt Chocolate Factory
  • Take the Felsenegg Cable car and hike upto Felsenegg top
  • Half day trip to Rhine Falls (can skip the Stein Am Rhein)
  • Eat Fondue and macaroons

For now, I leave you with my final thoughts on Zurich, Switzerland. It is pretty, public transportation is great and there are some amazing sights to see but it is really really expensive place. It will break your pocket to eat out well. Plan accordingly and if you are okay with fast food takeaways, do that.

But still, we had  a great time and left with some sweet memories.

F for French Food

India, Paris, Travel / By / July 22, 2021
French food cover pic

French food, I have always heard, is highly technical and involves precise measurements and use of ingredients. The various regions of France are known for and boast their own specialized dishes e.g. Lorraine, Champagne, Burgundy, Brittany etc. Somethings are common like wine, coffee, and breads! Oh! their breads! Melt in the mouth delicious, you will always find some at every table accompanying whatever dish you order.

From my observation, the French love their food. Mealtimes are almost religious; lunch is atleast an hour and dinner is a leisurely affair lasting for as long as you wish it to be. They dine early while there is still light out so there isn’t really a “tea-time” per se, and breakfast is not a fussy meal as well. When they dine out, they almost always eat al-fresco. I mean most of the restaurants I visited were crowded on the outdoors seating but empty inside. They enjoy the weather and their food.

The Parisian Love

On my solitary trip to Paris, I had a variety of French food, most of which I, unfortunately, do not remember – or was never able to pronounce – the names of. I do remember baguettes, confit duck, braised veal, cheese board with a sharing platter of blue cheese, tuna, pork etc. And…I also remember the French wines! Oh yum!

French Food

However, before you get your hopes up, I want to say that is merely an appreciation post for all French food. I have not yet tried making any French dishes at home except crepes and…French toast. Though as Rani said in “Queen”, this is probably “Indian French Toast”.

For crepes, I use this recipe, its not mine: Allrecipes

Ingredients:

Bread – 6 slices

Eggs – 2

Milk – ¼ cup

Salt – to taste

Pepper – 1 tsp.

Oil – for shallow frying

Method:

  1. Slice the each of the bread pieces in half.
  2. Beat the eggs in a flat-ish bowl.
  3. Add salt, pepper and milk and mix well.
  4. Now, dip the bread triangles into the egg mixture and hold for a few seconds. Turn over and repeat the process.
  5. Heat a frying pan and add oil. Shallow fry the dipped bread pieces in the frying pan making sure to turn over so that they are evenly fried till golden brown on each side.
  6. Serve hot with ketchup.

Tip: Don’t keep it dipped in the egg mixture for too long or it tends to tear away into blobs.

Tip: You can add chopped onions, tomatoes, coriander leaves, chillies to spice up the whole thing but I like it plain and simple so I have mentioned the basic recipe.

Indian French Toast. (I confess, this is a borrowed picture. I will come back with better personal pics.)

This is where the Indian version varies with the classic version – the accompaniment. We have it as a namkeen / savory dish whereas the classic French toast is had with syrup and is a sweet dish. Either way, it makes for an ideal breakfast or even evening snack.

Tip: I once tried a version where I tore the bread into bite sized pieces and made the French toast as tiny, crispy tea snacks. People loved it. You may try it out.

This post was written for Blogchatter A2Z challenge; Day 6 – Letter “F”.

The Quintessential European Town of Segovia

Europe, Segovia, Spain, Travel / By / July 26, 2021
Aqueduct of Segovia

A few kilometers from the bustling capital city of Madrid lies the quaint little town of Segovia. Segovia is the exact picture of what you’d imagine a European town to be like – fabulous architecture, cobbled streets and captivating history. This cute little town awash in history and sporting some of the most beautiful representations of Gothic architecture, is a short day trip away from Madrid (approx. 90kms).

This was one of the best day trips I have ever taken. Read about my other day trips to Pratapgadh (Maharashtra, India) and Sausalito (San Francisco, USA) written as part of Blogchatter’s My Friend Alexa campaign which is how I’m taking my blog to the next level.

Getting There

I boarded a Renfe (Spain’s national train company) high speed AVE train from Madrid’s Chamartín station and reached Segovia Guiomar station in exactly 27 minutes. The train departed at 8:55 AM on the dot and pulled into Guiomar at precisely 9:22 AM as advertised. The journey was a smooth one and I loved the scenic countryside flashing by.

Guiomar station is located on the outskirts of Segovia – about 5kms from the town proper. So, from the station I took the No. 11 bus to reach the city, which took about 20 minutes. The timing of the buses are such that they offset with the arrival of the trains. The bus dropped me off right in front of the Aqueduct.

Tip: Book your tickets online here and exchange your booking confirmation for actual tickets at the station. The two-way ticket cost me ~ € 42 (including a small booking fee by GoEuro / Omio). Bus No. 11 fare is ~ €2 each way.

Tip:  Trains depart every hour (or lesser) from Chamartín throughout the day but my suggestion would to be arrive early in Segovia to be able to visit all the myriad attractions it has to offer. Though there are other ways to travel to Segovia from Madrid, this high speed train is the best option in my opinion.

The Aqueduct

The Aqueduct is Segovia’s main attraction and its pièce de résistance. It’s easy to see why people come in from far and wide to admire and gaze at this engineering marvel. As I stepped down from the bus, I looked up at the beautiful arches of the aqueduct and was spellbound. I went up and down its length, climbed up the structure and looked across its breadth taking pictures and simply enjoying its beauty.

The Roman Aqueduct of Segovia was built in the early 2nd century to supply water to Segovia. It used the principle of gravity and natural slope to convey water from the Rio Frio river to the city. Water was carried on the upper channel and crossed the city under the ground up to the Alcazar. It is considered a masterpiece of Roman hydraulic engineering whose stones are joined by neither cement nor mortar. It has 167 arches in its entirety and a total length of ~16000 meters from its origin in Guadarrama mountain range. The Aqueduct was declared a National Monument in 1884 and a World Heritage Site in 1985.

Tip: You can also visit the Aqueduct Visitor center which contains interactive multimedia exhibit to help you travel through 2000 yrs. of history of the monument.

Alcázar de Segovia

After spending a leisurely time at the Aqueduct, I ventured further into the town. Walking along its cobblestoned streets in the lazy afternoon sun was a joy indeed. Further on, I encountered the city walls and stood and admired the vibrant green valley view spread out in front of me. About 20 minutes later, I arrived in front of my next stop – The Alcazar of Segovia. The Alcázar is basically a castle; it became one of the favorite residences of the then king and queens. Built over a period of 5 centuries (11th – 19th) from the reign of Alphonse VI to that of Philip II, this palace was the residence of the Castilian Monarchs during the middle ages. The “Old Palace” was extended in 15th century when several rooms were added:

  • El Solio: Throne Room; houses the throne commissioned for visit of Alfonse XIII and Queen Victoria Eugeria.
  • La Galera: Galley Room; named after its moulded ceiling resembling the hull of a ship upside down.
  • Las Piñas: Pine Cone Room; named after the 392 peculiar pine cone carvings on its ceiling.
  • De Reyes: Monarchs Room; decorated with a frieze depicting the monarchs of Asturias, Castile and León.
  • Del Cordón: Cord Room; named after the Franciscan cord decorating its walls.
  • De Capilla: The Chapel, witnessed the nuptial veiling ceremony between Philip II and Anna of Austria. It also houses Bartolomé Carducho’s “The Epiphany” painting.

The Alcazar was the State Prison in the 18th century and the Royal Convert of Artillery in 1764. Currently, it houses the Military Historical Archive. Most parts of this monument can be visited including its roof. After visiting all the rooms and fantastic exhibits, I headed to the tower. The view from the Tower of Juan II was terrific!

Tip: Summer hours (April – September) are from 10 AM to 7 PM while the winter hours (October – March) are from 10 AM to 6 PM. Tickets were ~€11 for a palace + tower top visit. Check details here.

Alcazar
  • Suit of armour
    Suit of armour
  • Tapestry
    Tapestry
  • Glass painting
    Glass painting
  • Painting
    Painting
  • Golden ceiling decorations
    Golden ceiling decorations
  • Altarpiece
    Altarpiece
Inside the Alcazar
View from Alcazar tower

The Cathedral of Segovia

My final stop before lunch was The Cathedral of Segovia. I had initially planned to spend about 15-20 minutes in the cathedral – after all how much time can one spend while sightseeing in a cathedral, right? Wrong! This cathedral has the most sublime glass paintings, wall paintings and magnificent sculptures. I was so fascinated with all of the art this place has to offer that I was there for nearly 2 hours goggling at the absorbing creations of the great masters.

The original Cathedral called Santa Maríe was of Romanesque style but after its destruction in the Comuneros War (Communities’ War), the church was rebuilt in Gothic style though its conception echoes the Renaissance era. Constructed on the proposal of Charles V, this church was dedicated to The Ascensión of Maria to Heaven and Saint Frutos (Patron Saint of Segovia). It has a 3-nave structure and an ambulatory.

Some of the most glorious artworks are: the sculpture of St. Andrew, The Descent from the Cross triptych by Flemish painter Ambrose Benson, Renaissance altarpiece with sculptures of The Immaculate, Baroque grillwork by Antonio de Elorza, the Tree of Life etc. Other important works of Pedro Berruguete, Sánchez Cuello and Van Orley are housed in this cathedral.

Cathedral of Segovia
Glass Paintings

Mesón de Cándido

Apart from the Aqueduct, the other thing that Segovia in known for is Cochinillos or roasted suckling pig. Even though it is available in various parts in Spain and in a lot of restaurants in Segovia, I chose the best and the original – Mesón de Cándido. It is a traditional Spanish cuisine consisting of tender, succulent roast pig fresh from wood-fired ovens. The dish put me in gastronomic heaven! This is a must-do in Segovia!

Lunch!

La Granja Castle

Palacio Real de La Granja de San Ildefonso or the Royal Palace of La Granja in San Ildefonso was the next and final stop of my Segovia trip. It is located in the outskirts of Segovia (approx. 10 kms.) in the town of San Ildefonso. To reach, I boarded a La Sepulvedana bus from the stop in front of the Aqueduct, heading into the hills. It took about 20 minutes to reach La Granja whereupon I de-boarded in front of the castle entrance.

Tip: Visit the La Sepulvedana bus station to collect a bus time table so you can plan your La Granja trip accordingly. Buses leave every 45 minutes from the station.

Due to the long time spent in the Cathedral and my laid-back splendid lunch, I did not have a lot of time on my hands to fully explore the castle. However, I did have time enough to visit all the palatial rooms and the wonderfully kept gardens. I moved from room to room admiring the paintings like the ceiling frescoes and the luxurious furniture (an understatement) like the ornate elaborate four posters and chest of drawers, armchairs etc. Then there was the vast, dazzling collection of gold jewelry, urns, lamps, utensils etc. and finally, the armoury and artillery rooms.

Tip: Photography is prohibited inside the castle so commit everything to memory. You can however take pics of the palace façade and its grounds.

La Granja castle from the outside

Lost!

After breezing through the castle visit, I made it on time to the bus stop, barely – or so I thought. However, there were no buses to be seen. Usually the buses run like clockwork so I started worrying that I had missed it. Soon, a bus arrived. Initially I was told that I was in the opposite direction, but then that one turned out to be wrong too. In the end, I didn’t board the bus, I contemplated walking, yada yada. Anyway, to cut a long story short, I missed my bus and thereby my chances of catching the return train on time.

I broke out in cold sweat but after a call to my husband, who managed to calm me down, I eventually got my head on straight and boarded the next (correct) bus to Segovia. From Segovia, once again Bus. No. 11 took me to Guiomar for my return to Madrid. Thankfully the very sweet guy at the ticket counter understood my predicament and kindly changed my ticket to that of the next train. God bless him!

Fondest Memories

Although there were a few bad moments at the end of the trip, Segovia was a superb experience which I fondly remember till date. I hope to visit again someday.

Tip: While there are other attractions in Segovia, I feel the above curated list consists of the best ones that can be enjoyed in a day. Do take some time out of your day to simply roam the streets and enjoy the serene beauty of the place.

PARIS – of Towers, Gargoyles and Crepes!

Europe, Paris, Travel / By / July 26, 2021
Cover Pic Paris

Paris is beautiful. There is no other way to describe it. It is a visual treat, a balm to the mind and a joy to the heart. Sometimes famous things do not live up to the hype (one such example is mentioned later on in my post) but Paris will live up to all you have heard about it. The City of Love will win you over; clean bowled!

Not the Best Beginning but who cares?!

Long flight-challenges-excitement

Unlike my last foray, this time I did fly over international waters. I faced a few challenges upon landing – my luggage arrived at the very end, my international sim card didn’t seem to be working and then it took ages to locate Albert who was to receive me. It took over an hour to reach our destination – the Novotel (company-arranged) which is where I put up during my stay. I gave myself an hour to get freshened up since it was already nearing midday and then…I started my Paris sojourn. All this drama had not dimmed my excitement one iota; I kept thinking “I’m in Paris, I’m in Paris!”

Tip: The receiving area at the CDG airport is actually inside the airport itself. If you have reached the taxi ranks know that you have crossed that receiving lounge.

Tip: The Schengen visa process for France is a relatively simple one though it requires a lot of documents. You need to book an interview slot, be there to submit your documents, answer a few questions and get your biometric done. The visa should reach you in about 5/7 business days.

Day 1

Louvre-Monalisa-Street Music-Seine-Ile de la Cité-Notre Dame-Berthillon

I had planned extensively on what to do in the mere two days that I had to play tourist and I was eager to get started. You know what they say, “best laid plans…” I started out with my little “planner” diary but hit a literal roadblock almost immediately. The metro stop closest to my hotel was closed for renovation – in fact, so was a major chunk of the routes I had planned to use – since the day before. But, no worries, Google Map to the rescue; it was my savior then and throughout my trip! It rerouted me via buses/alternate metro stations to my 1st stop of the day – collection of my passes/The Louvre Museum.

Passes

There are various types available online – Paris Pass, Paris City Pass, Paris Pass’lib, Museum Pass, Transport Pass being the most common ones. These passes allow you to visit most attractions for free, give discounts on some activities (cruise, shopping, eating) and most passes also have the additional “skip-the-line” advantage. Based on which attractions I wanted to visit and the time I had on hand, I chose the Museum Pass and the Transport Pass. These would cover all museums plus some added attractions and my inter-city travel respectively; cost was also the most optimized.

Tip: The Paris Pass includes both travel and sightseeing but you will not be able to take full advantage of its benefits in only 2 days, trust me. It is also costlier than the Museum and Transport (2 days) pass combined.

Note: Eiffel Tower is not included in any of the passes, it requires a separate ticket altogether (which you can book online).

Street Music

Violinists – street music

I walked from the metro stop to the Tourist Office to collect my passes (ordered online). As I walked, I gazed at the buildings and streets – everything was so neat and colorful and just so pretty. On the way I chanced upon a group of musicians playing on the street – a mini orchestra with violins. I stood there and listened to the wonderfully melodious music for a while basking in the sunshine. I think I fell in love with Paris then.

Tip: Remember to pick up information booklets and city + transport maps of Paris from the Tourist Office. They are really helpful.

Armed with my passes, I walked to my first attraction of the day – The Louvre Museum. I skipped right to the front of the line due to my museum pass and entered the vast main hall, collected my tickets and an information booklet.

The LOUVRE

  • Louvre Pyramid
  • Ariel view of the 3 wings. Pic Courtesy: Inexhibit.com

There are 3 wings in the Louvre – Denon, Richelieu and Sully – named after notable Frenchmen. Each of the wings is spread over 5 levels and houses an unimaginable plethora of paintings, sculptures, antiquities of varied styles and from various eras dating as far back as 4000 BC!!

The Denon wing contains many of the best-known works of art, the Richelieu wing has sculpture terraces and apartments of Napoléon III and the Sully wing focusses on the history of the Louvre.

The Louvre is vast and it is impossible to see everything in a day; in fact, it is said you would need atleast a week to visit each of the exhibits! Well, I had only a few hours so, predictably, I chose the Denon wing which, among others, housed the famous ‘Monalisa’. [Currently, the painting has been shifted to Galerie Médicis in the Richelieu wing.]

The Denon wing had some really wonderful sculptures and paintings which I thoroughly enjoyed. I actually lost track of time in wonderment of the diversified artwork and ended up spending over 3 hours there – and I had only covered a fraction! – but it was an amazing 3 hours.

  • Ceiling Fresco
  • Egyptian art

I exited from the museum proper onto the courtyard in front of the famous Louvre glass pyramids and spent some time taking photos and feeling star-struck. I fondly remembered the last scene of the Dan Brown novel and (the movie buff and geek that I am) recalled the last poem,” The Holy Grail…”

The Louvre also includes the Carrousel and Tuileries Gardens and the Musée Eugène-Delacroix. They are situated at 5- and 15-minutes’ walk from the Louvre respectively. The Tuileries Gardens is known for its flower beds and shaded groves and is an open-air sculpture museum. Do visit these if you have the time; I didn’t since I spent way too much time inside the museum.

Monalisa

I may be crucified for what I am about to say but the Monalisa disappointed me; it didn’t really amaze me and left me puzzled as to its fame. But I am not an art connoisseur and am probably wrong. It is a small painting really, hanging solitary on a huge wall and cordoned off within 4 feet. There was quite a crowd in front of it, all snapping away gaily. I, however, did feel a sense of awe knowing that I was in the presence of the most famous work of the great Leonardo Da Vinci.

Leonardo Da Vinci’s Monalisa

The one painting which I did love and was awed by was the Wedding Feast at Cana by Veronese which hangs on the opposite wall of Monalisa. Measuring 22 ft. by 32 ft. this painting was fascinating.

Wedding Feast at Cana by Veronese

Île de la Cité and Seine

From the Louvre I took a bus to the next stop on my agenda – the Notre Dame Cathedral. The cathedral is located on “Île de la Cité”. The Ile de la Cite is an island which lies at the centre of Paris and is connected via bridges to the mainland. It is a charming place with cobbled streets, vibrant shopfronts and cute houses.

My bus stop was actually on this side of the Seine River and I walked across one of the bridges to the island. It was a pleasant stroll in the breezy afternoon and I stopped midway to enjoy the beautiful picture the river posed. There were several street performers on the bridge as well – singers, magicians (I enjoyed that for a few minutes) and guitarists. The atmosphere was such a joyful one!

NOTRE DAME

A few minutes’ walk into the Ile de la Cité will bring you to the Notre Dame Cathedral. It took almost 200 years to build this glory of Gothic architecture which was the largest religious building in western Europe until the mid-13th century. This symbol of medieval Paris is a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Notre Dame allows free entry into the cathedral proper. As a result, the queues were huge on a Saturday – it would take me atleast 2 hours! So, I chose an alternative.

Notre Dame cathedral facade

The towers of Notre Dame are its most famous feature. Victor Hugo’s famous novel The Hunchback of Notre Dame described them as “beautifully balanced parts of a magnificent whole”. This is where I headed. Entry to the towers are chargeable but I got free entry via my museum pass although there was no skip the line allowed and I had to stand in queue (much smaller one than the cathedral one). Visitors are allowed to go up in groups of 20 every 10 minutes.

To get to the top of the tower, I had to climb 400 steep steps which kept getting narrower the more I arose. The first stop was the Chimera gallery which gets its name from the statues gracing the façade; the most famous one is “styrga”.Next comes the south tower belfry which houses the cathedral’s 2 largest bells dating back to the 17th century!

After the strenuous climb, I was awarded with the most stunning view – the entire city of Paris laid out in an incredible vista before me. I could see the Eiffel Tower, the gleaming Sacré-Coeur, the Seine and the pretty houses of Paris. It was one of the best experiences of Paris for me. I stayed there for ages just gazing out at the beautiful sight.

  • Stairs to the tower top
  • Views from Notre Dame tower top – city of Paris
  • Eiffel Tower as seen from Notre Dame tower top
  • Notre Dame bell
  • Views from Notre Dame tower top – river Seine
  • Gargoyles

Crepes and Berthillon

It was now time for lunch. This was when I understood one thing about Parisians – they love and almost always eat, al fresco. You will find the inside of restaurants empty, but the outside tables brimming with patrons. But the Indian in me couldn’t bear to sit in the sun for so long – I ate inside. I chose French baguette ham sandwich and crepes for my meal. The baguette was melt in your mouth tasty and the crepe was to die for! Perfect introduction to French cuisine.

I followed up that delicious meal with ice cream from Paris’ famous shop Berthillon; one scoop of salted caramel and raspberry each. O my my, the cold creamy goodness made my day!

  • Crepes
  • Ice cream!
  • Berthillon

I wanted to end the day with shopping; however, when I made my way to this shopping district  – Latin Quarter – all shops were closed!! So, I roamed the pretty streets just looking into and admiring storefronts before heading back to my hotel. On the way back, the bus stops confused me a bit and I got lost – Google maps turned me round and round in search of a particular bus stop for almost an hour! Thankfully, I spotted it in the end after which I called it a day.

Tip: Most shops (not restaurants) close by 7PM and are closed on Sundays as well, so plan your shopping stints accordingly.

Tip: Strange and notable thing about Paris bus stops – there may be a stop A and there may be a stop B but sometimes there may be a stop A-B. So, when you are looking for a hyphenated name most always it is an in between stop on a small by-road.

Day 2

Eiffel Tower-Orsay Museum-Saint Chapelle-Seine Cruise

I began the next day nice and early. The first agenda of the day – the Eiffel Tower!! A 45 minute metro ride and a 10 minute walk took me to Champs de Mars, the location of the Tower.

EIFFEL TOWER

The first sighting of the icon was when I was about 2 minutes away from the actual location and its sheer size amazed me. But the real wonder of it dawned on me when I finally stood in front of it. The Eiffel Tower was breathtaking! Towering 1063 ft. above ground, the wrought-iron lattice structure is a thing of beauty.

The Eiffel Tower

There are 3 levels – the top one being at 906 ft.! To buy tickets, I had to stand in line for almost 1.5 hours and the top level got filled out by the time it was my turn, unfortunately. There is a limit to people allowed on each level due to space crunch and top level being significantly narrower, gets crowded quite soon. I was told I could go up once it freed up a little. Though slightly disappointed, nothing could dampen my mood on this gorgeous sunny day.

Tip: The first 2 levels are part of the normal entry ticket while there is an extra charge for the top-level observation deck. Tickets can be bought online but remember to book it well in advance. Online tickets will state date and time and will save you standing in line.

I rode the lift to the first floor – it’s an angled rise along the “legs” of the tower. The elevator ride itself is an exhilarating experience. You can also take the stairs but it will be a daunting task – believe me because I climbed down them and the steps seem never ending. The view from the 1st 2 levels of the tower is a phenomenal one. The 360-degree view of the Paris landscape is mesmerizing. I spent a long time simply admiring the view until it was time for me to leave.

Panoramic view from 2nd floor of Eiffel
2nd floor views
At the base of the monument is a head statue of Gustave Eiffel, an ode to the creator of this incredible monument which is a wonder of the world.

Walks

Random photos from street walks

After I descended from the tower, I spent some time photographing it from the lawns of Champs De Mars. I then walked to my lunch appointment with a relative. Walking in Paris was one of my favorite memories of the city. Colorful alleys shaded by trees and pretty houses all make the soul so happy. This time I had lunch al fresco keeping in trend with the Parisians – it was an enjoyable experience. Post lunch, we spent some time roaming the streets, over the numerous bridges – most notable The Pont Alexandre III. Strolling along the river with the breeze on my face will forever be etched on my mind. We ended up at my next sightseeing attraction – The Orsay Museum.

MUSEE D’ORSAY

The Orsay Museum is a renovated railway station which was inaugurated for the World Fair 1900. It was converted to a museum in 1986. It boasts of a diverse range of paintings, sculptures, photography which represent the evolution of western world art from 1848 to 1914.

  • Monet Blue Water Lilies
  • Self Potrait of Van Gogh
Art @Orsay Museum

Orsay Museum was more my kind of museum – I admired and just loved the paintings because I understood them, they were more identifiable and overall appealed to my novice senses. Monet’s famous “Blue Water Lilies” resides here and is enthralling to look at. Degas, Manet, Van Gogh, Gauguin – amazing collections of these famous artists blew my mind. I enjoyed wholly and whole heartedly here. The high arched ceilings draw your gaze while what captures your heart is the massive Victorian station clock at the end of the building – a remnant of the original building. This is a definite must visit, I recommend!

SAINTE CHAPELLE

After spending almost the whole 2nd half of the afternoon at the Orsay, I made my way to the last attraction of the day – the Saint Chapelle.

Located in the center of Île de la Cité, the Saint Chapelle is a royal chapel of the Palais de la Cité. It was built between 1242 and 1248 as per Louis IX’s wishes to house the relics of the Passion of Christ. The relics were displayed in the upper chapel while the lower chapel was a place of worship for the palace staff.

Lower chapel

Today, the lower chapel houses a statue of the Virgin Mary and, on its left wall, the oldest wall painting in Paris – a 13th century fresco depicting the Annunciation. The upper chapel is a thing of wonder – its brilliance leaves you dumbstruck! The reason is the famous stained-glass windows which are breathtaking.

The 15 tall, arched and glamorous stained-glass windows contain 1113 scenes depicting the story of mankind from Genesis to Christ’s resurrection. 14 of these are to be read left to right, from bottom upwards, while the 15th which tells the story of the relics are read boustrophedonically. Boustrophedonically means reading from bottom upwards and alternate lines are read in opposite directions – left to right then right to left. The windows left me gaping at them while I tried to absorb the magnificence of the shimmering and dancing colours and patterns.

SEINE Cruise

My last activity of the day was a different kind of sightseeing – a cruise. I took a cruise on the Seine river. The cruises run from 10.30am-10pm and are of three types – lunch, dinner or plain sightseeing. I chose the last one. There are various companies offering their services but upon reading reviews I settled on Bateaux Parisiens.

Aboard the deck of the panoramic boat, I looked up at the towering Eiffel again and admired it – the cruises depart from the foot of the monument. One glance at this wonder is simply not enough. Once the cruise began, though, I had a lot else to look at. The 1-hour ride with commentary was another memorable experience in Paris. The wind in your hair while you glide through the water, under arching – and sometimes dangerously low – bridges, with the pretty city of Paris surrounding you – it is just the most amazing feeling! The tour gave glimpses of Les Invalides, La Place de la Concorde, L’Assemblée Nationale, La Conciergerie among others.

Cruise scenes

All too soon, we were turning back to return to our starting point but not before one last surprise. As evening fell and we approached the end of the cruise, the Eiffel Tower lit up in welcome and did its light dance – they sparkled and winked for 5 minutes and was the perfect end to my cruise and the day. My love for Paris was cemented in place.

Day 3 & 4

Work-French Food-Bye

This was a work trip and that’s what took up most of the next 2 days – work and some more work. However, at lunch and the end of each day, we i.e. my colleagues and I went out for French food. Those 4 meals were filled with classic French cuisine – confit duck, flammekueche, a fabulous starter with pork fat tuna and last but not the least – blue cheese! The foodie in me was entirely satisfied.

After 4 ½ days in Paris, it was then time to say goodbye to this beautiful city which had made a permanent place in my heart.

Some places which I missed out on due to scarcity of time, are mentioned below.

In summary, for a 2-day Paris trip:

  • Day 1: Louvre, Tuileries Garden, Notre Dame (do not miss the tower!), Arc de Triomphe & Champs-Élysées, Pantheon, shopping.
  • Day 2: Eiffel Tower, Orsay Museum, Sacré-Cœur, Saint Chapelle, Seine Cruise.

They say “there’s a museum at every corner in Paris”, so be sure to take in your quota of atleast 2-3 museums when in Paris. I had sorely wanted to visit the Palace of Versailles but it is located quite a bit outside the city and the journey to and from would be about 3 hours. Sadly, I had to let that dream go.

2 days barely scratches the surface of Paris but it will give you a taste and feel of what an amazing city it is and will leave you wanting more. I know that I am definitely going back there some day for an encore.

Tip: There is fear of pickpockets in most of the tourist spots, so it is advisable to not use backpacks; rather wear your bag cross-bodied and keep your belongings close to you and within your eyesight at all times. This is something a lot of people have advised me including resident Parisians.

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