Himalayas

Trek to the Moon Lake – An 8-day Lahaul-Spiti Experience – Part 3

Asia, Himalayas, India, Travel / By / April 23, 2022

The year – 2019. The place – Himachal Pradesh. The travelers – my husband and myself.

We had just reached the campsite for penultimate day’s stay in Chandratal. Read about the first part of our trip and our journey to this place here in Part 1 and Part 2.

After lunch and rest, began the final leg of our trip.

The Mini-trek

Chandratal – “taal” meaning lake – is situated at an elevation of 14000ft and is a holy lake. It is a mountain lake – nestled at the base of and surrounded by mountains. We started our trek towards the lake at around half past three in the afternoon by following a path just behind our campsite. We walked through grass covered hills, flowers here and there and were greeted by sheep once. Through it all we had the nippy mountain air and the gorgeous Himalayas as our guide.

Up and down through arcs and troughs we went until suddenly we realized we were lost! We were supposed to have reached the lake by now but we didn’t seem to be even close. There were no maps – Google or otherwise – to help us. So, we backtracked a bit till we could see the vehicle-road below and then followed the trail parallel through it. Finally, finally, after we had crested a small hillock, we could see the lake from above! What a wondrous sight! Hues of green and blue merging with each other and the white-peaked mountains all around.

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Chamdratal!
Chamdratal!
Us :)
Us 🙂
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In Panorama

Tip: Vehicles aren’t allowed right up to the lake. There is a particular point upto which vehicular movement is restricted after which one will need to hike to the lake. We took the more meandering and circuitous trekking route to the lake. The more conventional route is via car to the last point allowed for cars and then the small walk.

In the light of the setting sun, we hiked back to the camp via the road route. We were greeted by tea and maggi back at the camp. Ah, bliss! Once dark, the temperature dropped to single digits and we were left shivering. So we quickly ducked back to the dining camp for hot soup. Barely an hour later, we had our dinner and then we were ready to bunk down.

Day 8: Chandratal to Manali

At the crack of dawn the next day, we had to start for Manali. We started off after a quick tea consumed standing up and with our breakfast packed. The reason for this was the melting of glaciers as the day wore on. With the rising sun, the glaciers melt and overrun the road thereby making passage difficult. Guided by the Chenab River this time, we drove on, sometimes between walls of snow higher than our car, sometimes right by the gushing river and sometimes with the mountains up close to us. We stopped for lunch at Chhatru – hot paranthas with achhar – and then were quickly back on the road.

At Chhatru

We faced trouble in paradise shortly after lunch. Our car broke down! Amidst mounting tension, our driver and we tried to think of ways to reach Manali. Eventually we got a lift in a car whose driver was a friend of our driver – thank the HP drivers’ community.

Our one stop before Manali – Rohtang Pass. At the snow clad Rohtang, we stopped to admire the view but declined from playing about in the snow. We made it to Manali late evening. Evening was spent on a leisurely walk through Manali’s mall road and we returned to our hotel after dinner at the mall.

Rohtang Pass

Final day: Half day Manali trip & Return to Mumbai

The next day was a relaxed one to “recuperate” from our vacation. Just one small visit to the Hadimba Devi Temple where we offered our prayers in gratitude for our trip. A little bit of shopping and we were ready for our return to Mumbai.

Hadimba Devi Temple

The amazing adventures of Spiti

While it may seem like a hectic trip with one night at each place, in reality there wasn’t any running from one attraction to the next. Spiti is all about the journey, the scenery and the company of loved ones. There is no mobile network (except for BSNL, I’m told) and so it is refreshing change from social media, work and news. Spiti is a place to just be, to absorb the beauty and bounty of nature.

Tips for Spiti:

Some other places to visit in Spiti are:

  • Chitkul
  • Kibber (known for snow leopards)
  • Losar

You can change the itinerary to just pass by some of the places and/or to stay the night in the ones we passed by eg. Dhankar or Nako.

Best time to visit: Pre-monsoons to winter are the times to visit but as per me, best time is the pre monsoon where you can enjoy the desert mountain scenery to its utmost. Monsoons are a little dangerous with respect to roads while winter can cause heavy snowfall thereby blocking out some of these places entirely. And, all white may be a different kind of pretty but will not give you the effect of the “desert” beauty.

Weather: During pre monsoons, weather is cool to chilly during the night and warm during the day. In Chandrataal though, due to the winds, it is chilly during the day and quite cold during the night. Suit up accordingly.

Best way to travel: By car, in a group so that expenses are divided is the best way to travel.

Expenses: We had medium budget stays in some places and some basic ones. Local food mostly vegetarian with eggs was what we consumed. We, a couple, traveled by car so that cost wasn’t shared. Our cost for the trip was around ₹75,000. For a larger group – optimum 4 – this will be lesser.

This is a jewel of Himachal, plan your trips soon!

The Spiti Way – An 8-day Lahaul-Spiti Experience

Asia, Himalayas, India, Travel / By / April 18, 2022

The year – 2019. The place – Himachal Pradesh. The travelers – my husband and myself.

One of the most scenic and traversed routes in the Himachal is the Spiti and Lahaul Valley circuit. It takes a minimum of 8 days to cover the bare essentials of this gorgeous trip; ours was of 9 days. It is somewhat of a hectic trip but being surrounded by nature’s serene beauty, it didn’t feel that way at all.

The Route

Spiti and Lahaul valley is dotted with numerous villages along its entire route; however we chose our circuit based on distances and locations we wanted to visit most and were feasible in the time span we had.

Our final route, starting from Shimla via car was:

Sarahan – Kalpa – Pin Valley – Nako – Tabo – Dhankar – Kaza – Ki-Kibber – Langza-Komic-Hikkim and finally the star Chandratal Lake! We ended our trip in Manali via Rohtang Pass.

Some of these were small villages we visited enroute to our final destination for the day while the rest were our night stops in major (relatively) towns. While most people do the circuit the other way round – from Lahaul to Spiti – we chose to do it the Spiti-Lahaul way.

The Valley

Lahaul and Spiti is the desert of the mountains. Nestled among The Himalayas, it is an area which receives minimum rainfall; in fact, rainfall is actually harmful to majority of the region. The two valleys are separated by Kunzum Pass or Kumzum La. The average elevation is around 14000 ft. which gives it pleasantly cool weather during the summer and monsoon seasons and biting cold during the winter.

The arid desert mountains of Spiti

Preparations

Conveyance: Spiti can be reached via air, bus or car. The best way to travel though, is by car. One can get to enjoy the scenery of the land and the mountains while traveling in a car. We hired a car from Chandigarh (start) to Manali (end) to cover the entire circuit; this was done with references online and then via phone.

Bookings: We only booked our hotel in Kaza for 2 nights’ stay and that in Manali for 2 nights. The rest of our night halts were on the advise of our driver who guided us to the best places to stay in locally.

Our transport for the whole trip

Itinerary

Day 1: Shimla to Sarahan

We flew from Mumbai to Chandigarh on an early morning flight (read: inhuman hour) and then took a cab from Chandigarh to Shimla. After a quick lunch in Shimla, we started off.

Here onwards started our trip – from the Shimla district. While our initial plan for the day’s pit stop was Narkanda, we finally drove further on to end our day at Sarahan. It was night by the time we reached so we freshened up and just crashed for the night.

Day 2: Sarahan, onto Kalpa

The next day dawned bright and clear. We woke up early to poke around Sarahan a little bit and to look at the views. Sarahan is known for the Bhimkali Temple which is the home of the revered goddess Bhimkali. We offered our prayers and receives blessings from the goddess for our onwards journey.

At a tiny eatery nearby, we had a breakfast of Maggi and momos and we were ready for the day. We started for Kalpa, driving along the Sutlej River to enter the Kinnaur. The gushing river, the tall mountains and the greenery along with the cool weather made for such a pleasant journey. After all, it’s the journey that matters!

We reached our day’s destination in the early evening. After we put up at our hotel, we set out on foot to explore Kalpa.

KALPA

The three main attractions in Kalpa are:

  1. Narayan Nagini Temple
  2. Hu Ba Lan Kar Monastery
  3. Kinnaur-Kailash Range

We visited the beautiful monastery and paid our respects but unfortunately the temple was closed. We admired the beautiful pagoda style architecture and the splendid view of the mountains from the temple’s courtyard. After a leisurely walk around the village, we returned to our hotel.

Over hot pakodas and tea, with a view of the gorgeous Kinnaur-Kailash range, we spent our evening chatting away. It was such a relaxing day – an idyllic location, comfort food and great company.

Tip: Other things to do in Kalpa –

  1. Visit Sapni Fort
  2. Go to Roghi Village
  3. Hiking to Chaka

Day 3: Kalpa to Nako & Tabo

Once again, we had an early start to the day. In the hills, that’s the way to be. One hot breakfast later, we were on our way to the Spiti Valley. Driving through gorgeous mountain scenery, still following River Sutlej, we were enchanted. At Khab Sangam, we stopped for tea and to stretch our legs. This was the confluence of the rivers Sutlej and Spiti. We broke off to the left to finally enter Spiti Valley. Here the river was more voluminous and deep – the lifeblood of the valley.

NAKO

Our first stop in Spiti was Nako, where we reached in the afternoon. We stopped here for lunch and for Nako’s most famous atrraction – Nako Lake. This mountain lake, surrounded by trees is considered to be a scared lake by the locals. We spent a serene hour sitting at the lake and admiring the beautiful surroundings.

Tip: Other things to do in Nako is to visit the Nako Monastery.

TABO

Soon it was time to get back on the road to our sojourn through Spiti. In the early hours of the evening, we reached Tabo. This charming town was our halt for the day. Eager to explore the town, we quickly dumped our stuff and took off walking. Soon we came upon a path taking us up a hillock overlooking the town and set upon it. Huffing and puffing our way up, we reached the top and sat down on a rock to look at the wonderful panorama in front of us. Cute little houses interspersed with greenery nestled at the foot of the Himalayan mountains – what a sight to behold. We sat there till the light faded away and we returned to a sumptuous dinner at our hotel.

Tip: There are actually some caves atop that hillock and the more adventurous person can venture inside but we opted out due to tiredness and the imminent darkness.

On the way to Tabo
On the way to Tabo
Desert deer
Desert deer
Views from atop the hills in Tabo
Views from atop the hills in Tabo
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Day 4: Tabo, onwards to Dhankar and Pin Valley

TABO Pt. 2

Today held something exciting for me – I was going to go on a mini trek. But before that, there was Tabo to discover to our heart’s content. After breakfast in the quaint little dining room of our hotel – wooden benches and floor seating -, we went walking around Tabo.

The Tabo Monastery is over 1000 years old! It contains hand painted murals, painted tapestries, scrolls etc. The monastery grounds contains other structures built of clay and mud, and there are collections of flat stones which the Buddhists amass for good luck. The stones are inscribed with their prayer – “Om Mani PadMe Hum”.

There’s also a newer monastery – Chorten – which is a modern brick structure and more colorful and sporting and beautiful stupa. We couldn’t enter this one though, because it wasn’t open yet.

From there, we took a walk down to the river bank where the Spiti river flowed gaily. We did some shopping of prayer flags, artefacts and such. Then came the time to start our day’s journey – onwards to Dhankar. It was noon by the time we reached.

Dhankar!

My Spiti story continues in the next part, coming soon! There’s so much still left, keep an eye on this space.

The Highest Ground – An 8-day Lahaul-Spiti Experience Part 2

Asia, Himalayas, India, Travel / By / April 18, 2022

The year – 2019. The place – Himachal Pradesh. The travelers – my husband and myself.

We were on Day 4 of our trip. Read about the first 3 days and the first part of Day 4 here.

Day 4 Continued...

DHANKAR

Immediately on arriving, we embarked on our hiking quest; destination – Dhankar Lake. It usually takes about 3 hours total to complete the trek. We needed to climb up one hill, and go down the other side where the lake lay and then come back the same way. It was high afternoon and extremely sunny and hot, so we carried supplies like water and biscuits. We crested the hill, saw the lake from afar and then made our way back; all in less than 2 hours.

The trek itself was a satisfying one; the amazing scenery, the adrenaline high and the adventure was wonderfully enervating. But, the lake was a let-down to be honest. There was barely any water and one lone stupa guarded it. This, plus the heat and hunger, prevented us from going all the way down and so we made an early escape. Back down, we had lunch in a blessedly cool eatery and recharged our batteries.

Tip: Post monsoons, the lake would be lovely and should be worth a visit. Carry sunblock and hats, shades and wear comfortable shoes for your trek. Water is of course of utmost importance.

After lunch, we visited the Dhankar Monastery. The monastery is built on a clay mountain outcrop, finely balanced and overlooking the confluence of Spiti and Pin river. It almost looks as if its teetering on the edge of the whole mountain! In the monastery, we were served tea which came long with some stories of the gompa and its monks and then guided through the monastery itself.

Dhankar Monastery on the top left corner of the settlement

We restarted our drive after lunch towards Pin Valley which was to be our halt for the day. As always, the stunning scenery was our companion. Our driver advised us to stay the night at Mud village, and then visit Pin Valley the following day. Accordingly, we traveled to the small Mud village. We walked around to enjoy the beauty of nature – there were the mountains, the Pin river and a small half frozen waterfall. We put up at a homestay in Dhar Pilsur on the outskirts.

Day 5: Pin Valley, Key, to Kaza

PIN VALLEY

Early the next morning, after a breakfast of local breads and eggs, we visited the Kungri Gompa (Monastery) to see the festival held there. There was an hour of dancing by the monks in colorful costumes – the devil dance. Outside, the locals were selling various handicrafts and homemade items – like egg noodles, gloves, socks etc. The whole affair was fascinating! This was the Tsheshu Fair, held across all monasteries in Spiti, turn by turn.

After we had enjoyed the festival, we started our day’s journey which was to end in Kaza. Our first stop after Kungri was the Key (or Kye/Ki) monastery located in its namesake. Perched atop a hill, the Key Monastery was beautiful and the whole picture it presented with the brown mountains, blue river, green fields and white clouds floating above was absolutely stunning! We toured the place thoroughly and looked around the area, simply savouring the solitude and nature’s gifts.

Next stop was for lunch in Chicham Khas and then finally onto Kaza in the late afternoon, where we were to stay for the next day as well. Rest of the day – evening and night – was spent in exploring around in Kaza, some shopping and dinner with live music. Vacation goals!

Chicham Khas

Day 6: Langza - Komic - Hikkim

Today was to be a half day trip from Kaza to the nearby villages of Langza, Komic and Hikkim, each of which were known for some reason apart from their pretty locations among the Himalayan mountains. First up, Langza which is known for its giant Buddha statue situated on the mountain top overlooking the valley beyond. When we went there, the statue was undergoing restoration works but we could still see the magnificent statue of the serenely seated Buddha gazing down at us. Langza is also known for its fossils which one can find if they went on an expedition.

From there, it was a quick drive to Komic. Komic, at over 15000ft, is the highest village connected with motorable road. One of the highest monasteries in India is located here. We went inside and offered our prayers at the monastery and the head monk gave us his blessings with a shawl adorned with their prayers! At the “world’s highest restaurant”, we had maggi and tea to refresh ourselves before moving on to visit our next and final stop.

Next up was a fun place to visit – Hikkim. While it is lower in altitude than Komic, Hikkim plays host to the highest post office in the world! This post office is still functional though I think a lot of its mail is outgoing – from the highest post office to various parts of India. We too did the same; we sent postcards to our parents back home in Kolkata. It gave me a thrill to drop those postcards into the box.

After this, it was time to return to our base location, Kaza. We had a late lunch at Hotel Deyzor; an amazing local Spiti dish – the thentuk. In the evening we chances upon some people we had met in Dhankar and had a lovely time chatting to the group and then retired for the night.

Day 7: Kunzum Pass, Chadrataal

CHICHAM & KUNZUM LA

The next day, on e again, we were up early. One hot breakfast later, we continued on our Spiti voyage to the final destination – Chandrataal Lake. From Kaza to Chandrataal is the most stunning scenery I had ever seen or would see. This mountain desert with its bare faced slopes with spur-like outcrops and the Spiti river meandering in between, is unbelievably beautiful. I ran out of adjectives eventually.

One of the most exciting event of the day was crossing over the Chicham bridge. Chicham Bridge, connecting the villages of Kibber and Chicham is the highest bridge in Asia. It stands over a gorge over 1000ft deep! It literally gave me the shivers looking down into the gorge below. Earlier, villagers used to travel via buckets on rope suspension! Can you even imagine?

Our next stop was the Kunzum La (Kumzum Pass). Located at a height of about 15000ft, Kunzum La connects Spiti Valley to Lahaul Valley. Some truly magnificent sights awaited us here. Snow capped peaks all around and the wind whipping hard at us. We paid homage at the Kunzum Stupas and prayed for a safe journey ahead.

CHANDRATAL

As we entered Lahaul Valley and journeyed northwards, the weather started getting cooler and we could see snow gathered by the roadside. By early afternoon, we reached this day’s last stop. We were going to do camping! That is to say, we would stay the night in camps amidst the mountains, near the Chandratal. The tents weren’t as basic as the ones during my trek. There were proper beds with bedding, toilets and even a chair and table in the tents along with gas lamps! Then there was a communal dining tents with tables and benches for meals. We had our lunch upon arrival and then we were off. We were going to trek to the lake!

Tip: We did the booking for the campsite via phone after online research. Ours was Parasol Camps and it is closest to the trek trail.

Camp!

Follow the remainder of my journey in the upcoming post – Part 3 of the Lahaul-Spiti experience. Keep an eye on this space.

The Enticing Himalayas – Winter Kuari Pass Trek Part 3

Himalayas, India, Travel, Uttarakhand / By / November 9, 2021

The stories of Day 1 and 2 of the trek can be found in Part 1 and Part 2.

So Cold!!

On reaching Tali campsite at the end of our trek on Day 2, we headed straight to the kitchen tent to warm up and there we stayed till evening. Several cups of hot tea and bowls of maggi were consumed to ward off the biting cold and to re-energize ourselves after the 13km long trek. From evening till dinnertime, we spent the time in our tents having naps and just resting.

That night’s dinner, delicious though it was, provided only a small respite from the bitter weather. It kept snowing at a steady rate and the ground was carpeted by fresh snow a few millimeters deep. Inside our tents, we had to keep hitting the roof to ensure that snow didn’t collect for very long and bury the tent. When we tried to sleep though, it proved to be impossible – we were literally shaking, our teeth chattering. Cold rose from the ground in waves and any number of layers or even the body warmers couldn’t help. Temperatures had dropped to sub-zero zones, to about -25 deg.C!!

The Descent to Base

The next day, however, dawned bright and sunny to our delight. The unbearable cold had gone and we were left with a manageable cold and a clear, sparkling sky. After breakfast, we packed up for the final time, said goodbye to our camp crew before we set off.

Day 3

We started from Tali at 9AM on day 3, the final day of our trek. Almost as soon as we started our walk, we encountered amazing views behind us. The sun shining down on the fresh snow and the clearly visible majestic peaks. We simply stared with wonder at nature’s beauty. Last night’s snow seemed to add an extra dimension of magnificence to the whole scenery.

Initial part of the day was a medium incline or ascent, and the final part was a mix of gradual and steep descent down to our base point. The sceneries that we came across as we walked on steadily were mind blowing. It was nature at its best, in all its glory and splendor and we were right in its lap!

We started with exclamations like “Omg! Wow!”, “That’s amazing, what a view”, “Never seen anything like this!”, until we soon ran out of words. There weren’t any adjectives to describe the brilliance of what we were witnessing. Every turn of the trail opened up another new mountain peak and scenery.

Ultimately, we started to leave behind this gorgeousness and climbed down to lower altitudes. We traveled via Gurson Bugyal top, onto Gurson Bugyal and finally down to Auli, our final stop.

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Gurson Bugyal Top
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Unforgettable Views

The universe compensated for the cloud cover of the day before and rewarded us with such amazing panoramic views that is hard to put down in words. Seeing is believing. That day we saw some mighty peaks of the Himalayas – Dronagiri, Mt. Kamet, Nanda Devi, Trishul , Chaukhamba, Neelkanth, Hathi Ghoda and some which we did not know the name of but were equally breathtaking.

We saw these mountains at various angles, with the sun and shadows creating views unlike any other, giving birth to unforgettable sceneries.

Day 3 Summary:

From/To: Tali to Auli via Gurson Bugyal

Distance: 9 kms.

Altitude: 11000ft to 11500ft to 9500ft

Walking Time: 5.5-6 hours

Peaks: Dronagiri, Mt. Kamet, Nanda Devi, Trishul , Chaukhamba, Neelkanth, Hathi Ghoda

Memories of a Lifetime

From Auli we were driven by car to Joshimath, where we stayed the night and from there on, traveled the next day to Rishikesh (10 hours by car and finally back to Mumbai. At Joshimath, the fatigue hit us; extreme exhaustion settled upon us and we barely felt able to make it to dinner. And the pain….! Oh, the pain in the legs, I was literally limping. But I wouldn’t exchange it for anything in the world.

This Winter Kuari Pass trek was my first ever trek. I never knew I had this stamina, bravery, strength and will in me to do this. There were bad moments – when I slipped and fell and hit my bum, when my foot slid dangerously close to the edge on the icy snow, when I felt I just couldn’t take the cold anymore and tanning up like crazy, skin bleeding due to dry chappiness and mini frostbite. But nothing, nothing will ever come close to what I saw – nature’s loveliness which I was fortunate enough to behold.

It is the experience of a lifetime with memories forged that will be there in my heart forever.

Things to know before you do a winter trek

  • Clothes: Thermals, fleece jacket, down jacket (which should also be wind and waterproof). Atleast these 3 layers plus woollen mufflers, gloves (one woollen, one waterproof), socks, hat.
  • Shoes: Trekking shoes with bottom treads.
  • Miscellaneous:
    • Body warmers (I recommend)
    • Sanitizing wipes, tissues
    • Headlamps with extra batteries
    • Bag with waterproof cover
    • Sunglasses are a must (can cause snow blindness otherwise)
    • Moisturizer to take care of dry chappiness
    • Thermos to carry warm water.
  • Remember! (for any trek):
    • Do not throw away your trash carelessly, clean up after yourself.
    • Collect the trash and dispose it off properly. Respect nature, it is giving you so much to cherish.
    • Avoid use of plastic as they are toxic.
    • Do not waste, be it food or water. Resources are scarce, use them responsibly.

That said, enjoy the gift of nature and absorb the pure atmosphere all around you.

This post was written as part of Blogchatter’s Cause A Chatter campaign – “Nature Talks”; where I led a rustic life in harmony with nature.

The Charm of Himalayan Mountains – Winter Kuari Pass Trek Part 2

Himalayas, India, Travel, Uttarakhand / By / October 26, 2021

The initial pre-trek and Day 1 story are here in Part 1. Carrying on from there…

T minus 7 Hours

The night at Gulling campsite was freezing cold, and when we lay down on the ground inside our tent – albeit over a mat – our backs froze. The sleeping bags itself came with a layer of warm material plus we had on our inner thermals, tee shirt and fleece jacket. We also had on our socks and gloves. Despite this, it felt cold. To give ourselves that final warmth, we had brought body warmer patches which we attached to our back and the backs of our legs. This helped a lot, and we could catch a few hours of sleep.

I have never done camping so this feeling of sleeping under the open sky with utter silence surrounding me and hug of nature from all around felt exciting and a bit unnerving and, despite the cold, quite fun!

The Final Ascent

Our day started at an ungodly hour of 4.30AM. Hot tea and biscuits was given to us in the tent which awakened us. We freshened up with wipes and a tinny amount of our warm drinking water and then put on our trekking gear – layers, boots, hats, gloves and headlamps. After packing up our sleeping bags and organizing the one we were going to carry, we had a quick breakfast of toast and porridge standing in the kitchen tent. A quick check of equipment later, we were ready to start.

Day 2

The 2nd day of our trek started officially at 6AM. We set off walking in dark with our headlamps on and our walking sticks for aid, over slippery, frozen ground. The guides showed us the route but told us that we should all go at our own pace, stop when needed and pick up pace if we felt like it.

Over the rocky, mountain terrain we walked on, through trees, up boulders, across frozen streams as day gradually dawned around us. We stopped when we were totally out of breath, had water and sweets for sustenance and carried on. It was enervating and such a rush!

As we climbed, we started to encounter snow on the ground, a little scattered here and there on the sides and then ultimately the whole ground was snow covered. Breathing became harder as we moved to the rare air of higher altitudes. We had to pace ourselves.

We traveled via Khullara and reached Khullara Top mid-morning at around 9AM. Here we had a small rest, refreshed ourselves and put on our shoe protectors because we were about to start serious tramping through snow after this. Till now, we were going up a gradual ascent but from hereon started a pretty steep ascent over snow to our final destination.

Walking through snow over steep slopes, S-curved ridges, brambles etc. was hard. The snow was deep so we always had to test the ground by poking our stick and checking that it was solid enough for us to walk on and only then should we step forward. Once we were through the trees and on higher elevation, the entire mountain landscape opened up behind us – the dazzling peaks and a slightly clouded sky.

Never, not one part, not at any point did it ever feel boring or monotonous. Each step was a challenge, each foot forward was a risk taken towards our ultimate goal. Ofcourse we stopped for photos, water, small rest to catch our breaths. And so it went on till we reached our peak – Kuari Pass at an altitude of 12500ft.

We summitted at 10:30AM in the morning. And may I say, I was the first one to reach the top – yay me! I soaked in the feeling of having reached the top, that sense of achievement, that absolute joy and finally the utter wonderment of having that sheer natural beauty in front of me.

Kuari Pass!!

A Panorama Unlike Any Other

It was unbelievably windy and cold at the top. But that all faded when we beheld the view in front of us. The valley stretched out between the ranges and the mountain peaks right up in our faces, all separated by the pass we stood on – Kuari Pass.

Unfortunately, the weather had turned quite cloudy by this time and we were able to witness only a few peaks. Mainly, the Dronagiri behind us, to our left the Pangarchulla peak and mostly hidden behind the clouds – the Neel Kanth. Despite this, the panoramic view was something to be remembered forever, it was a view unlike any ever seen.

At The Top

The Descent

Having spent a half an hour or thereabouts on the pass, it was time to start our descent to the other side to our day’s camp. After walking a couple of minutes, we found some boulders shielded from the extreme wind and we sat to have our packed lunch.

The descent was via a ridge to our Tali camp. This was the most adventurous part of our trek where it always felt one slip and down we would go. As we started our walk over the ridge – sharp drops on each side of us – it started to rain. We had to walk carefully on the path because it soon became slippery. The danger added a level of exhilaration and excitement to this part of the trek. Hearts beating fast, heads bent against the rain, we forged on ahead.

After some-time the rain converted to snow and with the wind blowing sideways it struck our faces, settled on our clothes and bags. It was fascinating to see the various shapes and sizes of the snowflakes as they floated by. But we had to concentrate on the path, on not slipping and sticking to the trail.

Finally, at around 2PM in the afternoon, we made it to Tali Forest, where our camp for was setup among the trees for the day.

Snowing on descent

Day 2 Summary:

From/To: Gulling to Tali via Kuari Paas

Distance: 13 kms.

Altitude: 9000ft. to 12500ft and back to 11000ft

Walking Time: 8 hours

Peaks: Dronagiri, Pangarchulla

Final part of the trek coming up in Part 3.

This post was written as part of Blogchatter’s Cause A Chatter campaign – “Nature Talks”; how I was at the heart of nature and one with it.

Paradise On Earth – Winter Kuari Pass Trek

Himalayas, India, Travel, Uttarakhand / By / October 26, 2021

Heaven on earth. This is the only term to describe the Himalayas and its impeccable beauty. To be up close to these gorgeous mountains, in the very lap of pure, unadulterated nature is a blessing. To be able to witness those views from the top is an award which you get for your hard work to reach there. Such were my feelings on my first ever mountain trek – the Kuari Pass Trek.

Auspicious Beginnings

The pre-trek part of the trip saw us – my husband and myself – traveling from Mumbai to the holy city of Rishikesh, Uttarakhand. Our hotel was right beside the river – the Holy Ganges – and just 2 doors away from the Laxmanjhula. Breakfast was hot kachoris and sabji, with tea on the balcony with a view of the Ganga and the Laxmanjhula bridge. Could there have been a better start to a trip?

After breakfast, we went for a walk by the river, over the bridge and onto the other side towards the Ramjhula. A pleasant walk with some window shopping or actually, 1 piece of shopping – I bought a woollen hat. That hat turned out to be my savior on the trek.

The walk left us famished and we had lunch at this cute café. Evening saw us meeting up with our con-conspirators i.e. our co-trekkers. We reacquainted ourselves – food, adda and laughter – and discussed the final minutiae of our trek.

Raring To Go

Early next morning – 5:45AM!! – we 4 trekkers started from Rishikesh by car for Joshimath which would be our main starting point of trek as well as the place for collection of supplies. With stops for tea and lunch, we reached Joshimath at about 6PM to icy cold weather. Temperatures were down to 9°C!

Joshimath is a bustling town in Uttarakhand which serves as the starting point for many a trek or trip to the upper Himalayas, including pilgrimages. In itself, it is a pretty town with its mountainous backdrop and religious afflictions as several temples of fame are located here.

We took a walk about town, imbibing the cold and compensating by having hot tea and biscuits! We met our guide for the trek who gave us instructions, timings and some tips. After organizing our trekking bags for the next day, we turned in early that night.

Incredible India!

Trek starts - The Initial Ascent

Next morning, though the 3rd day of our trip, was our 1st day of trek. Excited, we were ready and raring to go at 9.30AM. We were to travel a short distance by car to Dhak, point zero of our trek. Before that, we made a stop to collect all supplies which were to last all of us for the next 3 days. Ration, fuel, water, utensils, stoves, sleeping bags, tents.

Our trek was organized by Himalaya Trekkers, a small but experienced group who took care of all our trekking needs from point to point (Joshimath to Joshimath).

Day 1

At 10:30AM, we officially started our trek from Dhak (~ 6100ft).

We dismounted the car and strapped on our bags while our equipment – that we had picked up earlier – was loaded on to 2 mules who would carry it to the day’s campsite. The four of us plus our two guides – second one joined us at Dhak – took off walking on a small trail through the village of Dhak.

As we climbed, the mountain vista slowly opened up below us and enjoyed the lovely sights. After about an hour, we stopped for a rest and to refill our water bottles in tiny village of Tugasi (~7000ft). This would be our last encounter with villages or residents – after this it would be the mountains and us, nature embracing us.

Lunch was a packed one – roti, sabji, a fruit, a chocolate bar and juice – sitting on a rocky outcrop on a trail to higher altitude. A drink of water and we set off again. We were able to gradually see and recognize peaks in the distance. The feeling that we were closer to them was something never felt before. The final leg of that day’s trekking ended at our campsite – Gulling, at an altitude of 9000ft. We had walked for 3 hours that day and covered a distance of about 7kms.

We were greeted by an astoundingly beautiful campsite on the edge of the mountain with a view to die for. Dronagiri, Nanda Devi, and Hathi Ghoda peaks were right in front of us – an unimpeded view against a sparklingly clear sky!

The trekkers

Camping

Our campsite was already set-up by our camping crew helpers; 2 tents for the 4 of us, one loo tent, one kitchen tent. The kitchen tent was our saviour for these 3 days, only place warm enough to thaw us down a little in the freezing cold weather. It also served us king’s feasts for every meal. That evening it was piping hot coffee and pakodas!

We then had a small trekking lesson just before that – our guide showed us how to put on shoe protectors and spikes for snow trekking. Then, we were given instructions on camping rules –

  • Do not waste water (no brushing, just a quick mouth wash)
  • How to use the loo tent (hole’s been dug, do your thing and the use the shovel to cover it with dirt)
  • How to use your sleeping bags (pack them up the next day)
  • Collect your trash so they can be disposed off properly.
Me!! Enjoying sunshine @ Camp Gulling

I am doing my bit towards conservation of nature by raising awareness through this post via Blogchatter’s Cause A Chatter campaign.

Before sunset, we did a bit of exploring around the mountainside, taking in the clean, fresh air and the wonderful ambience that surrounded us and then watched the sun go down in between those gorgeous peaks.

Dinner was hot food – rotis, daal, sabji, sweets – in the warm tent. We chitchatted and walked about the small campsite in the moonlight but in the end the cold got us – it was impossible to just stand in that cold. We retired early as we had a very very early start the next day. Our final ascent to the peak.

Coming up in Part 2 , our final ascent and in Part 3, our last day of returning to base.

Day 1 Summary:

From/To: Dhak to Gulling

Distance: 6-7 kms.

Altitude: 6100ft. to 9000ft.

Walking Time: 3 hours

Peaks: Dronagiri, Nanda Devi, Hathi Ghoda

Us! @ Camp Gulling
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