Nils

PARIS – of Towers, Gargoyles and Crepes!

Europe, Paris, Travel / By Nils / August 2, 2020 July 26, 2021

Paris is beautiful. There is no other way to describe it. It is a visual treat, a balm to the mind and a joy to the heart. Sometimes famous things do not live up to the hype (one such example is mentioned later on in my post) but Paris will live up to all you have heard about it. The City of Love will win you over; clean bowled!

Not the Best Beginning but who cares?!

Long flight-challenges-excitement

Unlike my last foray, this time I did fly over international waters. I faced a few challenges upon landing – my luggage arrived at the very end, my international sim card didn’t seem to be working and then it took ages to locate Albert who was to receive me. It took over an hour to reach our destination – the Novotel (company-arranged) which is where I put up during my stay. I gave myself an hour to get freshened up since it was already nearing midday and then…I started my Paris sojourn. All this drama had not dimmed my excitement one iota; I kept thinking “I’m in Paris, I’m in Paris!”

Tip: The receiving area at the CDG airport is actually inside the airport itself. If you have reached the taxi ranks know that you have crossed that receiving lounge.

Tip: The Schengen visa process for France is a relatively simple one though it requires a lot of documents. You need to book an interview slot, be there to submit your documents, answer a few questions and get your biometric done. The visa should reach you in about 5/7 business days.

Day 1

Louvre-Monalisa-Street Music-Seine-Ile de la Cité-Notre Dame-Berthillon

I had planned extensively on what to do in the mere two days that I had to play tourist and I was eager to get started. You know what they say, “best laid plans…” I started out with my little “planner” diary but hit a literal roadblock almost immediately. The metro stop closest to my hotel was closed for renovation – in fact, so was a major chunk of the routes I had planned to use – since the day before. But, no worries, Google Map to the rescue; it was my savior then and throughout my trip! It rerouted me via buses/alternate metro stations to my 1^st stop of the day – collection of my passes/The Louvre Museum.

Passes

There are various types available online – Paris Pass, Paris City Pass, Paris Pass’lib, Museum Pass, Transport Pass being the most common ones. These passes allow you to visit most attractions for free, give discounts on some activities (cruise, shopping, eating) and most passes also have the additional “skip-the-line” advantage. Based on which attractions I wanted to visit and the time I had on hand, I chose the Museum Pass and the Transport Pass. These would cover all museums plus some added attractions and my inter-city travel respectively; cost was also the most optimized.

Tip: The Paris Pass includes both travel and sightseeing but you will not be able to take full advantage of its benefits in only 2 days, trust me. It is also costlier than the Museum and Transport (2 days) pass combined.

Note: Eiffel Tower is not included in any of the passes, it requires a separate ticket altogether (which you can book online).

Street Music

I walked from the metro stop to the Tourist Office to collect my passes (ordered online). As I walked, I gazed at the buildings and streets – everything was so neat and colorful and just so pretty. On the way I chanced upon a group of musicians playing on the street – a mini orchestra with violins. I stood there and listened to the wonderfully melodious music for a while basking in the sunshine. I think I fell in love with Paris then.

Tip: Remember to pick up information booklets and city + transport maps of Paris from the Tourist Office. They are really helpful.

Armed with my passes, I walked to my first attraction of the day – The Louvre Museum. I skipped right to the front of the line due to my museum pass and entered the vast main hall, collected my tickets and an information booklet.

The LOUVRE

There are 3 wings in the Louvre – Denon, Richelieu and Sully – named after notable Frenchmen. Each of the wings is spread over 5 levels and houses an unimaginable plethora of paintings, sculptures, antiquities of varied styles and from various eras dating as far back as 4000 BC!!

The Denon wing contains many of the best-known works of art, the Richelieu wing has sculpture terraces and apartments of Napoléon III and the Sully wing focusses on the history of the Louvre.

The Louvre is vast and it is impossible to see everything in a day; in fact, it is said you would need atleast a week to visit each of the exhibits! Well, I had only a few hours so, predictably, I chose the Denon wing which, among others, housed the famous ‘Monalisa’. [Currently, the painting has been shifted to Galerie Médicis in the Richelieu wing.]

The Denon wing had some really wonderful sculptures and paintings which I thoroughly enjoyed. I actually lost track of time in wonderment of the diversified artwork and ended up spending over 3 hours there – and I had only covered a fraction! – but it was an amazing 3 hours.

I exited from the museum proper onto the courtyard in front of the famous Louvre glass pyramids and spent some time taking photos and feeling star-struck. I fondly remembered the last scene of the Dan Brown novel and (the movie buff and geek that I am) recalled the last poem,” The Holy Grail…”

The Louvre also includes the Carrousel and Tuileries Gardens and the Musée Eugène-Delacroix. They are situated at 5- and 15-minutes’ walk from the Louvre respectively. The Tuileries Gardens is known for its flower beds and shaded groves and is an open-air sculpture museum. Do visit these if you have the time; I didn’t since I spent way too much time inside the museum.

Monalisa

I may be crucified for what I am about to say but the Monalisa disappointed me; it didn’t really amaze me and left me puzzled as to its fame. But I am not an art connoisseur and am probably wrong. It is a small painting really, hanging solitary on a huge wall and cordoned off within 4 feet. There was quite a crowd in front of it, all snapping away gaily. I, however, did feel a sense of awe knowing that I was in the presence of the most famous work of the great Leonardo Da Vinci.

The one painting which I did love and was awed by was the Wedding Feast at Cana by Veronese which hangs on the opposite wall of Monalisa. Measuring 22 ft. by 32 ft. this painting was fascinating.

Île de la Cité and Seine

From the Louvre I took a bus to the next stop on my agenda – the Notre Dame Cathedral. The cathedral is located on “Île de la Cité”. The Ile de la Cite is an island which lies at the centre of Paris and is connected via bridges to the mainland. It is a charming place with cobbled streets, vibrant shopfronts and cute houses.

My bus stop was actually on this side of the Seine River and I walked across one of the bridges to the island. It was a pleasant stroll in the breezy afternoon and I stopped midway to enjoy the beautiful picture the river posed. There were several street performers on the bridge as well – singers, magicians (I enjoyed that for a few minutes) and guitarists. The atmosphere was such a joyful one!

NOTRE DAME

A few minutes’ walk into the Ile de la Cité will bring you to the Notre Dame Cathedral. It took almost 200 years to build this glory of Gothic architecture which was the largest religious building in western Europe until the mid-13^th century. This symbol of medieval Paris is a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Notre Dame allows free entry into the cathedral proper. As a result, the queues were huge on a Saturday – it would take me atleast 2 hours! So, I chose an alternative.

The towers of Notre Dame are its most famous feature. Victor Hugo’s famous novel The Hunchback of Notre Dame described them as “beautifully balanced parts of a magnificent whole”. This is where I headed. Entry to the towers are chargeable but I got free entry via my museum pass although there was no skip the line allowed and I had to stand in queue (much smaller one than the cathedral one). Visitors are allowed to go up in groups of 20 every 10 minutes.

To get to the top of the tower, I had to climb 400 steep steps which kept getting narrower the more I arose. The first stop was the Chimera gallery which gets its name from the statues gracing the façade; the most famous one is “styrga”.Next comes the south tower belfry which houses the cathedral’s 2 largest bells dating back to the 17^th century!

After the strenuous climb, I was awarded with the most stunning view – the entire city of Paris laid out in an incredible vista before me. I could see the Eiffel Tower, the gleaming Sacré-Coeur, the Seine and the pretty houses of Paris. It was one of the best experiences of Paris for me. I stayed there for ages just gazing out at the beautiful sight.

Crepes and Berthillon

It was now time for lunch. This was when I understood one thing about Parisians – they love and almost always eat, al fresco. You will find the inside of restaurants empty, but the outside tables brimming with patrons. But the Indian in me couldn’t bear to sit in the sun for so long – I ate inside. I chose French baguette ham sandwich and crepes for my meal. The baguette was melt in your mouth tasty and the crepe was to die for! Perfect introduction to French cuisine.

I followed up that delicious meal with ice cream from Paris’ famous shop Berthillon; one scoop of salted caramel and raspberry each. O my my, the cold creamy goodness made my day!

I wanted to end the day with shopping; however, when I made my way to this shopping district – Latin Quarter – all shops were closed!! So, I roamed the pretty streets just looking into and admiring storefronts before heading back to my hotel. On the way back, the bus stops confused me a bit and I got lost – Google maps turned me round and round in search of a particular bus stop for almost an hour! Thankfully, I spotted it in the end after which I called it a day.

Tip: Most shops (not restaurants) close by 7PM and are closed on Sundays as well, so plan your shopping stints accordingly.

Tip: Strange and notable thing about Paris bus stops – there may be a stop A and there may be a stop B but sometimes there may be a stop A-B. So, when you are looking for a hyphenated name most always it is an in between stop on a small by-road.

Day 2

Eiffel Tower-Orsay Museum-Saint Chapelle-Seine Cruise

I began the next day nice and early. The first agenda of the day – the Eiffel Tower!! A 45 minute metro ride and a 10 minute walk took me to Champs de Mars, the location of the Tower.

EIFFEL TOWER

The first sighting of the icon was when I was about 2 minutes away from the actual location and its sheer size amazed me. But the real wonder of it dawned on me when I finally stood in front of it. The Eiffel Tower was breathtaking! Towering 1063 ft. above ground, the wrought-iron lattice structure is a thing of beauty.

There are 3 levels – the top one being at 906 ft.! To buy tickets, I had to stand in line for almost 1.5 hours and the top level got filled out by the time it was my turn, unfortunately. There is a limit to people allowed on each level due to space crunch and top level being significantly narrower, gets crowded quite soon. I was told I could go up once it freed up a little. Though slightly disappointed, nothing could dampen my mood on this gorgeous sunny day.

Tip: The first 2 levels are part of the normal entry ticket while there is an extra charge for the top-level observation deck. Tickets can be bought online but remember to book it well in advance. Online tickets will state date and time and will save you standing in line.

I rode the lift to the first floor – it’s an angled rise along the “legs” of the tower. The elevator ride itself is an exhilarating experience. You can also take the stairs but it will be a daunting task – believe me because I climbed down them and the steps seem never ending. The view from the 1^st 2 levels of the tower is a phenomenal one. The 360-degree view of the Paris landscape is mesmerizing. I spent a long time simply admiring the view until it was time for me to leave.

At the base of the monument is a head statue of Gustave Eiffel, an ode to the creator of this incredible monument which is a wonder of the world.

Walks

After I descended from the tower, I spent some time photographing it from the lawns of Champs De Mars. I then walked to my lunch appointment with a relative. Walking in Paris was one of my favorite memories of the city. Colorful alleys shaded by trees and pretty houses all make the soul so happy. This time I had lunch al fresco keeping in trend with the Parisians – it was an enjoyable experience. Post lunch, we spent some time roaming the streets, over the numerous bridges – most notable The Pont Alexandre III. Strolling along the river with the breeze on my face will forever be etched on my mind. We ended up at my next sightseeing attraction – The Orsay Museum.

MUSEE D’ORSAY

The Orsay Museum is a renovated railway station which was inaugurated for the World Fair 1900. It was converted to a museum in 1986. It boasts of a diverse range of paintings, sculptures, photography which represent the evolution of western world art from 1848 to 1914.

Orsay Museum was more my kind of museum – I admired and just loved the paintings because I understood them, they were more identifiable and overall appealed to my novice senses. Monet’s famous “Blue Water Lilies” resides here and is enthralling to look at. Degas, Manet, Van Gogh, Gauguin – amazing collections of these famous artists blew my mind. I enjoyed wholly and whole heartedly here. The high arched ceilings draw your gaze while what captures your heart is the massive Victorian station clock at the end of the building – a remnant of the original building. This is a definite must visit, I recommend!

SAINTE CHAPELLE

After spending almost the whole 2^nd half of the afternoon at the Orsay, I made my way to the last attraction of the day – the Saint Chapelle.

Located in the center of Île de la Cité, the Saint Chapelle is a royal chapel of the Palais de la Cité. It was built between 1242 and 1248 as per Louis IX’s wishes to house the relics of the Passion of Christ. The relics were displayed in the upper chapel while the lower chapel was a place of worship for the palace staff.

Today, the lower chapel houses a statue of the Virgin Mary and, on its left wall, the oldest wall painting in Paris – a 13^th century fresco depicting the Annunciation. The upper chapel is a thing of wonder – its brilliance leaves you dumbstruck! The reason is the famous stained-glass windows which are breathtaking.

The 15 tall, arched and glamorous stained-glass windows contain 1113 scenes depicting the story of mankind from Genesis to Christ’s resurrection. 14 of these are to be read left to right, from bottom upwards, while the 15^th which tells the story of the relics are read boustrophedonically. Boustrophedonically means reading from bottom upwards and alternate lines are read in opposite directions – left to right then right to left. The windows left me gaping at them while I tried to absorb the magnificence of the shimmering and dancing colours and patterns.

SEINE Cruise

My last activity of the day was a different kind of sightseeing – a cruise. I took a cruise on the Seine river. The cruises run from 10.30am-10pm and are of three types – lunch, dinner or plain sightseeing. I chose the last one. There are various companies offering their services but upon reading reviews I settled on Bateaux Parisiens.

Aboard the deck of the panoramic boat, I looked up at the towering Eiffel again and admired it – the cruises depart from the foot of the monument. One glance at this wonder is simply not enough. Once the cruise began, though, I had a lot else to look at. The 1-hour ride with commentary was another memorable experience in Paris. The wind in your hair while you glide through the water, under arching – and sometimes dangerously low – bridges, with the pretty city of Paris surrounding you – it is just the most amazing feeling! The tour gave glimpses of Les Invalides, La Place de la Concorde, L’Assemblée Nationale, La Conciergerie among others.

All too soon, we were turning back to return to our starting point but not before one last surprise. As evening fell and we approached the end of the cruise, the Eiffel Tower lit up in welcome and did its light dance – they sparkled and winked for 5 minutes and was the perfect end to my cruise and the day. My love for Paris was cemented in place.

Day 3 & 4

Work-French Food-Bye

This was a work trip and that’s what took up most of the next 2 days – work and some more work. However, at lunch and the end of each day, we i.e. my colleagues and I went out for French food. Those 4 meals were filled with classic French cuisine – confit duck, flammekueche, a fabulous starter with pork fat tuna and last but not the least – blue cheese! The foodie in me was entirely satisfied.

After 4 ½ days in Paris, it was then time to say goodbye to this beautiful city which had made a permanent place in my heart.

Some places which I missed out on due to scarcity of time, are mentioned below.

In summary, for a 2-day Paris trip:

Day 1: Louvre, Tuileries Garden, Notre Dame (do not miss the tower!), Arc de Triomphe & Champs-Élysées, Pantheon, shopping.
Day 2: Eiffel Tower, Orsay Museum, Sacré-Cœur, Saint Chapelle, Seine Cruise.

They say “there’s a museum at every corner in Paris”, so be sure to take in your quota of atleast 2-3 museums when in Paris. I had sorely wanted to visit the Palace of Versailles but it is located quite a bit outside the city and the journey to and from would be about 3 hours. Sadly, I had to let that dream go.

2 days barely scratches the surface of Paris but it will give you a taste and feel of what an amazing city it is and will leave you wanting more. I know that I am definitely going back there some day for an encore.

Tip: There is fear of pickpockets in most of the tourist spots, so it is advisable to not use backpacks; rather wear your bag cross-bodied and keep your belongings close to you and within your eyesight at all times. This is something a lot of people have advised me including resident Parisians.

A Glitzy Evening in DUBAI

Asia, Dubai, Travel / By Nils / March 10, 2020 July 26, 2021

One never forgets their first international trip, I believe. A scope to see what the world outside your world looks and functions like. Dubai was a realization of fantasies, of images transforming to actual 3D! When the opportunity to visit Dubai arose as part of my work, I jumped at the chance. I waited with bated breath for the day to arrive when I would fly over international waters (not literally in this case).

Godspeed

Arrival-Fancy Lodgings

I arrived in Dubai late on a Sunday evening along with a colleague (my boss to be precise). It is just over 3 hours from Mumbai to DXB airport. We flew Emirates which, in my opinion, is the best airlines ever. Visa procedure is quite simple for UAE; in my case it had been arranged by my company.

Tip: Single females need to get a permission slip signed by their guardian for travel to UAE. However, the rule may have changed in the last 5 years, please check the same.

We stayed at The Sheraton Hotel, Deira. Deira is the erstwhile commercial center of Dubai. It is an area which caters to tourists with its many hotels and restaurants. Since the booking was done by my company, I did no research for this part. I can say though, this was a superb hotel with an amazing breakfast spread!! For me, that was the standout. Location wise it was great as well, since it was surrounded on all sides with restaurants and shops within walking distance. The main tourist attractions were also close by – a 20-minute cab ride away.

All That Glitters

First look-Teaser

My first impression was that Dubai was so shiny! Everything gleamed and twinkled as we made our way from the airport to the hotel. The roads were wonderful, there was no traffic to speak of, and all around me glass and chrome buildings sparkled. I couldn’t wait to go out and explore this magnificent city.

In the backdrop of all this was the heat. Even in the month of September, it was crazy hot in Dubai (and I’m from India!). In the daytime, the “loo” wind was like a sharp slap to the face – oppressively hot. It is only then you are reminded of the fact that Dubai is in fact a desert. Other than that, the opulence of the city, the brilliant greenery (which is missing in Mumbai even) can make one easily forget that the Emirates are supposed to be a desert.

All Work and No Play

Work-but yummy food

The first 3 days in Dubai were spent in work – 9 to 7 – meetings, work, work and some more work. Those first 3 days, most I saw of Dubai were the streets, inside of cabs and the hotel room. I did get some chance to go out for dinners to the nearby restaurants in Deira and try out Arabic and middle-eastern cuisine. It was lip-smackingly delicious – kababs, breads and hummus!

We did go for some shopping in local supermarkets and gift shops. There was nothing to write home about in those shops but buying even normal stuff in a foreign country feels so thrilling!!

Tip: For foreign currency, in my experience, the best way is to use your credit card for payment rather than forex cards because in the end the card payment comes cheaper after exchange rates and GST.

Good Things Come To Those Who Wait

Dubai Mall-Burj Khalifa-the Souks

Finally, though, the day arrived when I could play tourist. On the penultimate day in Dubai, we got off work early. So, we set off to explore Dubai. We headed to the Dubai Mall and the Burj Khalifa.

Dubai Mall

Dubai Mall is the second largest shopping mall in the world and hosts top brands of any imaginable category. It is so huge that simply walking from one end to the other would take hours! We took quite a bit of stops in between at various shops especially the candy shop. So many varieties of candy – it is very tempting to even grownups let alone children.

The mall houses the Dubai Aquarium and Underwater Zoo, which apparently has 300 species of marine life. I unfortunately did not enter the actual zoo due to lack of time, but I did see the aquarium. I stood gawping at the beautiful and varied collection of fishes for ages. Do visit this place from the inside when you are there.

It also has a beautiful wall of waterfall that is a piece of artwork. In addition, the mall has direct access to the Burj Khalifa, which is located right beside it. The “At the Top” entrance to the Burj Khalifa is actually inside the mall itself. You can purchase tickets to the top view decks from inside the mall.

Tip: Tickets for top deck view were for $95 – 4 years ago. If you book in advance online, they are much cheaper.

There is also an air-conditioned footbridge which connects the Mall metro station to the mall directly. With so much going on, the Dubai Mall is a must-visit on a trip to Dubai if only to be amazed by its sheer size!

Burj Khalifa

The iconic landmark of Dubai, Burj Khalifa is the tallest building in the world. It stands tall at more than 2700 ft. while its spire is another ~2700 ft. The Burj Khalifa is 165 stories high and includes commercial, corporate and residential floors. At the top, it has viewing decks open for tourists which gives a panoramic view of the entire city of Dubai.

I, however, did not get the time to go upto the view decks. I did go to the front of the building and oh my! Let me tell you it is a sight to behold! Calling it huge is an understatement but craning your neck up to look at the lit-up façade is an amazing feeling.

Tip: You aren’t allowed to stop in front of the structure for only viewing purposes, so the best photo-taking opportunity is to enter nearby streets and stop for a while.

The Souks

The last day in Dubai, we had just an evening free before our flight back to India. We decided to visit the famous Dubai “Souks” i.e. markets. There are three main bazaars – Gold Souk, Spice Souk and Perfume Souk. What amazing sights we got to see!!

If I’d thought Dubai glittering before, it was nothing compared to the souks. Dazzling with colors of all kinds, it was a place to get lost in wonder. The blindingly bright gold souk with series of gold shops on both sides of the long canopied street, beckoned me. Even though I was sorely tempted, I resisted and did not buy anything.

Tip: Even though the 24k gold is cheaper than elsewhere, the making charges are actually higher than in India. Do keep that in mind while gold shopping. Also, customs only allows Rs. 50,000 worth of stuff to be imported into India.

The spice souk is an assault on the senses – colors and smells of varying kinds. Cinnamon, cardamom, cloves and the most famous of all – saffron. Saffron is of the highest quality here and at very reasonable prices.

Lastly, my favorite one – the perfume souk! The shops here were so attractive! There were rows and rows of perfumes in fancy bottles lined up on the shelves. We chose a shop at random and entered. I had such a gala time there exploring the innumerable perfumes. Sweet, spicy, sharp, subtle – you name it they had it. I bought 4 types of perfumes which they packed for me in these cute tiny bottles. To this day, they are one of the best fragrances I have ever used.

Apart from these main ones, there were the usual touristy shops and I did buy a few mementos – magnets, postcards, keyrings and the like.

Tip: Be ready to haggle and choose wisely.

Alvida

The time in Dubai seemed to be over so quickly. All too soon, it was time to return home. Before that, one last memory of Dubai was its airport. Dubai Airport is enormous and is a mall in itself. Roaming the shops was quite a good time and I did some duty free shopping of chocolates, make-up and more perfume (eek!). An apt way to say good-bye to this city.

TUMLING – Where Charm Meets Rustic Simplicity

Asia, India, Travel, West Bengal / By Nils / February 3, 2020 July 26, 2021

There are a few experiences we all wish to have some day. Call it the Bucket List if you will. One such wish of mine was to be in the midst of live snowfall. I hail from Kolkata in India and the coldest we get there is 10 deg. C. Snowfall was like a fantasy to me. My first experience with snowfall was in Auli, Himachal Pradesh. But that did not lessen the wonder and joy I felt when it started to snow on the way to Sandakphu from Tumling.

I visited Tumling with my family during the 1st week of January this year. It was a 2-day visit but it was an experience of a lifetime! It is such a quaint and picturesque village that I felt like simply roaming the streets and just staring in wonder at the beauty that surrounded me. Tumling has a rustic charm that beckoned me and got me hooked.

Day 1

Maneybhanjyang-Land Rover-Tumling

We traveled to Tumling in a hired car (pre-booked) from Darjeeling. The car took us only upto Manebhanjyang, a pit stop for every traveler. It takes about 1.5 hrs to reach there – a distance of 26 kms. The drive is a pleasant one, with cold winds and amazing views of the Himalayas.

Tip: The fare from Darjeeling is in the range of Rs. 1500-2000 but do negotiate on this, especially if it is off-season.

Beyond Maneybhanjyang, conveyance is all under the control of the Land Rover Owners Welfare Association. There is no option other than hiring a car from the association. The rates for the cars are fixed based on your end destination, whether it is a round trip and whether or not you want the car to stay “overnight”. There are 2 types of cars available – an actual Land Rover or a Bolero (4-wheel drive); allocation is based on your destination (Tonglu/Tumling or Sandakphu).

Tip: Overnight means, the same car will be back the next morning to pick you up; the car doesn’t actually stay overnight. So be sure to let your driver know of your early morning plans if any. (In case your end destination is Sandakphu, then the car will stay over.)

Car rate card for Singalila National Park destinations

We hired a car for Sandakphu. This was actually a spur of the moment decision, one we were both thankful and regretful for the next day. I’ll explain why further on.

Tumling

Tumling is a tiny village located on the border between India and Nepal at an altitude of 2970 m (~9750 ft). It is an open border and you never even realize when you cross over to another country altogether. There is a stone pillar-ish outcrop that says “BHARAT” meaning, India. So the road to the village belongs to India but the actual village is in fact in Nepal.

It is a part of the Singalila National Park. To enter the national park, we were charged a fee of Rs. 100 per person and per car, per day. Singalila hosts a wide variety of flora and fauna, the most noted of which is the Red Panda. We, however, did not have the fortune to encounter one.

On the way to Tumling, we stopped at the village of Meghma to visit a famous monastery around 70 yrs old. Sadly the monastery itself was closed for prayer. But OMG the views from there are stunning and worth a visit for that reason itself! And there’s a cute little shaded bench on the edge on the mountain, where you can sit for eons and enjoy the view.

Reaching Tumling at about noon – 1 hour 15 minutes from Manyebhanjan – we were met with freezing weather and biting cold winds. But the village itself looked like a picture postcard! The car bumped along broken roads to drop us at our hotel – Shikhar Lodge.

Tip: Shikhar Lodge is a picturesque lodge with great services. Other lodges in Tumling are – Siddhartha Lodge, Satkar Lodge and Mountain Lodge.

Dumping our luggage, we took a walk about the area. The cold was enervating and we embraced it. We took some snaps against our cute little lodge, of the fabulous views of the hills and of us smothered under layers! Lunch consisted of simple homemade food – rice, daal, sabji and egg curry. The smoking hot, delicious meal was the perfect antidote to such cold weather.

Post lunch, we took off to explore this picturesque village. Tumling has only about 10-15 houses altogether, including lodges and teensy shops. Time slid away as we walked along the village road with a breathtaking mountain panorama spread out in front of us. We walked up the road leading to Sandakphu, upto a small temple at the crest of that road, where prayer flags fluttered wildly in the breeze. It was an enjoyable walk and the view coupled with the cold was wonderfully refreshing.

Evening was colder still so the lodge guys lit a fire for us creating a warm cozy atmosphere. Hot tea and pakodas while roasting our hands in front of the fire! That was a memorable evening and exactly what you’d imagine when visiting such places.

Tip: Wear layers – thermals, jackets, sweaters – as well caps, gloves and socks. Cover your nose as that keeps the warmth within.

Tip: Lodges are basic so be prepared. It would be better to have meals at the lodge itself since there aren’t any restaurants around, only one small snacks shop making momos and the like.

Day 2

Sunrise that wasn’t-unreachable Sandakphu-Snowfall!!

We woke up at 5 am and layered up to go out and watch the sunrise. Breaths freezing in our lungs – ZERO degrees!! – we climbed the mountain. Alas! It was a cloudy day and we couldn’t see a thing. On a clear day, the sun-rays sparkling on the Kanchenjunga would have made for a stupendous view – a golden Sleeping Buddha!

Tip: Be sure to catch the sunset in the evening.

Sandakphu

Sandakphu is the highest peak in West Bengal (India) and Mechi (Nepal). It is known for its magnificent views of four of the world’s highest peaks – Mt. Everest, Mt. Kanchenjunga, Mt. Makalu and Mt. Lhotse. Sandakphu-Phalut is a popular trekking destination – the route beginning in Maneybhanjan and going through Tumling. Nowhere else in the world will you have this privilege of looking at the highest peaks of the world at the same time!

It was a cloudy day and there were forecasts of bad weather as the day wore on. Our car arrived late and we had to make a decision whether to abort our Sandakphu plan or not. Ultimately, we decided to take the risk – we would go until the point where it was feasible and then get back.

This journey offered us a different type of scenery – towering oaks and rhododendrons creating an arched pathway for us. This drive was one of the most scenic I have ever experienced. And then, partway into the ride, it started to snow.

Wow!! We started in wonder at the snow as it rapidly carpeted the road. We stuck out our hands and tried to catch the snow (so childish I know!). Stopping at some random place, we got off to take some photos. But it was so cold, so cold that we got back into the warmth of the car pretty quickly. Crossing Jaubari, Gairibas and Kayakatta, we reached Kalapokhri, a mere 5 kms away from Sandakphu.

Kalapokhri was beautiful; it has a small holy lake and a cute temple residing among the mountains. It was beyond FREEZING by the time we reached there and snowing heavily. My hands were numb and my fingers barely moved as I tried taking photos. Standing in the midst of the buffeting wind and snow though, that feeling was unparalleled.

We spent about 15 minutes there after which the cold forced us to retreat into the car. Going further was pointless and risky so we decided to turn back from Kalapokhri. The journey back was fraught with tension. We were held up for a long time, since other cars were stuck in the 4-inch deep snow. Eventually we reached Tumling, picked up our luggage and drove back to Maneybhanjyang, and further onto Siliguri for our return to Mumbai the next day.

We regretted not being able to see the view from Sandakphu but boy were we thankful we got to experience the snow! It was a superb adventure!

Tip: The drive to Sandakphu is about 2.5 hours from Tumling and about 1.5 hours to return. Maneybhanjyang to Sandakphu return trip is about 6-7 hours. So, plan your trip accordingly. You can even stay at Sandakphu itself, it has homestays.

If you are looking for a vacation to a place off the beaten path, look no further than this charming village straddling the border. It is THE idyllic vacation which will relax and freshen your mind.

3 days in Darjeeling – the Queen of Hills

Asia, India, Travel, West Bengal / By Nils / January 21, 2020 July 26, 2021

Year-end trips are a way of refreshing the mind and recharging our batteries for the year ahead. I bid adieu to 2019 and welcomed 2020 in the lap of nature – Darjeeling and the tiny border village of Tumling.

There is a multitude of information on the internet on what to do when in Darjeeling. What I am trying to do here is to share my experience, which entails how to make the best of your short holiday. I went online, asked friends and acquaintances to gather information. Based on this extensive research I planned my itinerary – 3 days in Darjeeling and a short side trip to an offbeat place nearby.

We i.e. my family and myself flew from Kolkata to Bagdogra airport in Siliguri – a short flight of 1 hr. – from where we took a pre-booked cab to reach Darjeeling.

Tip: The other way to reach Siliguri is via train upto NJP (New Jalpaiguri) Station.

Tip: You can easily hire a car outside the airport – there will be no shortage. But please do haggle on the fares because they may quote high prices. Bagdogra/NJP to Darjeeling should cost around Rs. 3500 by car. Make sure to reach Bagdogra or NJP before noon, so that you can reach your end destination within evening. It is advisable to not drive after dark.

It’s said, “It’s the journey that matters, not the destination”. As we traveled over the scenic mountain roads, this certainly was the case. Lush green tea gardens, towering pine trees and snow-capped mountains in the distance – eventually drawing close as we drove from a mere 400 ft to an altitude of 6800 ft. I could feel the change in weather as well – from the hot sunny weather in Siliguri to the evening chill of 4° C in Darjeeling.

Tip: Be sure to be suitably attired for this weather with jackets, scarves, gloves and hats. Layer more as night falls with thermal-wear.

Day 1

Evening-tea-mall walk-Glenary’s

After checking in at our hotel we had a cup of refreshing evening tea – we Bengalis love our tea morning and evening! We then set off to explore. Walking to the Mall, we enjoyed the biting cold, our breaths freezing in the sharp evening air.

Tip: Gandhi Road is one of the best areas to stay in, because of its nearness to the Mall and Chowrasta; it’s also a walking distance from the Chauk Bazaar and Taxi Stand as well.

The Mall

The Mall is a burst of color and activity – shops selling winter clothes, tea, curios, paintings and what not. I felt like ducking into each of the shops to look at their offerings – there is so much to look at and take in! We did a little bit of window shopping and soaking in the lively atmosphere – this place has an attraction of its own.

Tip: Most shops on the Mall close by 8 PM in the evening (some e.g. Golden Tips, pop-up winter clothes stores, etc. do remain open till later). Make sure to do all your shopping – window or otherwise – by then. Restaurants mostly close by 10.30 PM, some even before that, so getting a seat is hard after 8:00 especially in peak season.

Glenary’s

We capped off our first day with dinner at Glenary’s. Glenary’s is known for its bakery but the food here is delicious as well. Roast pork, fried chicken and mixed chowmein was utterly yummy. There is live music as well – it’s wonderful being serenaded while you eat! Do visit Glenary’s when you are in Darjeeling – it’s a must do!

Day 2

Kanchenjunga-Keventers-Ghoom Monastery-Lamahatta-Tribeni-Peace Pagoda/Japanese Temple

Kanchenjunga

Next morning was a gift from the mountain gods. As I woke up and looked outside my window, I was greeted by the majestic Mt. Kanchenjunga in all its glory! What a breathtaking view it was! There stood the 3^rd highest mountain in the world at such close quarters – sparkling white against the pristine blue sky. Wow – I stood there gazing at that wonder for eons. This was the highlight of my visit.

The day was planned for sightseeing points close-by. We booked a car via the hotel itself for a half- day tour to 4 points.

Tip: You can talk to your hotel; they will arrange a car for day tour of Darjeeling. It should cost around Rs. 3500 for 5 points trip.

Keventer’s

We breakfasted that day at the famous Keventer’s. Located at the entry point of the Mall, it’s known for its drool worthy breakfast and snacks. What I had was the pork platter – sausages, bacon, ham, salami and fried egg – and coffee. They were super yummy!

Tip: Platters are available in chicken as well. The hot chocolate is also worth a taste, my sister says.

Ghoom Monastery

Samten Choling, the new Ghoom Monastery (old one is called Yiga Choeling) is located on the Hill Cart Road, about 20 minutes away from Darjeeling. On reaching, one needs to climb down a number of steps to reach a large open space accommodating the monastery. The steps are not in good condition so mind your step! This white building with a golden top houses a huge idol of Lord Buddha at its centre. Spend a few minutes admiring the ancient paintings on the walls. The serene and quiet atmosphere had a calming effect on me.

Lamahatta

Lamahatta is about an hour’s drive (~25kms) from Darjeeling. The main attraction here is its eco-tourism – a picturesque eco-forest on the slopes of a mountain with an abundance of pine trees. Until a year ago, there were several short trekking routes to reach the mountain top, however now there is a 1 km pre-marked trekking route to the sacred pond. It is a pleasant trek with an amazing view though the pond is not really a big deal. The forest makes for some pretty pictures with its tall trees and the sun shining through the gaps. Walking on the cobbled path, I felt like an adventurer – climbing up in search of the pond.

Tribeni

Tribeni is the confluence of 2 rivers – Teesta and Rangit. This sightseeing point is basically a viewpoint of that confluence. It is a beautiful sight – the blue-green waters mixing into one another. The subtle shade difference – which arises due to different densities and content – makes for an alluring picture.

Tip: Optional activity is rafting on the Rangit river but in the month of December this is something we opted not to do.

Japanese Temple and Peace Pagoda

Last stop of the day was the Japanese Temple and the Peace Pagoda. They are situated in the same compound and is in Darjeeling itself. The temple is guarded by 2 white stone lion statues and the main temple is on the 1^st floor. We were fortunate enough to take part in the evening prayer where we played a musical instrument as part of prayer; a racquet like thing to be struck with a wooden stick to the rhythm of their prayer song. It is soothing and so utterly peaceful. While leaving we were given “nakuldana” prasad. The temple houses golden statues of Lord Buddha.

Peace Pagoda perches atop 40 odd steps a few metres away from the temple – a white stone structure with a huge golden statue of Lord Buddha. There are other statues depicting various avatars of Lord Buddha but unfortunately, I did not go up close because by then it was freezing cold and we were too tired to climb the stairs. Make sure you do visit the Pagoda from close quarters.

After the car dropped us back and we had had a little rest, we went shopping on the mall. Keychains, prayer flags, magnets, wind chimes, shawls, jewellery – we got some of each. You just cannot resist all the cute and colorful knick-knacks. That night, we cut a cake from Glenary’s to inaugurate the new year. Happy 2020!

Tip: Do haggle with the shopkeepers for these momentos and be sure to check all shops before buying.

Day 3

Toy train-Cable Car

Toy Train (DHR)

The 1^st day of 2020 was a throwback to childhood and an ode to Bollywood. We rode the Toy Train from Darjeeling to Ghum and back! As a child, I used to love trains.

Originally used as a mode of transportation between New Jalpaiguri and Darjeeling districts, it is now run as only joyrides. It is called the Darjeeling Himalayan Railways (DHR), a UNESCO World heritage site. These are narrow gauge trains, which are either steam or diesel fueled. The DHR climbs from sea level to a height of 7407ft at Darjeeling via several loops, zigzags and Z-reverses to combat the terrain and gain altitude.

The most famous of the loops is the Batasia Loop which is now a sightseeing point and the 1^st stop on the Darjeeling-Ghum-Darjeeling train. It includes a beautiful garden and a War Memorial. The view from the loop is scenic.

Tip: The train gives a 10 minute stop here but you can visit this place separately as part of your half-day sightseeing tour.

The next stop is Ghum station (7407 ft) for a duration of 30 minutes. You can get off here, explore Ghum, and then return on your own steam to Darjeeling or take this same train back (included in the fare). We used those 30 minutes to have a look through the small one-room Ghum Museum (free of cost), which has some very interesting information and pictures about the DHR and the way it works. I found this tiny museum utterly charming and the train trivia fascinated me.

Tip: The whole journey is 2 hours long and there are several trains per day.

Back to Darjeeling by noon, we spent the rest of the day just roaming around Darjeeling since we had already visited all the other places worth seeing on our last trip. The last thing we wanted to do in Darjeeling was ride the Darjeeling Ropeway. Unfortunately, we couldn’t due to lack of tickets. The Ropeway takes you from Singamari (~7000ft) to Singla Bazar (~800 ft) and has beautiful views of the Rangit river valley.

Tip: If you want to ride these cable cars, be sure to book your tickets in the morning itself because they tend to get sold out by evening. Also, there are long queues so be prepared for a significant wait.

Tip: You can also visit the following places during your second day in Darjeeling. We had already been to these during our last trip few years ago.

The Padmaja Naidu Himalayan Zoological Park (Darjeeling Zoo) houses varied species of animals including Red Pandas, Tibetan Wolf and the Royal Bengal Tiger.

The Himalayan Mountaineering Institute has a museum which has memorabilia belonging to Tenzing Norgay, the Sherpa who was one of the first 2 people to climb Mt. Everest. It has other artifacts and information pertaining to mountains and mountaineering. These two are worth a visit. They are entered via the same gate and has a common entrance fee.

Happy Valley Tea Estate contains rolling tea gardens over the hilly slopes of Darjeeling. They have a tour of their tea-picking, processing and manufacturing stages in their estate, which ends with a tea tasting. We came away from our visit to this pretty tea estate with newfound knowledge on the various types of tea, which is the best and how to recognize good tea. This is a must do while in Darjeeling!

The most known sightseeing place which most people go to is the Tiger Hill – to watch the sunrise. But from what we had heard it is just a big hype and it anyway gets too crowded, so we gave this a miss.

Tip: One last thing I would recommend is walking on the roads of Darjeeling beyond the Mall. Just to walk among the mountains in that chilly air refreshes and relaxes you like nothing else can.

Summing up, your 3 day itinerary should ideally include:

Day 1 – Travel, Mall

Day 2 – Sunrise @ Tiger Hill (if you so wish), Ghoom Monastery, Batasia Loop (if you aren’t riding on the toy train), Lamahatta, Tribeni, Japanese Temple and Peace Pagoda

Day 3 – Toy Train, Zoo and HMI, Happy Valley Tea Estate and the Ropeway.

Must Eats: Thukpa, Momo, Glenary’s cakes and rum chocolates and Tibetan food from Kunga.

From Darjeeling, we traveled to a village called Tumling located on the Indo-Nepal border, about 73 kms away. If you wish to know more about this side trip, keep watching this space!

PARIS – of Towers, Gargoyles and Crepes!

Like this: