TUMLING – Where Charm Meets Rustic Simplicity

There are a few experiences we all wish to have some day. Call it the Bucket List if you will. One such wish of mine was to be in the midst of live snowfall. I hail from Kolkata in India and the coldest we get there is 10 deg. C. Snowfall was like a fantasy to me. My first experience with snowfall was in Auli, Himachal Pradesh. But that did not lessen the wonder and joy I felt when it started to snow on the way to Sandakphu from Tumling.

I visited Tumling with my family during the 1st week of January this year. It was a 2-day visit but it was an experience of a lifetime! It is such a quaint and picturesque village that I felt like simply roaming the streets and just staring in wonder at the beauty that surrounded me. Tumling has a rustic charm that beckoned me and got me hooked.

Day 1

Maneybhanjyang-Land Rover-Tumling

We traveled to Tumling in a hired car (pre-booked) from Darjeeling. The car took us only upto Manebhanjyang, a pit stop for every traveler. It takes about 1.5 hrs to reach there – a distance of 26 kms. The drive is a pleasant one, with cold winds and amazing views of the Himalayas.

Tip: The fare from Darjeeling is in the range of Rs. 1500-2000 but do negotiate on this, especially if it is off-season.

Beyond Maneybhanjyang, conveyance is all under the control of the Land Rover Owners Welfare Association. There is no option other than hiring a car from the association. The rates for the cars are fixed based on your end destination, whether it is a round trip and whether or not you want the car to stay “overnight”. There are 2 types of cars available – an actual Land Rover or a Bolero (4-wheel drive); allocation is based on your destination (Tonglu/Tumling or Sandakphu).

Tip: Overnight means, the same car will be back the next morning to pick you up; the car doesn’t actually stay overnight. So be sure to let your driver know of your early morning plans if any. (In case your end destination is Sandakphu, then the car will stay over.)

We hired a car for Sandakphu. This was actually a spur of the moment decision, one we were both thankful and regretful for the next day. I’ll explain why further on.

Tumling

Tumling is a tiny village located on the border between India and Nepal at an altitude of 2970 m (~9750 ft). It is an open border and you never even realize when you cross over to another country altogether. There is a stone pillar-ish outcrop that says “BHARAT” meaning, India. So the road to the village belongs to India but the actual village is in fact in Nepal.

It is a part of the Singalila National Park. To enter the national park, we were charged a fee of Rs. 100 per person and per car, per day. Singalila hosts a wide variety of flora and fauna, the most noted of which is the Red Panda. We, however, did not have the fortune to encounter one.

On the way to Tumling, we stopped at the village of Meghma to visit a famous monastery around 70 yrs old. Sadly the monastery itself was closed for prayer. But OMG the views from there are stunning and worth a visit for that reason itself! And there’s a cute little shaded bench on the edge on the mountain, where you can sit for eons and enjoy the view.

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Reaching Tumling at about noon – 1 hour 15 minutes from Manyebhanjan – we were met with freezing weather and biting cold winds. But the village itself looked like a picture postcard! The car bumped along broken roads to drop us at our hotel – Shikhar Lodge.

Tip: Shikhar Lodge is a picturesque lodge with great services. Other lodges in Tumling are – Siddhartha Lodge, Satkar Lodge and Mountain Lodge.

Dumping our luggage, we took a walk about the area. The cold was enervating and we embraced it. We took some snaps against our cute little lodge, of the fabulous views of the hills and of us smothered under layers! Lunch consisted of simple homemade food – rice, daal, sabji and egg curry. The smoking hot, delicious meal was the perfect antidote to such cold weather.

Post lunch, we took off to explore this picturesque village. Tumling has only about 10-15 houses altogether, including lodges and teensy shops. Time slid away as we walked along the village road with a breathtaking mountain panorama spread out in front of us. We walked up the road leading to Sandakphu, upto a small temple at the crest of that road, where prayer flags fluttered wildly in the breeze. It was an enjoyable walk and the view coupled with the cold was wonderfully refreshing.

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Evening was colder still so the lodge guys lit a fire for us creating a warm cozy atmosphere. Hot tea and pakodas while roasting our hands in front of the fire! That was a memorable evening and exactly what you’d imagine when visiting such places.

Tip: Wear layers – thermals, jackets, sweaters – as well caps, gloves and socks. Cover your nose as that keeps the warmth within.

Tip: Lodges are basic so be prepared. It would be better to have meals at the lodge itself since there aren’t any restaurants around, only one small snacks shop making momos and the like.

Day 2

Sunrise that wasn’t-unreachable Sandakphu-Snowfall!!

We woke up at 5 am and layered up to go out and watch the sunrise. Breaths freezing in our lungs – ZERO degrees!! – we climbed the mountain. Alas! It was a cloudy day and we couldn’t see a thing. On a clear day, the sun-rays sparkling on the Kanchenjunga would have made for a stupendous view – a golden Sleeping Buddha!

Tip: Be sure to catch the sunset in the evening.

Sandakphu

Sandakphu is the highest peak in West Bengal (India) and Mechi (Nepal). It is known for its magnificent views of four of the world’s highest peaks – Mt. Everest, Mt. Kanchenjunga, Mt. Makalu and Mt. Lhotse. Sandakphu-Phalut is a popular trekking destination – the route beginning in Maneybhanjan and going through Tumling. Nowhere else in the world will you have this privilege of looking at the highest peaks of the world at the same time!

It was a cloudy day and there were forecasts of bad weather as the day wore on. Our car arrived late and we had to make a decision whether to abort our Sandakphu plan or not. Ultimately, we decided to take the risk – we would go until the point where it was feasible and then get back.

This journey offered us a different type of scenery – towering oaks and rhododendrons creating an arched pathway for us. This drive was one of the most scenic I have ever experienced. And then, partway into the ride, it started to snow.

Wow!! We started in wonder at the snow as it rapidly carpeted the road. We stuck out our hands and tried to catch the snow (so childish I know!). Stopping at some random place, we got off to take some photos. But it was so cold, so cold that we got back into the warmth of the car pretty quickly. Crossing Jaubari, Gairibas and Kayakatta, we reached Kalapokhri, a mere 5 kms away from Sandakphu.

Kalapokhri was beautiful; it has a small holy lake and a cute temple residing among the mountains. It was beyond FREEZING by the time we reached there and snowing heavily. My hands were numb and my fingers barely moved as I tried taking photos. Standing in the midst of the buffeting wind and snow though, that feeling was unparalleled.

We spent about 15 minutes there after which the cold forced us to retreat into the car. Going further was pointless and risky so we decided to turn back from Kalapokhri. The journey back was fraught with tension. We were held up for a long time, since other cars were stuck in the 4-inch deep snow. Eventually we reached Tumling, picked up our luggage and drove back to Maneybhanjyang, and further onto Siliguri for our return to Mumbai the next day.

We regretted not being able to see the view from Sandakphu but boy were we thankful we got to experience the snow! It was a superb adventure!

Tip: The drive to Sandakphu is about 2.5 hours from Tumling and about 1.5 hours to return. Maneybhanjyang to Sandakphu return trip is about 6-7 hours. So, plan your trip accordingly. You can even stay at Sandakphu itself, it has homestays.

If you are looking for a vacation to a place off the beaten path, look no further than this charming village straddling the border. It is THE idyllic vacation which will relax and freshen your mind.