Travel

The Highest Ground – An 8-day Lahaul-Spiti Experience Part 2

Asia, Himalayas, India, Travel / By / April 18, 2022

The year – 2019. The place – Himachal Pradesh. The travelers – my husband and myself.

We were on Day 4 of our trip. Read about the first 3 days and the first part of Day 4 here.

Day 4 Continued...

DHANKAR

Immediately on arriving, we embarked on our hiking quest; destination – Dhankar Lake. It usually takes about 3 hours total to complete the trek. We needed to climb up one hill, and go down the other side where the lake lay and then come back the same way. It was high afternoon and extremely sunny and hot, so we carried supplies like water and biscuits. We crested the hill, saw the lake from afar and then made our way back; all in less than 2 hours.

The trek itself was a satisfying one; the amazing scenery, the adrenaline high and the adventure was wonderfully enervating. But, the lake was a let-down to be honest. There was barely any water and one lone stupa guarded it. This, plus the heat and hunger, prevented us from going all the way down and so we made an early escape. Back down, we had lunch in a blessedly cool eatery and recharged our batteries.

Tip: Post monsoons, the lake would be lovely and should be worth a visit. Carry sunblock and hats, shades and wear comfortable shoes for your trek. Water is of course of utmost importance.

After lunch, we visited the Dhankar Monastery. The monastery is built on a clay mountain outcrop, finely balanced and overlooking the confluence of Spiti and Pin river. It almost looks as if its teetering on the edge of the whole mountain! In the monastery, we were served tea which came long with some stories of the gompa and its monks and then guided through the monastery itself.

Dhankar Monastery on the top left corner of the settlement

We restarted our drive after lunch towards Pin Valley which was to be our halt for the day. As always, the stunning scenery was our companion. Our driver advised us to stay the night at Mud village, and then visit Pin Valley the following day. Accordingly, we traveled to the small Mud village. We walked around to enjoy the beauty of nature – there were the mountains, the Pin river and a small half frozen waterfall. We put up at a homestay in Dhar Pilsur on the outskirts.

Day 5: Pin Valley, Key, to Kaza

PIN VALLEY

Early the next morning, after a breakfast of local breads and eggs, we visited the Kungri Gompa (Monastery) to see the festival held there. There was an hour of dancing by the monks in colorful costumes – the devil dance. Outside, the locals were selling various handicrafts and homemade items – like egg noodles, gloves, socks etc. The whole affair was fascinating! This was the Tsheshu Fair, held across all monasteries in Spiti, turn by turn.

After we had enjoyed the festival, we started our day’s journey which was to end in Kaza. Our first stop after Kungri was the Key (or Kye/Ki) monastery located in its namesake. Perched atop a hill, the Key Monastery was beautiful and the whole picture it presented with the brown mountains, blue river, green fields and white clouds floating above was absolutely stunning! We toured the place thoroughly and looked around the area, simply savouring the solitude and nature’s gifts.

Next stop was for lunch in Chicham Khas and then finally onto Kaza in the late afternoon, where we were to stay for the next day as well. Rest of the day – evening and night – was spent in exploring around in Kaza, some shopping and dinner with live music. Vacation goals!

Chicham Khas

Day 6: Langza - Komic - Hikkim

Today was to be a half day trip from Kaza to the nearby villages of Langza, Komic and Hikkim, each of which were known for some reason apart from their pretty locations among the Himalayan mountains. First up, Langza which is known for its giant Buddha statue situated on the mountain top overlooking the valley beyond. When we went there, the statue was undergoing restoration works but we could still see the magnificent statue of the serenely seated Buddha gazing down at us. Langza is also known for its fossils which one can find if they went on an expedition.

From there, it was a quick drive to Komic. Komic, at over 15000ft, is the highest village connected with motorable road. One of the highest monasteries in India is located here. We went inside and offered our prayers at the monastery and the head monk gave us his blessings with a shawl adorned with their prayers! At the “world’s highest restaurant”, we had maggi and tea to refresh ourselves before moving on to visit our next and final stop.

Next up was a fun place to visit – Hikkim. While it is lower in altitude than Komic, Hikkim plays host to the highest post office in the world! This post office is still functional though I think a lot of its mail is outgoing – from the highest post office to various parts of India. We too did the same; we sent postcards to our parents back home in Kolkata. It gave me a thrill to drop those postcards into the box.

After this, it was time to return to our base location, Kaza. We had a late lunch at Hotel Deyzor; an amazing local Spiti dish – the thentuk. In the evening we chances upon some people we had met in Dhankar and had a lovely time chatting to the group and then retired for the night.

Day 7: Kunzum Pass, Chadrataal

CHICHAM & KUNZUM LA

The next day, on e again, we were up early. One hot breakfast later, we continued on our Spiti voyage to the final destination – Chandrataal Lake. From Kaza to Chandrataal is the most stunning scenery I had ever seen or would see. This mountain desert with its bare faced slopes with spur-like outcrops and the Spiti river meandering in between, is unbelievably beautiful. I ran out of adjectives eventually.

One of the most exciting event of the day was crossing over the Chicham bridge. Chicham Bridge, connecting the villages of Kibber and Chicham is the highest bridge in Asia. It stands over a gorge over 1000ft deep! It literally gave me the shivers looking down into the gorge below. Earlier, villagers used to travel via buckets on rope suspension! Can you even imagine?

Our next stop was the Kunzum La (Kumzum Pass). Located at a height of about 15000ft, Kunzum La connects Spiti Valley to Lahaul Valley. Some truly magnificent sights awaited us here. Snow capped peaks all around and the wind whipping hard at us. We paid homage at the Kunzum Stupas and prayed for a safe journey ahead.

CHANDRATAL

As we entered Lahaul Valley and journeyed northwards, the weather started getting cooler and we could see snow gathered by the roadside. By early afternoon, we reached this day’s last stop. We were going to do camping! That is to say, we would stay the night in camps amidst the mountains, near the Chandratal. The tents weren’t as basic as the ones during my trek. There were proper beds with bedding, toilets and even a chair and table in the tents along with gas lamps! Then there was a communal dining tents with tables and benches for meals. We had our lunch upon arrival and then we were off. We were going to trek to the lake!

Tip: We did the booking for the campsite via phone after online research. Ours was Parasol Camps and it is closest to the trek trail.

Camp!

Follow the remainder of my journey in the upcoming post – Part 3 of the Lahaul-Spiti experience. Keep an eye on this space.

E-commerce and Travel

Travel / By / January 23, 2022

How E-commerce helped in my travel plans & arrangements

We 90s kids have straddled the technology timeline. On the one hand we have seen and used all things manual/physical, while on the other we have seen the tech boom – advent and advancement of mobiles, computers and last but not the least: E-commerce.

Why E-commerce?

Once upon a times, we stood in lines for everything – from groceries to tickets to clothes. With the arrival of technology, everything is at our fingertips. Convenience is our utmost requirement in our busy, work-filled lives and that is where E-commerce comes in.

Innumerable products and services brought to our doorstep by a few simple clicks on our tiny phone/computer screens. In the area of travel as well, E-commerce has helped immensely.

Read on to see how I use technology to make my travel plans and arrangements easier.
When do I not use E-commerce?! it is inbuilt in almost all aspects of my travels. Gone
are the days of toil, when we stood in line at the crack of dawn to book train tickets and then
too wasn’t guaranteed reservations on our chosen train. Rushing to shops to purchase all
travel accessories and necessities is also of days bygone.

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How has E-commerce helped me?

Here are all e-commerce platforms I use.

First step - booking train/flight/bus tickets:

Online! Various platforms area available and we can choose and compare prices/availability before buying tickets.

Sites I use: MakeMyTrip, Yatra, RedBus, IRCTC.

Pic credit: Pinterest

Second step - hotel reservations:

Online! Again, various sites allow us to search for desirable properties to stay at during our vacation. We can select based on required criteria like nearness to airport/city centre, good area, budget/cheap etc.


Sites I use: MakeMyTrip, Yatra, Booking.com

Next steps - Travel goods:

Online! Be it luggage or clothes gadgets or medicines, anything we need for traveling purposes, we can and do buy online.


Sites I use: Amazon (it is my to-go site!), Myntra, NetMeds, etc.

Special mention:

Even though these aren’t E-commerce sites, these are app/sites which have made life so much simpler.

Google – for all research during a trip planning.

Google Maps – I would literally be lost without it, this is my one true friend in navigation and looking up bus/train timings, restaurants etc.

Zomato: For selection of restaurants or dhabas I aim to have my meals in.

which one?

I trust E-commerce sites based on:

  • Their reputation – achieved through reviews.
  • Range of products / services.
  • Customer service
  • Transparency of return policy.

Thus are chosen the above-mentioned sites.

While some things are best done offline, there is no denying that E-commerce has made
life simpler and has let us conserve our valuable time and energy. E-commerce is here to stay!
Do let me know how E-commerce has helped you and which ones are invaluable to
you.

This post was written for Blogchatter’s Featured Campaign #ECommerceBuildsEconomy.

The Naperville Photo Diaries

Chicago, Travel, USA / By / December 31, 2021

On the trip that I visited the Shedd Aquarium on, I stayed with one of my oldest and dearest friends. She lived in a small town outside Chicago, called Naperville. I spent 5 days there living like a local almost. I visited the local grocery stores, Walmart, eating at local establishments and driving – or rather being driven seeing as my friend was the one driving – into Downtown and exploring the local sights.

Naperville, founded in 1831, has a population of around 150,000 and is located on the banks of the DuPage River. Presenting my photo diaries of Naperville.

House of the Aquatic Beings – Shedd Aquarium, Chicago

Chicago, Travel, USA / By / December 16, 2021

I have been fascinated with fish since childhood; I used to have pet goldfish and guppies. I tended to them – tank cleaning, feeding, water changing, the works. Their colorful selves and fluid movements attracted me. But all I ever knew and saw were these personal fish tanks at people’s homes or some semi large ones used as decorations. I never knew such official aquariums housing millions of sea life even existed. Until I saw a tiny portion of the Dubai Aquarium and was stunned.

The first and only one that I visited full fledged is the Shedd Aquarium in Chicago when I took a trip to Chicago to visit my friend and went for a Chicago sightseeing day.

On The Shores of Lake Michigan

The location of the aquarium itself is a stunning one – on the shores of the beautiful Lake Michigan. The day was a gloriously sunny day with gusty breeze from the lake. We did try to book tickets online but unfortunately that was only available for Chicago residents (at that time atleast or we were looking in the wrong place?) and we stood in line. The wait wasn’t too long and we bought were soon inside.

Tip: Tickets can now be booked online here.

The Amazing Diversity of Sea Life

The aquatic ecosystem is so diverse and astounding! The Shedd Aquarium opened my eyes to the truly enthralling world of underwater. There were seahorses and sea-dragons with transparent paper thin fins and bodies, corals housing plethora of organisms, jellyfishes, seawater fishes like angelfish, clownfish, freshwater fishes like paddlefish, sturgeons, starfish, octopus, and many many more.

Then there were the shellfish, turtles, sea otters, sea lions and the reptile section – which I did not visit because I am terrified of them, unlike my childhood! There were those utterly cute creatures – penguins! And, last but not the least – sharks! – feared but revered.

The Whales and The Dolphins

Two of the best parts of the visit though, were the Beluga Whales and the Dolphin show. The beluga whales are cared for by dedicated staff of the Shedd Aquarium. It was such fun watching them frolic around and play and interact with human beings.

The Dolphin show was about a 10-15 minutes’ show where trained dolphins danced to music, showed their tricks and entertained us in general in tandem with their trainers. It was such a remarkable event!

Beluga Whale

The 4D Show

There were a few 4D experiences to choose from – we chose the Coastal Predators show. It was a novel experience where, apart from the realistic feel using 3D glasses, the chair vibrates, there’s water squirting, wind blowing – all to create that full lifelike atmosphere.

Care and Conservation

Shedd Aquarium takes the conservation of nature and care of creatures very seriously. At the time of our visit, the aquarium had several larger-than-life sculptures made entirely of plastic waste from oceans! The aim was to raise awareness of the harmfulness of plastic and just how much we are polluting the ocean – home to these magnificent creatures.

They also:

  • Rescue and rehabilitate animals – turtles, belugas, penguins
  • Contribute towards research which benefit these creatures.
  • Have an animal response team who work with conservation partners.

Find more about their efforts here and here and here.

Map of Shedd Aquarium

I am doing my bit by raising awareness through this post via Blogchatter’s Cause A Chatter campaign.

The Dream Trip to New York Part 2

New York, Travel, USA / By / November 22, 2021

Major part of Day 1 in New York was spent in touring Statue of Liberty and  Ellis Island. Read about my experience here.

Brooklyn Bridge

I decided to go to the Brooklyn Bridge as the first destination of my explorations. It was almost a 20-minute walk during which I just took in the sights and sounds of New York and did some people watching. It was fun!

The iconic Brooklyn Bridge stood before me in all its glory and majesty. The bridge is a suspension bridge which connects the boroughs of Manhattan and Brooklyn. I took pictures of the bridge, regarded the Manhattan and Brooklyn skylines from a different angle than the morning’s and watched the high-speed traffic on the lower tier of the bridge.

Walking halfway across the bridge in the last rays on the sun, fatigue and jet lag set in and as dearly as I wanted to walk the whole bridge, I just couldn’t. I turned homewards.

Tip: If you are a biker (cyclist), you can take (guided) bike tours which are included in the NY pass.

Day 2

Highlights of New York

Next day was to be a big day – I was trying to capture all of my heart’s desire about New York in 1 day! There is so much to do and see and experience, I knew this would be impossible, so I simply chose what I called – the highlights of New York!

Madame Tussaud’s

First up, I had to collect my New York Pass and guide. I wanted to start with the Hop On Hop Off Bus tour to move from one attraction to another. HOHO bus tickets were free with the NY Pass so I headed to the nearest stop. As it turns out, Madame Tussaud’s was the closest HOHO bus stop, so I decided to tour the museum first.

The hour or so spent there was so much fun, going around the wax figures – from living people to dead legends, from royalty to scientists. To be honest, some were not such a good likeness but most of them were so astonishingly real and detailed that you’d think they were about to move. It’s marvelous and a must-visit for all.

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9/11 Memorial and Museum

Emerging onto Times Square, I gazed up at the skyscrapers and just couldn’t hold in my excitement – I was in Time Square in New York!!! I just turned round and took it all in. After soaking up the atmosphere, I climbed onto the HOHO bus and traveled to my next stop – the 9/11 Memorial and Museum.

On the way, the guide on the bus relayed interesting facts and history about New York City – old and new. Like, the new part of NY was planned and hence laid out like a grid – avenues and streets whereas old part of NY – south of SoHo (meaning South of Houston), is more haphazard and doesn’t follow any such pattern.

The 9/11 Memorial and Museum is located at the spot where the original World Trace Center used to be. It honours the people killed in the attacks of September 11, 2001. The memorial consists of two reflecting pools set in the footprints of the Twin Towers and a plaza of trees, including the Survivor Tree. The museum relays the events of that fateful day and the horrific tragedy through artefacts, videos, some surviving structures while also conveying personal stories of loss and memories. It was with a somber feeling that I left the museum.

Empire State Building

Lunch was delicious lasagna at this cute little restaurant. Post lunch, I walked to my next destination – the Empire State Building. This iconic building is mainly and office building, but its fame is due to its Art Deco architecture, its height – before the WTC, it was the tallest building in the world – and mainly because of its observation decks.

It has 2 observation decks – on the 86th floor and on the 102nd floor. With my pass I had access to the 86th floor deck and that’s where I headed. The ride itself is exciting one – via elevator – nearly half a km. above the NY streets. Once there, I was treated to amazing panoramic views of the entire city of New York, its boroughs, the Hudson and the skyscrapers that distinguish the Big Apple.

Tip: The 102nd floor is not included in the NY pass and access must be purchased separately. But I can recommend the 86th floor is not to be belittled.

Central Park

After I had my fill of the NYC skyline, it was time to return to the ground – literally. I was now going to visit another iconic NY attraction – the Central Park. Traveled by bus – guided by Google Maps – I reached the park in the early hours of the evening. Lush foliage, abundant greenery and neat pathways greeted me.

With no particular aim in mind, I roamed around the park and enjoyed the fresh air and more importantly the wonderfully alive and vibrant atmosphere of the park. Groups played music, people danced, others simply strolled while yet others lay on the grass to absorb the last rays of the sun. Unbeknownst to me, I had made my way to the heart of Central Park, the famous Bethesda Fountain. With its Angel of Waters statue, it is a lovely sight indeed.

Tip: If you are a biker (cyclist), you can take (guided) bike tours which are included in the NY pass.

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Bethesda Fountain
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Times Square and Rockefeller Centre

From the park, I headed back towards my first stop of the day – Times Square. I wanted to experience it during the night-time and oh, was I right?! During the late evening, it was a different ambience there altogether – it was fun and party mood. Times Square is glorious in the night – all lit up with smorgasbord of colours, sights, sounds and smell!! I just fell in love with it. It would have been nice to share it with someone though. I walked around for a while, snapping pictures and just being.

Finally it was time for my final attraction of the day – the Rockefeller Center! What I was headed for was the Top of the Rock observation deck. I rode the glass sky shuttle to the Top – the 70th floor, which is actually 3 stories of open-air observation deck! I was presented with a stunning 360-degree panoramic view of New York at night. I was mesmerized, I went round just gazing out from the outdoor deck at dazzling view in front of me. It was late at night and I had actually had to wait outside for my slot, but this was so worth wait! A worthy end to my day in New York.

Tip: The New York Pass has to be presented at the Box office to convert into tickets as per available slots. I had a late slot available at 10:10PM. The pass also helps skip the general line at concourse level.

Times Square in the Evening
Views from Top of the Rock

Eating and Shopping in New York

That night, I had a hot dog – with mustard and ketchup – from a stand in true NY (read: Hollywood) style. There is no dearth of eateries in New York, any and all kinds of cuisine is available. I had Italian, Mexican (yummy tacos), American obviously (burgers, pancakes) etc. So don’t be shy and eat your heart out.

There are gift shops available at all attractions to get your mementos. While I did buy magnets, keychains, pens etc. I also bought some fantastic costume jewellery at this shop I spotted near my hotel. The shop said “everything must go!”. I went in and just went a little bit crazy at the offers and the variety of goodies. Suffice to say, I bought a lot. So be sure to keep a lookout for such deals.

On My Next Trip…

I know that I barely scratched the top of the jewel that is New York. While I was supremely happy with my time there, I know that I will surely return again. And on my agenda are the below, which you should definitely do if you, unlike me, have 2 more days.

  • Visit The Metropolitan Museum of Art (The Met) – this iconic museum which holds 5000 years of art history from all around the world.
  • Visit The Museum of Modern Art (MoMA) – it has world famous collection of modern and contemporary art including van Gogh’s The Starry Night.
  • Do the Rockefeller Centre Tour – apart from a Top visit, there is a tour of the rich art, design and architecture of the building.
  • Walk the Brooklyn Bridge end to end.
  • Browse Bloomingdales (not going to buy anything but still!)
  • Be an audience on one of the late night shows – they were giving tickets near the Rockefeller Centre but unfortunately I didn’t know the scene at night for a solo woman.
  • Walk The High Line – elevated park and walkway created on former New York Central Railroad on the west side of Manhattan.

Tip: There are also a ton of walking, bus, ferry tours available on the Pass which are highly interesting, be sure to check them out and choose as per your taste. I just know, there’s something for everyone in this versatile and ever-embracing city!

The Dream Trip to New York Part 1

New York, Travel, USA / By / November 22, 2021

Watching all these TV shows (Friends) and Hollywood movies (You’ve Got Mail, Serendipity) and reading about it in books (Shopaholic series) has always made me yearn for a trip to New York. There was so much I wanted to see and do – to me it represented the ideal place which represented all things American. In 2018, I was presented with an opportunity to make this dream trip come true. I was to go on a work trip to Austin but I arranged to arrive 2 days earlier in New York out of my pocket so I could finally visit this city.

Only A Day and A Half

Considering flight timings, hotel check-in etc., my time in New York was actually a day and half. As such, I had very little time to visit all the places I wished to. I planned carefully, checking distances between places, prioritizing what I wanted to do most and researching passes vs. direct tickets.

Finally, I chose to buy a 1-day New York Pass, and separate tickets to the Statue of Liberty. The reason was, that New York Pass did not cover the entrance into the Statue, only entry to the island and also because I wouldn’t really have 2 full days to consider getting a 2-day pass. This combination was much cheaper.

Tip: Pedestal access tickets including the ferry and access to Ellis Island Museum was $18.50 and the New York Pass was $124. Check current price for the former here or here and the latter here.

New York Pass w/ Guide

Day 1

Statue of Liberty-Ellis Island-Brooklyn Bridge

Mini Disaster Averted

My destination for the day – Statue of Liberty! I used the metro, to travel to New Jersey. Google Maps helped me find the approximate location of the ferry, but I got lost locating the boarding point. I stood for a while at a spot I assumed to the location but turned out to be incorrect. Even though I had arrived with almost 30 minutes in hand, time was slipping away. Having finally found the correct place, I waited for the next ferry.

Here I realized that this ferry was a 2-minute one to take me across the water channel to the main ferry building from where I had to board the final ferry to Ellis Island/Liberty Island! Anyway, the smaller ferry soon arrived, and I reached the Ferry Building with minutes to spare. I frantically ran to convert my soft copy to a physical ticket and then to the ferry boarding gate, boarding just in the nick of time!!

Ferry Views...

Ellis Island

The first stop of the New Jersey ferry was the Ellis Island. The Ellis Island is where millions of immigrants first entered the United States of America, and this was where they were processed. The Ellis Island National Museum of Immigration depicts this history of America and is also a tribute to the nation’s past.

The museum has 3 floors of exhibits which document immigrants’ experiences as well as the general history of immigration. There are various rooms like Registry Room which is a huge hall where the initial processing was done, Dormitory Room where the immigrants stayed, Treasures From Home where possessions of immigrants from their homeland are displayed and so on. I took an audio guide which helped me through my whole tour through the museum and America’s very interesting and rich history.

Statue of Liberty

As I reboarded the ferry which now turned towards Liberty Island, I could barely hold in my excitement. In a few minutes, the famous lady in green holding aloft a burning torch came into view. The Statue of Liberty was gorgeous up-close! As I stared up at the statue, I admired it for its might, for its significance and for its beauty.

I had booked my Statue of Liberty Pedestal Access ticket online via Statue Cruises a week in advance. This was a mistake because I waited until the last moment and hence couldn’t get a ticket either for the Battery Park ferry (in Manhattan) or a ticket for the Crown access. I could only get the pedestal access via New Jersey ferry.

Tip: Never leave it until the last moment to book tickets for pedestal and crown access. Book atleast a month in advance to get your desired tickets.

After landing on the island, I made my way to the statue, where I had to pass several security screenings before being granted entry. Once inside, I climbed hundreds of stairs (did not count), to reach the pedestal level of the statue. At the pedestal – feet of the statue – I visited the Museum where the history of the statue was laid out – from its emergence to its being gifted and to its final construction and place at the entrance to New York.

Tip: There is an elevator available, but it is only for senior citizens and physically handicapped. So be prepared for a long walk up numerous stairs.

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Pedestal level views
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At the pedestal level
At the pedestal level
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Edouard de Laboulaye, a Frenchman, conceived the idea of a monument of liberty to be gifted to the US. Auguste Bartholdi, a young sculptor took on this opportunity to create a modern-day Colossus. The statue was assembled in Paris, foundation work was done on Bedloe’s Island (later renamed to Liberty Island), and the statue was finally dismantled and shipped to New York. 21 years after conception, Liberty Enlightening The World stood in New York Harbour. It was declared a national monument in 1924.

After touring the statue museum and learning about its origins, I made my way back down and just strolled about and toured the Liberty Island. I had my lunch – burger, fries and cola! – and also visited the gift shop to buy some mementos. It was a sunny day and the views of the Hudson and the New York skyline just made my day. It was a charming sight.

I finally left via return ferry to Battery Park in Manhattan. Since it was still daylight, I decided to do a bit of exploring on foot.

Tip: To know about current visiting rules in the light of Covid-19, please visit their website here.

My evening adventures and highlights of New York visit the next day – all coming up in Part 2.

The Enticing Himalayas – Winter Kuari Pass Trek Part 3

Himalayas, India, Travel, Uttarakhand / By / November 9, 2021

The stories of Day 1 and 2 of the trek can be found in Part 1 and Part 2.

So Cold!!

On reaching Tali campsite at the end of our trek on Day 2, we headed straight to the kitchen tent to warm up and there we stayed till evening. Several cups of hot tea and bowls of maggi were consumed to ward off the biting cold and to re-energize ourselves after the 13km long trek. From evening till dinnertime, we spent the time in our tents having naps and just resting.

That night’s dinner, delicious though it was, provided only a small respite from the bitter weather. It kept snowing at a steady rate and the ground was carpeted by fresh snow a few millimeters deep. Inside our tents, we had to keep hitting the roof to ensure that snow didn’t collect for very long and bury the tent. When we tried to sleep though, it proved to be impossible – we were literally shaking, our teeth chattering. Cold rose from the ground in waves and any number of layers or even the body warmers couldn’t help. Temperatures had dropped to sub-zero zones, to about -25 deg.C!!

The Descent to Base

The next day, however, dawned bright and sunny to our delight. The unbearable cold had gone and we were left with a manageable cold and a clear, sparkling sky. After breakfast, we packed up for the final time, said goodbye to our camp crew before we set off.

Day 3

We started from Tali at 9AM on day 3, the final day of our trek. Almost as soon as we started our walk, we encountered amazing views behind us. The sun shining down on the fresh snow and the clearly visible majestic peaks. We simply stared with wonder at nature’s beauty. Last night’s snow seemed to add an extra dimension of magnificence to the whole scenery.

Initial part of the day was a medium incline or ascent, and the final part was a mix of gradual and steep descent down to our base point. The sceneries that we came across as we walked on steadily were mind blowing. It was nature at its best, in all its glory and splendor and we were right in its lap!

We started with exclamations like “Omg! Wow!”, “That’s amazing, what a view”, “Never seen anything like this!”, until we soon ran out of words. There weren’t any adjectives to describe the brilliance of what we were witnessing. Every turn of the trail opened up another new mountain peak and scenery.

Ultimately, we started to leave behind this gorgeousness and climbed down to lower altitudes. We traveled via Gurson Bugyal top, onto Gurson Bugyal and finally down to Auli, our final stop.

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Gurson Bugyal Top
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Unforgettable Views

The universe compensated for the cloud cover of the day before and rewarded us with such amazing panoramic views that is hard to put down in words. Seeing is believing. That day we saw some mighty peaks of the Himalayas – Dronagiri, Mt. Kamet, Nanda Devi, Trishul , Chaukhamba, Neelkanth, Hathi Ghoda and some which we did not know the name of but were equally breathtaking.

We saw these mountains at various angles, with the sun and shadows creating views unlike any other, giving birth to unforgettable sceneries.

Day 3 Summary:

From/To: Tali to Auli via Gurson Bugyal

Distance: 9 kms.

Altitude: 11000ft to 11500ft to 9500ft

Walking Time: 5.5-6 hours

Peaks: Dronagiri, Mt. Kamet, Nanda Devi, Trishul , Chaukhamba, Neelkanth, Hathi Ghoda

Memories of a Lifetime

From Auli we were driven by car to Joshimath, where we stayed the night and from there on, traveled the next day to Rishikesh (10 hours by car and finally back to Mumbai. At Joshimath, the fatigue hit us; extreme exhaustion settled upon us and we barely felt able to make it to dinner. And the pain….! Oh, the pain in the legs, I was literally limping. But I wouldn’t exchange it for anything in the world.

This Winter Kuari Pass trek was my first ever trek. I never knew I had this stamina, bravery, strength and will in me to do this. There were bad moments – when I slipped and fell and hit my bum, when my foot slid dangerously close to the edge on the icy snow, when I felt I just couldn’t take the cold anymore and tanning up like crazy, skin bleeding due to dry chappiness and mini frostbite. But nothing, nothing will ever come close to what I saw – nature’s loveliness which I was fortunate enough to behold.

It is the experience of a lifetime with memories forged that will be there in my heart forever.

Things to know before you do a winter trek

  • Clothes: Thermals, fleece jacket, down jacket (which should also be wind and waterproof). Atleast these 3 layers plus woollen mufflers, gloves (one woollen, one waterproof), socks, hat.
  • Shoes: Trekking shoes with bottom treads.
  • Miscellaneous:
    • Body warmers (I recommend)
    • Sanitizing wipes, tissues
    • Headlamps with extra batteries
    • Bag with waterproof cover
    • Sunglasses are a must (can cause snow blindness otherwise)
    • Moisturizer to take care of dry chappiness
    • Thermos to carry warm water.
  • Remember! (for any trek):
    • Do not throw away your trash carelessly, clean up after yourself.
    • Collect the trash and dispose it off properly. Respect nature, it is giving you so much to cherish.
    • Avoid use of plastic as they are toxic.
    • Do not waste, be it food or water. Resources are scarce, use them responsibly.

That said, enjoy the gift of nature and absorb the pure atmosphere all around you.

This post was written as part of Blogchatter’s Cause A Chatter campaign – “Nature Talks”; where I led a rustic life in harmony with nature.

The Charm of Himalayan Mountains – Winter Kuari Pass Trek Part 2

Himalayas, India, Travel, Uttarakhand / By / October 26, 2021

The initial pre-trek and Day 1 story are here in Part 1. Carrying on from there…

T minus 7 Hours

The night at Gulling campsite was freezing cold, and when we lay down on the ground inside our tent – albeit over a mat – our backs froze. The sleeping bags itself came with a layer of warm material plus we had on our inner thermals, tee shirt and fleece jacket. We also had on our socks and gloves. Despite this, it felt cold. To give ourselves that final warmth, we had brought body warmer patches which we attached to our back and the backs of our legs. This helped a lot, and we could catch a few hours of sleep.

I have never done camping so this feeling of sleeping under the open sky with utter silence surrounding me and hug of nature from all around felt exciting and a bit unnerving and, despite the cold, quite fun!

The Final Ascent

Our day started at an ungodly hour of 4.30AM. Hot tea and biscuits was given to us in the tent which awakened us. We freshened up with wipes and a tinny amount of our warm drinking water and then put on our trekking gear – layers, boots, hats, gloves and headlamps. After packing up our sleeping bags and organizing the one we were going to carry, we had a quick breakfast of toast and porridge standing in the kitchen tent. A quick check of equipment later, we were ready to start.

Day 2

The 2nd day of our trek started officially at 6AM. We set off walking in dark with our headlamps on and our walking sticks for aid, over slippery, frozen ground. The guides showed us the route but told us that we should all go at our own pace, stop when needed and pick up pace if we felt like it.

Over the rocky, mountain terrain we walked on, through trees, up boulders, across frozen streams as day gradually dawned around us. We stopped when we were totally out of breath, had water and sweets for sustenance and carried on. It was enervating and such a rush!

As we climbed, we started to encounter snow on the ground, a little scattered here and there on the sides and then ultimately the whole ground was snow covered. Breathing became harder as we moved to the rare air of higher altitudes. We had to pace ourselves.

We traveled via Khullara and reached Khullara Top mid-morning at around 9AM. Here we had a small rest, refreshed ourselves and put on our shoe protectors because we were about to start serious tramping through snow after this. Till now, we were going up a gradual ascent but from hereon started a pretty steep ascent over snow to our final destination.

Walking through snow over steep slopes, S-curved ridges, brambles etc. was hard. The snow was deep so we always had to test the ground by poking our stick and checking that it was solid enough for us to walk on and only then should we step forward. Once we were through the trees and on higher elevation, the entire mountain landscape opened up behind us – the dazzling peaks and a slightly clouded sky.

Never, not one part, not at any point did it ever feel boring or monotonous. Each step was a challenge, each foot forward was a risk taken towards our ultimate goal. Ofcourse we stopped for photos, water, small rest to catch our breaths. And so it went on till we reached our peak – Kuari Pass at an altitude of 12500ft.

We summitted at 10:30AM in the morning. And may I say, I was the first one to reach the top – yay me! I soaked in the feeling of having reached the top, that sense of achievement, that absolute joy and finally the utter wonderment of having that sheer natural beauty in front of me.

Kuari Pass!!

A Panorama Unlike Any Other

It was unbelievably windy and cold at the top. But that all faded when we beheld the view in front of us. The valley stretched out between the ranges and the mountain peaks right up in our faces, all separated by the pass we stood on – Kuari Pass.

Unfortunately, the weather had turned quite cloudy by this time and we were able to witness only a few peaks. Mainly, the Dronagiri behind us, to our left the Pangarchulla peak and mostly hidden behind the clouds – the Neel Kanth. Despite this, the panoramic view was something to be remembered forever, it was a view unlike any ever seen.

At The Top

The Descent

Having spent a half an hour or thereabouts on the pass, it was time to start our descent to the other side to our day’s camp. After walking a couple of minutes, we found some boulders shielded from the extreme wind and we sat to have our packed lunch.

The descent was via a ridge to our Tali camp. This was the most adventurous part of our trek where it always felt one slip and down we would go. As we started our walk over the ridge – sharp drops on each side of us – it started to rain. We had to walk carefully on the path because it soon became slippery. The danger added a level of exhilaration and excitement to this part of the trek. Hearts beating fast, heads bent against the rain, we forged on ahead.

After some-time the rain converted to snow and with the wind blowing sideways it struck our faces, settled on our clothes and bags. It was fascinating to see the various shapes and sizes of the snowflakes as they floated by. But we had to concentrate on the path, on not slipping and sticking to the trail.

Finally, at around 2PM in the afternoon, we made it to Tali Forest, where our camp for was setup among the trees for the day.

Snowing on descent

Day 2 Summary:

From/To: Gulling to Tali via Kuari Paas

Distance: 13 kms.

Altitude: 9000ft. to 12500ft and back to 11000ft

Walking Time: 8 hours

Peaks: Dronagiri, Pangarchulla

Final part of the trek coming up in Part 3.

This post was written as part of Blogchatter’s Cause A Chatter campaign – “Nature Talks”; how I was at the heart of nature and one with it.

Paradise On Earth – Winter Kuari Pass Trek

Himalayas, India, Travel, Uttarakhand / By / October 26, 2021

Heaven on earth. This is the only term to describe the Himalayas and its impeccable beauty. To be up close to these gorgeous mountains, in the very lap of pure, unadulterated nature is a blessing. To be able to witness those views from the top is an award which you get for your hard work to reach there. Such were my feelings on my first ever mountain trek – the Kuari Pass Trek.

Auspicious Beginnings

The pre-trek part of the trip saw us – my husband and myself – traveling from Mumbai to the holy city of Rishikesh, Uttarakhand. Our hotel was right beside the river – the Holy Ganges – and just 2 doors away from the Laxmanjhula. Breakfast was hot kachoris and sabji, with tea on the balcony with a view of the Ganga and the Laxmanjhula bridge. Could there have been a better start to a trip?

After breakfast, we went for a walk by the river, over the bridge and onto the other side towards the Ramjhula. A pleasant walk with some window shopping or actually, 1 piece of shopping – I bought a woollen hat. That hat turned out to be my savior on the trek.

The walk left us famished and we had lunch at this cute café. Evening saw us meeting up with our con-conspirators i.e. our co-trekkers. We reacquainted ourselves – food, adda and laughter – and discussed the final minutiae of our trek.

Raring To Go

Early next morning – 5:45AM!! – we 4 trekkers started from Rishikesh by car for Joshimath which would be our main starting point of trek as well as the place for collection of supplies. With stops for tea and lunch, we reached Joshimath at about 6PM to icy cold weather. Temperatures were down to 9°C!

Joshimath is a bustling town in Uttarakhand which serves as the starting point for many a trek or trip to the upper Himalayas, including pilgrimages. In itself, it is a pretty town with its mountainous backdrop and religious afflictions as several temples of fame are located here.

We took a walk about town, imbibing the cold and compensating by having hot tea and biscuits! We met our guide for the trek who gave us instructions, timings and some tips. After organizing our trekking bags for the next day, we turned in early that night.

Incredible India!

Trek starts - The Initial Ascent

Next morning, though the 3rd day of our trip, was our 1st day of trek. Excited, we were ready and raring to go at 9.30AM. We were to travel a short distance by car to Dhak, point zero of our trek. Before that, we made a stop to collect all supplies which were to last all of us for the next 3 days. Ration, fuel, water, utensils, stoves, sleeping bags, tents.

Our trek was organized by Himalaya Trekkers, a small but experienced group who took care of all our trekking needs from point to point (Joshimath to Joshimath).

Day 1

At 10:30AM, we officially started our trek from Dhak (~ 6100ft).

We dismounted the car and strapped on our bags while our equipment – that we had picked up earlier – was loaded on to 2 mules who would carry it to the day’s campsite. The four of us plus our two guides – second one joined us at Dhak – took off walking on a small trail through the village of Dhak.

As we climbed, the mountain vista slowly opened up below us and enjoyed the lovely sights. After about an hour, we stopped for a rest and to refill our water bottles in tiny village of Tugasi (~7000ft). This would be our last encounter with villages or residents – after this it would be the mountains and us, nature embracing us.

Lunch was a packed one – roti, sabji, a fruit, a chocolate bar and juice – sitting on a rocky outcrop on a trail to higher altitude. A drink of water and we set off again. We were able to gradually see and recognize peaks in the distance. The feeling that we were closer to them was something never felt before. The final leg of that day’s trekking ended at our campsite – Gulling, at an altitude of 9000ft. We had walked for 3 hours that day and covered a distance of about 7kms.

We were greeted by an astoundingly beautiful campsite on the edge of the mountain with a view to die for. Dronagiri, Nanda Devi, and Hathi Ghoda peaks were right in front of us – an unimpeded view against a sparklingly clear sky!

The trekkers

Camping

Our campsite was already set-up by our camping crew helpers; 2 tents for the 4 of us, one loo tent, one kitchen tent. The kitchen tent was our saviour for these 3 days, only place warm enough to thaw us down a little in the freezing cold weather. It also served us king’s feasts for every meal. That evening it was piping hot coffee and pakodas!

We then had a small trekking lesson just before that – our guide showed us how to put on shoe protectors and spikes for snow trekking. Then, we were given instructions on camping rules –

  • Do not waste water (no brushing, just a quick mouth wash)
  • How to use the loo tent (hole’s been dug, do your thing and the use the shovel to cover it with dirt)
  • How to use your sleeping bags (pack them up the next day)
  • Collect your trash so they can be disposed off properly.
Me!! Enjoying sunshine @ Camp Gulling

I am doing my bit towards conservation of nature by raising awareness through this post via Blogchatter’s Cause A Chatter campaign.

Before sunset, we did a bit of exploring around the mountainside, taking in the clean, fresh air and the wonderful ambience that surrounded us and then watched the sun go down in between those gorgeous peaks.

Dinner was hot food – rotis, daal, sabji, sweets – in the warm tent. We chitchatted and walked about the small campsite in the moonlight but in the end the cold got us – it was impossible to just stand in that cold. We retired early as we had a very very early start the next day. Our final ascent to the peak.

Coming up in Part 2 , our final ascent and in Part 3, our last day of returning to base.

Day 1 Summary:

From/To: Dhak to Gulling

Distance: 6-7 kms.

Altitude: 6100ft. to 9000ft.

Walking Time: 3 hours

Peaks: Dronagiri, Nanda Devi, Hathi Ghoda

Us! @ Camp Gulling

One Day in Cork, Ireland

Cork, Travel / By / September 13, 2021

Cork was a flying visit 2 years ago when I accompanied my husband on his then-annual work trip to London. From there, he had a 1-day site visit to Cork and I happily tagged along because of course I wanted to see a bit of Ireland. While I did not get to see the famous cliffs which Northern Ireland is famous for, I got to see archetypal Irish township filled with history and culture.

Literally Jumping Into A Plane

Despite us reaching Stansted airport in advance, security check took aeons and by the time we were done they were calling for final boarding. We literally ran to the boarding gate and saw that there was no one to guide us. At a loss on where to go, we pushed open the door next to the boarding gate number and found ourselves on the tarmac!! We ran over the tarmac towards the correct airlines plane a few meters ahead of us and saw that again there wasn’t a single soul! On spotting a lone air hostess just inside the plane door, we shouted up from the tarmac, “Is this going to Cork?” and she nodded. We climbed up the stairs into the plane and she shut the door behind us. It felt so surreal! It was like getting on a bus, I have never had such an experience.

Tip: Arrive with lots of time in hand if you’re travelling via Stansted.  

Cork at Night

We arrived in Cork late evening and after checking in to the hotel, we ventured out to the city centre. Wrapped up in our coats in the pleasantly chilly weather, we enjoyed a stroll along the river – River Lee. With the lit-up streets lining the dark river, it was a pretty sight indeed.

Cork city centre is an island positioned between two channels of the River Lee which meet downstream at the eastern end of the city centre, where the quays and docks along the river lead outwards towards Lough Mahon and Cork Harbour, one of the largest natural harbours in the world. (Source: Wikipedia)

At night, all the shops were closed but the eateries were open, so we entered one for our dinner. Alas! it turns out that in majority of the restaurants, the kitchen closes by 6.30PM and only the bar remains open till about 2AM! Famished, we walked around for a while before we chanced upon a small pizza place to have one of the last remaining ones available – on the brink of time as the place was about to close.

Tip: Remember to get your dinner done in the early evening; we learnt this to our cost.

The Famous English Market

Next day, I started nice and early to start my 1-day tour of Cork City. I had planned my day quite well but as they say, the best laid plans…

I took a bus into town to my first stop of the day – the famous English Market. The English Market covers a huge area and is filled with all kinds of produce you can imagine, especially Irish specialties like Tripe and Drisheen, Spiced Beef, Kidneys and Skirts. There is also a huge fish and seafood section which boggled my mind; half of them I didn’t even know the name of. What attracted me most though, was the local cheeses available – innumerable delicious looking cheeses on display made me salivate.

The English Market has been trading since 1788 and has survived the Famine, wars, fire, revolutions and economic decline. The origins of the building date back to 1610 but the current building is from 1786. One of the reasons why the market came into focus in recent times was the visit of HM Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip in 2011, where Pat O’ Connell, a fishmonger, cracked a joke about an ugly monkfish which he had nicknamed as “the mother-in-law fish”, causing the Queen to erupt in laughter. The incident and that photo became famous very quickly and to this day that photo is up on the wall at the seafood section.

Walking Tour

One of the best ways to know Cork City is to take a walking tour. I took a public walking tour organized by Cork City Walk Tours (http://corkcitywalks.eu/). Bart was a lovely and knowledgeable guide who took us through the 2-hour walking tour.

Starting at the Fr. Matthew statue, Bart explained how the downtown district road was constructed to imitate the hull of a ship – an ode to its seafaring history. On the leisurely walk, I got to experience the compact 800 year old city, stroll the lanes of the 18th century Huguenot Quarter and gaze with wonder at Burges’s magnificent French Neo-Gothic cathedral. We also popped in to the Crawford Art Gallery, where we enjoyed the current exhibition and some permanent pieces.

City Centre Cork
City Centre Cork
City Centre Cork
Crawford Art Gallery, Cork
St. Peter's & Paul's Church
Inside St. Peter's & Paul's Church
Inside St. Peter's & Paul's Church
Cork street
Quirky wall graphic
Quirky wall graphic
Places to eat
Places to eat
A Starbucks housed in heritage building
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It was an informative and thoroughly enjoyable tour, at the end of which Bart suggested a few choices of where to have lunch. I took his advised and had lunch at this quirky pharmacy turned restaurant – Arthur Mayne’s Pharmacy. Keeping the old décor of a pharmacy, it had a rustic feel and delicious food.

Elizabeth Fort

Post lunch, I set out exploring on my own, again walking. My first stop was Elizabeth Fort located on Barrack Street.

It’s a 17th century star-shaped fort which was built in the aftermath of the Battle of Kinsale held in 1601. It is situated on elevated ground and its main purpose was to protect the walled Cork City below. During its lifetime, it has been used as a military barrack, a convict depot for transportation of women prisoners, food depot during the Great Famine, an RIC station and until 2013 as a Garda station.

Throughout the fort there are evidences and displays which pay tribute to all the various functions which it has served as. Its location atop the hill leads to some supremely pretty panoramic view of Cork city.

Tip: Admission is free but guided tours are payable at €3 pax., starting at 1pm each day.

St. Fin Barre’s Cathedral

After my lovely time at Elizabeth Fort, I walked to my next destination – St. Fin Barre’s Cathedral. The cathedral was designed by William Burges and consecrated in 1870. It lies on a site where Christian worship has been offered since the 7th century.

Unfortunately, this is where my plan started to unravel. Upon reaching the cathedral, I saw that it was closed so I thought I would wait for a while for it to open back up. Meanwhile I spotted the Serenity Circle Labyrinth which is to be walked upon in prayer and meditation. I did the full circle and found it calming and rejuvenating.

Since my final destination was approaching its closing hours, I could not wait anymore to enter the cathedral, so I admired it from outside, took photos and left for Shandon Quarters. When I rounded the street, I realized to my dismay that I had actually been at the back of the cathedral and it, in fact, had been open all this time!! I chose not to enter and carried on to my next stop of the day.

Fitzgerald Park and Shaky Bridge

To reach Shandon Tower, I took the route via Fitzgerald’s Park. It is Cork’s premiere public park and contains a wide range of flora – mature trees, rose garden, floral bedding and a pond dating back to the Industrial Exhibition.

I simply passed through in a casual stroll and admired the fall colours of the trees lining the paths and the gardens. From the park, I walked on to the Shaky Bridge to reach the north side of the city.

Inaugurated in 1927, it is the only suspension bridge in Cork City. The term “Shaky Bridge” is derived from the movement of the platform when running or jumping on the bridge. Ofcourse I had to walk over it fast to check the authenticity! It did shake, even if lightly.

Missing Shandon Bells, but Butter Museum!

The walk to the Shandon Bells was long and cold and I was exhausted by the time I reached. But to my utter dismay, I saw that the final entry to the church and bells had closed just 2-3 minutes ago!! I felt like crying because this was something I had dearly wanted to see. If only I had walked faster, if only I hadn’t loitered so much in the park, etc. etc. If onlys wouldn’t bring back time so I checked my tourist map to see what else I could do. I landed upon a very interesting place – A Butter Museum!

Situated in the Shandon Quarter itself, the Butter Museum offers a glimpse into the past when the area was the world’s largest butter market. Butter is the signature food of Ireland and the museum offers an insight into Ireland’s most successful food export.

On entering, there is an informative video about how butter was buried in a bog to the 19th century Cork Butter Exchange to the global success of the modern Irish dairy industry. The Museum is small but that means I got to explore it all – the various tools and machineries used for butter churning used throughout the ages, the techniques used, the storage mediums and a lot more about the history of butter.

Tip: Entry is €4 but arrive well in time to be able to view one of their butter churning demonstrations; I missed it due to the late hour of the day. For more information, visit their website.

A Final Cheers!

Despite there being few upsets in my plan, I was happy with my day spent in Cork and I headed back to the hotel in a good state of mind. We had to leave that evening to get back to London but before that, we had one last mug of chilled beer which the Irish love – Guinness.

What to do if you have more time in hand

If you had more than one day in hand in Cork, below is a list of must-visit attractions in Cork.

  • Cork City Gaol – It is said original prisoner writing can be seen on the cell walls!
  • Shandon Bells – It houses the Four Faced Liar – the 4 faces show different times! – and a gold fish at the top. You can ring the bells – in a tune of your choice – and climb the tower.
  • University College Cork – Includes Ogam Stones collection – largest in Ireland, the Honan Chapel with beautiful mosaic floor and stained-glass windows.
  • Blarney Castle and Grounds – Situated 8kms. From Cork, this would have to be day trip. Its stone is said to have the power of awarding eloquence to those who kiss it!

Things to know about Cork before you visit

  1. Currency used is Euros (€) so be prepared especially if you’re traveling from London it may be a tiny shock.
  2. Kitchens close by 6.30PM so be sure to have your dinner by then (or atleast order it). Bar will be open till well afterwards.
  3. Buses generally do not ply in late evening – atleast I did not see any.
  4. Be on time as per brochures/websites to all your attractions.
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