Gangtok is located in the north eastern part of India, in the state of Sikkim. It is a pretty mountain town which is a popular tourist destination. While there are a lot of sights and attractions in and around Gangtok itself, a trip to Nathula Pass and Tsongmo Lake is a do-not-miss, must-do day trip.
The Town of Gangtok
The border at Nathu La
Nathu La is literally called “The Pass of the Listening Ears”; “Nathu” means listening ears and “La” means pass. Situated on the Indo-Tibetan border, it is one of the highest passes in the Himalayas at 14,450 ft. It is one of the three open trade routes between India and China (China occupied Tibet region) and also serves as an official Border Personnel Meeting Point.
While its history is interesting and it has a deep political and economic significance, the main reason why this is a must visit attraction in Sikkim is because of its eye-catching beauty. Covered in dazzling white snow (in winter), ensconced between the mighty Himalayan mountains, the Nathu La is enthralling.
When I visited in 2011 with my family, the snow held me utterly spellbound. My sister and myself had fun romping in the snow, making snowballs to simply enjoy the feel of it on our palms. In the month of October the cold was pretty sharp, but it was an invigorating feeling.
Tip: The weather is cool all year round but in winters the roads are generally blocked due to heavy snowfall which will make the pass inaccessible. So the best time to visit is during the post summer months in my opinion of September to November when you can still enjoy the snow. Be sure to bundle up in your woolens and keep your ears and hands covered.
Tip: It is inadvisable for elderly people to visit since the altitude may cause breathing trouble.
Entrance
Nathu La Pass
China over yonder
My parents
Me!
That Patriotic Feel
The fact that it is an international border was of course not lost on us – the Indian and Chinese flags on either side of the fence, the military huts, and the brave Indian Soldiers safeguarding our country from external threats despite the cold and isolation.
We talked to a few soldiers, took photos with them and thanked them for their service to our motherland. Please do show respect for the border and its guardians when you visit.
Indian Flag
Tribute to martrys
Chinese flag
How to arrange a trip
Due to the sensitive nature of this pass, one is required to obtain a permit to visit the border, via a travel agency. The hotel in Gangtok arranged it for us. The permit is only given to Indian nationals and each day only a certain number of people are allowed to visit. Once we received the permit, we traveled on a shared jeep from Gangtok to Nathu La and back. The road is bumpy at places and it’s a long drive but it is worth the wondrous beauty of Nathu La.
On the way back from Nathu La to Gangtok, is another must-visit attraction – the Tsongmo Lake. Also known colloquially as Chhangu Lake, it is situated at the height of 12,500 ft. This is an alluringly beautiful and mammoth lake nestled between the formidable mountains. The calm lake and its foggy cover gave it an ethereal look and feel and I simply stood there and took its essence in.
The weather was a chilly cold with a sharp bite in the air as it rippled the surface of the water. In winter though, the lake is frozen. The lake changes colours with seasons and is greatly respected by the local people.
One of the things to do here is to take a Yak ride on the edges of the lake. I however did not venture to take one since it was just too cold! My suggestion would be to not miss out on this opportunity to take a yak ride – something not easily found elsewhere.
Fortune favors the brave
The rough journey, the super cold, the exhaustion from the long day is all worth it when one encounters these 2 absolute jewels outside of Gangtok, Sikkim. If in Sikkim, do not miss this trip!
Alibag, or Alibaug, is a small coastal town in the Konkan region of Maharashtra known for its pretty beaches and for its myriad range of water sports. While it is mostly popular as a weekend getaway from Mumbai, my husband and myself had taken a short half day trip last December.
Spontaneity is Best
While planning for a trip is a fun and a big part of the excitement of travel, sometimes decisions taken impulsively work out for the best. This is what happened to us one fine Saturday morning. Covid restrictions had lightened, and the situation was looking better so we thought of taking a short trip.
We discussed where to go, its pros and cons, if we should go at all yada yada but for two weeks nothing materialized. And then, while lazing post our Saturday breakfast one random weekend, we decided to drive to Alibag just to watch the sunset over the water. A quick lunch and we set off for Alibag!
Decision taken at the drop of a hat, spontaneous is sometimes the perfect answer!
The Drive
Alibag is located at a distance of 96 kms. from Mumbai. It can be reached via sea using ferry services from Gateway of India and it takes about an hour. But ours was a road trip!
We drove from Mumbai to Alibag in just under 2 and ½ hours. The road is mostly a good one except in a few places. It was a pleasant drive and added to our fun adventure trip. Music on, singing along and a pleasant December weather – a perfect drive.
Of Sunsets & Togetherness
We reached a few minutes before the sun was due to set – we had checked on Google. Alibag Beach was bathed in a pre-sunset gleam, the waters soaking up the last rays of the sun while gently lapping on the sandy shore. I love the ocean and just being on the beach excited me.
Our masks on, we roamed the beach and just enjoyed the laid back, lazy atmosphere. As the sun gradually descended towards the horizon, we stood and admired the glory of that fiery ball slowly sinking until all that was left was its mystic afterglow. It was magical. This was life – with your loved one, enjoying the charm of nature.
Tea at Dusk
After frolicking in the water for a while – after all, a trip to the beach isn’t complete without getting my feet wet, is it? – it was time for tea and biscuits. I had packed a thermos of piping hot tea from home (covid precautions) and brought along some Oreos. We sat on the beach and enjoyed the hot tea and biscuits in the dusky evening light. Ah, sheer bliss!
After one last stroll around the beach, it was time to head home. This short but fun trip was like a balm on our souls after having been cooped up for so long. It was a perfect quick road trip to satisfy our wanderlust.
India is a land of such diverse topography and natural beauty, of rich heritage and culture, of ancient history and mythology – that one need never step out of the country to explore and satisfy their travel lust. And that is what author Aditya Sathe describes with ample evidence in his book Incredible India Bucket List.
“At very beginning I want to thank my motherland, India for being so Incredible with such a variety of attractions that made the choice of these 26 places so difficult!” says Aditya at the beginning of his acknowledgment. So true is this!
Book Cover
What’s in the Book
The book enlists and elaborates on 26 places of attractions pan-India, covering places of historical importance, religious significance, architectural marvels, or natural wonders. Majority of the attractions are hidden gems which a lot of us are unaware of, of the fact that these deeply interesting and important places even exist in our own backyard sometimes! The list includes temples like Sun Temple and Airavatesvara Temple, monuments like Warangal Fort and India Gate, scenic destinations like Ziro Valley and Loktak Lake. The index of names itself whets up your appetite for forging ahead with your reading super quick. And, to immediately set out for that destination! Sigh, if only we could.
What I Love…
Each chapter is about one destination – beginning with each letter of the alphabet. What I love about this book is the way each chapter is broken up into 3 segments – a background story, the noteworthy features of the place and what we should check out or look for when we visit these attractions. Each segment contains a wealth of information about India’s past, her culture or about her inherent landscape and scenery. For example, how Vikramshila grew to be a prominent center of learning during the Pala Empire, at par with Nalanda is a very interesting read and a highly engaging chapter. The Edakkal caves have a connection dating back to The Ramayana.
There are detailed notes on each of the places which helps you form a picture of the places being described. The author gives you helpful tips about when to visit and why, for example: during the festivals of Ziro Valley; and which particular facet of the place you should definitely visit and take a note of. The pictures themselves are borrowed and Aditya gives the requisite credit wherever due.
Trivia
I have been to a few of the places detailed in Aditya’s book but I still did not a few of these very interesting trivia/facts. Did you know that Gir Forest has over 300 species of birds and 37 species of reptiles? Or, did you know that the Marina Beach emerged as a result of construction of wave breakers of the harbour? We all know about the change of guards ritual in London’s Buckingham Palace, but were you aware that you can witness a Change of Guards ceremony held every Saturday at Rashtrapati Bhavan in Delhi? All these and much, much more can be found in Aditya Sathe’s book. Download the ebook here.
Minor criticism
There’s not much to dislike about this book. Only couple of extra things which I would have liked – references to where this information is gathered from and indication of the current location of each these sights because it’s not always clear where we have to head to. But these are minor, there’s a whole host of things to absolutely love about this book.
Fascinating Encyclopedia of Indian Heritage
Once this pandemic is over or atleast in control and it’s possible to travel again, when you are planning your next trip, do refer to this book to help influence and guide your travel plans. I assure you, you will not be disappointed. Aditya Sathe is a travel fanatic like me and hopes to visit these places himself soon.
Image sourced from i.pinimg.com
This review was written as part of Blogchatter Book Review Program especially the Ebook Carnival series.
French food, I have always heard, is highly technical and involves precise measurements and use of ingredients. The various regions of France are known for and boast their own specialized dishes e.g. Lorraine, Champagne, Burgundy, Brittany etc. Somethings are common like wine, coffee, and breads! Oh! their breads! Melt in the mouth delicious, you will always find some at every table accompanying whatever dish you order.
From my observation, the French love their food. Mealtimes are almost religious; lunch is atleast an hour and dinner is a leisurely affair lasting for as long as you wish it to be. They dine early while there is still light out so there isn’t really a “tea-time” per se, and breakfast is not a fussy meal as well. When they dine out, they almost always eat al-fresco. I mean most of the restaurants I visited were crowded on the outdoors seating but empty inside. They enjoy the weather and their food.
The Parisian Love
On my solitary trip to Paris, I had a variety of French food, most of which I, unfortunately, do not remember – or was never able to pronounce – the names of. I do remember baguettes, confit duck, braised veal, cheese board with a sharing platter of blue cheese, tuna, pork etc. And…I also remember the French wines! Oh yum!
French Food
However, before you get your hopes up, I want to say that is merely an appreciation post for all French food. I have not yet tried making any French dishes at home except crepes and…French toast. Though as Rani said in “Queen”, this is probably “Indian French Toast”.
For crepes, I use this recipe, its not mine: Allrecipes
Ingredients:
Bread – 6 slices
Eggs – 2
Milk – ¼ cup
Salt – to taste
Pepper – 1 tsp.
Oil – for shallow frying
Method:
Slice the each of the bread pieces in half.
Beat the eggs in a flat-ish bowl.
Add salt, pepper and milk and mix well.
Now, dip the bread triangles into the egg mixture and hold for a few seconds. Turn over and repeat the process.
Heat a frying pan and add oil. Shallow fry the dipped bread pieces in the frying pan making sure to turn over so that they are evenly fried till golden brown on each side.
Serve hot with ketchup.
Tip: Don’t keep it dipped in the egg mixture for too long or it tends to tear away into blobs.
Tip: You can add chopped onions, tomatoes, coriander leaves, chillies to spice up the whole thing but I like it plain and simple so I have mentioned the basic recipe.
Indian French Toast. (I confess, this is a borrowed picture. I will come back with better personal pics.)
This is where the Indian version varies with the classic version – the accompaniment. We have it as a namkeen / savory dish whereas the classic French toast is had with syrup and is a sweet dish. Either way, it makes for an ideal breakfast or even evening snack.
Tip: I once tried a version where I tore the bread into bite sized pieces and made the French toast as tiny, crispy tea snacks. People loved it. You may try it out.
This post was written for Blogchatter A2Z challenge; Day 6 – Letter “F”.
I have lived in Kolkata for more than half my life but I barely ever took trips to nearby places of interest. There’s so much to see and do in and around Kolkata! In these uncertain times, all we can afford – safely – right now in terms of travel are day trips. Taking all necessary precautions for Covid (details below), we were able to have an enjoyable day at the scenic location of Raichak.
Raichak (or Roychak) is located on the banks of the river Ganga or, as it’s known in Bengal, river Hoogly and is an ideal place for a weekend vacation. Pleasant stay, fabulous views and self-pampering – from what I read and saw. However, due to the situation being what it is, we decided to do a short day trip instead to relax our exhausted minds and jaded lives.
Getting There
We drove to Raichak from Kolkata (northern part) on a bright and sunny Saturday morning. The road to take is via Behala-Alipore-Diamond Harbour Road-Noorpur Road. There are signs on the Diamond Harbour Road to guide you so it should not be too complicated. The journey should take around 2 – 2.5 hours depending on road traffic.
Tip: The main chunk of the journey is via the Diamond Harbour road which is a 2-lane road with a lot of traffic. The Noorpur road isn’t in a very good condition. Do account for these when you plan your travel timings.
Precaution: We had rented a self-drive car from Revv for our month-long stay in Kolkata for the ease of getting around and to avoid availing public transport. Upon receipt of the car, we quarantined it for 2 days before starting to use it.
The F fort
Formerly the Fort of Raichak, this has now been converted into a 5 star hotel/resort by the Radisson group. The fort had been built during the British times to keep watch on the water traffic of the Hoogly river. Later, the fort fell into ruins due to dis-use. Whatever remained of the fort was lovingly restored and refurbished and now conserved as an ode to bygone times. One can see the crenellated walls and the towers of the fort which were used a guiding structure and foundation for the current hotel.
We looked around at the colonial themed interiors and the very interesting décor of the F fort hotel. We then strolled around the well-maintained grounds enjoying the breeze and the greenery. There isn’t however a view of the river from the grounds; but we could tell that anyone having rooms at the higher floors of the hotel would be offered a superb view.
F fort entrance
The F fort façade
The F fort façade
Main hall/lounge
Main hall/lounge
Interior decorations
F fort Garden
Clock tower
Inside “Raichak on the Ganges”
As we were leaving, we chanced upon my very best part of the hotel visit – an almost life sized chess board! The chess pieces were black for Indians and white for the British. Each piece was sculpted as realistic figures having an English and an Indian counterpart. E.g. Indian rani vs. English queen, Indian kazi vs English Bishop. It was fun to discover this and examine the pieces. (We ignored the racist tones of this find.)
The giant chess set
Lunch
Lunch was an amusing affair. While there are quite a few restaurants at the resort with varied cuisines, we didn’t want to take a risk and so packed a lunch from our home. Problem was, where to sit and eat? There didn’t seem to be anyplace around – the resorts weren’t going to allow outside food. So, we parked at a side road and had our picnic right there in the car. Serving up four plates in that tiny space wasn’t easy but we managed it; it included a lot of yelling, instructions and balancing work! But, it was worth it. Homemade fried rice and chilli chicken had never tasted better!
Tip: For future reference, F fort and its adjacent resorts have multiple restaurants which you can try out when we get back to our “old” normal.
Walk by the River
The whole area has now actually been converted into a “hotel conglomerate” meaning: it houses several boutique hotels / resorts called Raichak on the Ganges. The resorts are Ganga Kutir, Anaya, Ffort Hotel and Ffort Suites. There are spas, golf course, lounges, pools, sports paraphernalia on hire etc.
After lunch, we drove the short distance to the Ganga Kutir resort. This one is situated right on the banks of the river and consists of separate cottages with a common lawn. We took a walk on the open lawn sloping down to the river. The actual water edge is cordoned off by wire barrier for safety purposes.
The view before us was magnificent. The wide bountiful river with its calm waters ruffling in the evening breeze was such a beautiful sight to behold! The setting sun created a perfect backdrop to this postcard-ready vista. Boats and launches travelled up and down the river and completed the typical river “scene”. The holy Ganga in all its beauty mesmerized me. This was the essence of our trip.
Tea to end the day
We turned homewards with the last rays of the sun. On the way home, we had tea and cake in the car to cap off our wonderful day by the river. The tea was also prepared at home and carried in a thermos flask. By evening, it wasn’t so much as steaming but more of a mildly warm cup of tea which still tasted like heaven because of the wonderful day we had just had!
Precautions: We had our masks on at most times (took it off when people wern’t within 6 feet of us) and had pocket sanitizers to clean our hands as soon as we touched anything (which was only a couple of times). As mentioned before, food, water, snacks and tea were all made and carried from home as well as plates, cups, and cutlery.
Lockdown and work from home has provided a small silver lining. After ages, I have been able to stay in my hometown Kolkata for more than a few days. For the last several years it has always been a flying visit but this time, due to the facility of working from home, its a longer visit. Taking advantage of that, I have been around the city and reacquainting myself with its beauty.
They are just phone snaps, taken from a moving car at most times but my city enchanted me all over again and I would like to share the beauty of my hometown with everyone. Presenting, the City of Joy, Kolkata!
Red RoadPrinsep Ghat and Vidyasagar Setu in the backdropFloodlights of Eden GardenEden Gardens outside facadeVictoria on the move…Rabindra SadanRandom city road click2nd Hoogly Bridge or Vidyasagar SetuGreenery @ Prinsep GhatVictoria Memorial (from the car)Durga idol at the festivalRandom road click 2 – and because we rarely see so much greenery in MumbaiKali idol at Kali Pujo (in bengal) festivalA local game of football in progress
Victoria Memorial
Diwali Lights!Biswa Bangla Gate
I will keep adding to this post as and when I explore more. Its been wonderful getting to know my city all over again!
Durga Puja may be a religious festival but it is also a time for festivities and celebrations, of family and togetherness, of fun and enjoyment. In my last post, I shared with you the religious part of the festival – the rituals and the lores, the prayers and worship. Today I bring you the fun (and my favorite) parts of this grand festival – the gifts, the pandal hopping and the food.
Gifts
Pre-puja we i.e., Bengalis, embark on a mission of vigorous shopping. We shop for clothes, matching accessories and shoes for ourselves and for all relatives – it’s such fun choosing for parents, uncles, aunts, cousins, siblings. Then we visit each other’s houses to gift these clothes and accept ours in return. For me, since childhood, this has been one of the attractions of puja – new clothes! Donning our new clothes and getting all decked up, we then go out pandal hopping.
Shopping
“Pandal” Hopping
A pandal is essentially a marquee or a tent which is erected during any event or in an open space. But for Durga Puja, a pandal is not a simple marquee – it is an elaborate affair with designs and decorations which are mind-blowing. They are works of art; in fact there are artists hired to envisage a theme and design the pandal. While some pandals are basic structures consisting of interwoven colorful fabric, most are thematic, extravagant edifices which are honestly jaw-dropping. Months are spent in planning and executing those designs which include attention to minute details and the overall picture.
The pandals are the best part of the “pujo” according to me. I brave the sun, the foot aches from the walking and the exhaustion at the end of 5 days just so that I can go around the city and get to see all the marvelous pandals. Below are some of the best ones that I have seen over the years. Pictures speak better than words in describing the awe-inducing craftsmanship and ideation.
Pandal decorations made entirely of balloons
Ballons have inscriptions on them
Idol decoration of balloons as well
Cardboard painting decorations
Cardboard painting decorations
Cardboard painting idol
Pandal decoration to represent activity on the water
Inside the pandal depicts underwater life
Supporting the “Go Green” movement
Supporting the “Go Green” movement
Supporting the “Go Green” movement
Figures made of hemp rope
Figures made of hemp rope
Representing a bee hive
Representing a bee hive
Theme: Colour
Theme: Colour
Theme: Colour
Representing a regional culture in India – food, people, items
Culture of Rajasthan
Culture of Rajasthan
Culture of Rajasthan
Culture of Rajasthan
Woven figures
Handstitched canvas
Woven figures
Woven figures
Woven figure detailing
Origami decorations
Origami decorations
Origami decorations
Origami decorations
Clay lamp chandelier
Various dance forms of India -1
Closeup of the a dance form (in a claypot)
“Chhau” (masked dance form)
“Chhau” (masked dance form)
Ode to music – 1
Ode to music – 2
Cloth flower decorations
“Samundra Manthan”
Theme: Cartoons
Theme: Cartoons
Ceiling decoration – 3D map of Kolkata city
Ceiling decoration – 3D map of Kolkata city
Golden Temple pandal
Idol carried on a chariot
Some of the most beautiful Durga idols
Lighting
Apart from the pandals, there is the lighting. The whole city gets decked up in colours and lights during this time. Kolkata is never more beautiful than during Durga Pujo. All pujo have fancy lights to brighten up the decorations but some have intricate lighting panels depicting some story or some figures etc. Some examples here:
The Food
We Bengalis love food. We say we “live to eat, not eat to live”. I totally go by that mantra. The pujas just give us another excuse to splurge out and eat all sorts of food. Be it biryani or chowmein or kosha mangsho (meat curry) or our favorite Kolkata street food fare; cuisine doesn’t matter, we love to gorge on anything delicious! Between all that hopping between pandals, we will do our “pet pujo” meaning, worshipping our appetite. My favorites are:
Phuchka: fried puffed flour/semolina balls stuffed with spicy mashed potato and tangy water.
Chicken Roll: rolled flat bread stuffed with spicy chicken mixture.
Papri Chaat: mini flat flour tacos topped with a mix of potato, onions, peanuts and a sweet-tangy sauce.
Fish Fry – deep fried crumbed fish fillets.
Chicken roll. (PC: 4.bp.blogpost)
Phuchka (PC: Ribbons to pastas)
Papri Chaat (PC: The Kolkata Buzz fb page)
Chowmein Kolkata style (PC: NDTV food)
Fish Fry (PC: Zappfresh)
Jhal Muri (puffed rice spiced up with onions, tomato, masala) PC: Jiyo Bangla
Kolkata yummy food!
A Time to Just Be
In the busyness of everyday life, we barely get time to meet friends or family or to simply relax. Durga Puja is, at its root, a time to take a break from the rigors of life. We catch up with friends, meet our extended family, forget our stresses and just enjoy.
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It’s October! This means Durga Puja in Kolkata to me. Durga Puja is my absolute favorite festival. This is the time of the year I most look forward to – when I take a trip back to my hometown to celebrate the festival with family and friends. This post is dedicated to “Pujo”, as we Bengalis fondly call it – the “pandals”, the food and the rituals.
Durgotsav
Durgotsav literally translates to “the festival of Durga”. Held during the Bengali month of ashwin (gregorian calendar months of September/October), this festival celebrates Goddess Durga’s victory over the demon, Asura. The lore says, Durga was created by the gods to defeat the king of demons, Mahisasura. She was shaped as an epitome of female strength and was empowered with weapons in her 10 hands for the battle. She fought and emerged triumphant over evil.
Every year Durga, along with her children Lakshmi, Saraswati, Kartik and Ganesh, travels to her maternal home for 10 days. These 10 days mark the occasion of Durga Puja though the main celebrations are held from the sixth day, “Shasthi. Five days of festivities follow, at the end of which – on the 10th day, Dasami / Dussera – she returns to her marital home in Kailash (abode of Lord Shiva). This is symbolized by submerging the deity in the waters of the holy river Ganga.
Durja Puja is a sarbajanin festival meaning it is held for the people / masses. Generally they are held in para (colony/block) / area/ locality wise or in apartment buildings /societies rather than in individual houses. In older traditional zaminder families/houses, they are held in respective houses usually in their ancestral homes.
The Rituals
Puja (prayer) is conducted on each of the 5 days of the festival twice a day – morning and evening. Additionally, there are various special rituals carried out each day. Alongside all rituals and prayers, one traditional custom is the beating of drums or “dhaak“. Every year when I hear the dhaak bhajna sounds, it fills me with excitement and joy!
Puja ceremony in a traditional ancestral household
Bringing home Durga maa – on Day 5 “Panchami”
Evening “arati” to the beats of dhaak
Shasthi (Day 6)
This is when the festival officially begins. The devi’s face is unmasked on this day as part of the opening ceremony called bodhon. Then we carry out the“astradaan” ceremony wherein the goddess is armed with her weapons formally. She holds sword, chakra (discuss), trishul (trident), axe, bajra (thunderbolt), khitaka (mace), shankh (conch), padma (lotus), bow and arrow, snake in her 10 hands. Each of the weapons were gifted to her by each of the gods.
Traditional idols of Durga and her family.
Saptami (Day 7)
On this day, we bring home the wife of Ganesh – by bathing and worshipping her on the ghats of Ganga – lovingly called “kolabou snan”.
Kola bou snan
Ashtami (Day 8)
This day – considered to be the most auspicious day – sees us holding prayers at midnight “shandhi puja” by lighting 108 diyas (lamps) and offering 108 freshly bloomed lotuses (Padma ful). This is the day we offer our prayers with flowers at the goddess’ feet – “anjali” – in the morning. “Kumari puja” is also observed on this day when we worship a young girl whom we consider to be the form of the goddess Durga.
Shandhi Pujo
Navami (Day 9)
This is the day we perform the well-known “dhunuchi naach” where evening prayers (“aarti”) are accompanied by dance with incense lamps. This dance is art form in itself. One must watch to know the mesmerizing beauty – and fun! – of it.
Dhunuchi naach
Dasami (Day 10)
The last of the week-long festival (day 10), Dasami, is when womenfolk worship all five gods and goddesses, feed them sweets and water as a final goodbye ceremony. Then there is the playful “sindur khela” where we put vermillion (meaning: sindur) on each other’s faces and foreheads as a form of good wishes. This is a fun ritual which I love to participate in!
The idols are then taken to nearby pools / the Ganga as a procession which goes round the streets with people dancing accompanied by dhaak and shankh sounds as part of the goodbye ceremony. Finally, we immerse the idols in water – “bisarjan” – and bid the goddess and her family adieu with cries of “Bolo dugga ma-i ki jayy!” (meaning: Hail the Mother Durga).
Aasche bocchor abar hobe! (meaning: until next year).
Dasami rituals – last prayers and sweet offerings and sindur-khela. From my apartment puja.
Procession
Revelries
Visarjan – idol immersion
Shubho Bijoya!
After immersion, we take our elders’ blessing by touching their feet and exchange sweets to end the festival. Over the next few days, we visit family and friends, bringing home made sweet meats and offerings our well wishes and greetings for the year ahead.
So this was about the holy rituals and ceremonies observed during the festival. In the next post, I will be writing about the most fun parts of the “pujo” – the pandals and the food! Happy Puja everyone!
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Valour. Honour. Integrity. That’s what the Marathas stand for. Pratapgadh Fort situated in the Satara district of Maharashtra – land of the Marathas – is a statement of the Maratha courage and loyalty and one of the founding stones of the Maratha Empire.
A weekend trip to Mahabaleshwar turned out to be a mix of relaxation, fun, food and history. This was the only trip we were able to take in 2020 before our world got confined to our homes. 25 kms. away from the popular hill station of Mahabaleshwar lies the historical Pratapgadh Fort. We made a day trip to the Fort from Mahabaleswar and spent most of the afternoon learning about its fascinating history.
Pratapgadh Fort from the foothills
History
Located at 3500ft, Pratapgadh Fort is a veritable bastion of Maratha bravery and craftsmanship. It was built in 1656 by the talented architect Hiroji Indulkar and Prime Minister Moropant Pingle on the directions of Chatrapati Shivaji Maharaj. It marks the site of Shivaji’s famous win over Afzal Khan in the Battle of Pratapgadh. Afzal Khan’s tomb is located nearby (can be seen from the Fort) as an act of respect by Shivaji.
Battle of Pratapgadh
This battle was fought between the Shivaji’s Maratha forces and Afzal Khan – a 7.5ft tall giant weighing 285Kgs. It is said that Shivaji invited Afzal Khan to his Fort as a sign of truce. However, Afzal Khan betrayed the truce and brought along his army hidden at the entrance to the Fort, displaying use of guerilla warfare tactics. He then tried to kill Shivaji with a concealed dagger after Shivaji had welcomed him into this chambers. Shivaji retaliated and instead fought and killed Afzal Khan with his bare hands (so it is said). The Maratha army defended the fort and defeated the enemy. The cleverly constructed Fort was especially helpful in guarding the King and his armies.
Pravesh Dwar
The Fort
Ramparts
Fort Architecture
The Fort was constructed as a place of ruling for Shivaji but more importantly as a defense line against enemies. This is clearly visible in the architecture and layout of the Fort. It is perched atop a hill which makes approach difficult anyhow. Then the entrance is built in such a way that soldiers can observe all entries to the fort but are themselves invisible to the newcomers. The higher ramparts contain concealing places for the soldiers who could attack would-be invaders long before facing an attack themselves. The Fort drops away to sheer rock face on all sides which makes it impossible to access it from any angle.
Entrance gate
Angled entrance
Some of the 475 steps
Vijay Cannon
Temple with golden top
The Fort includes a 350 year old Hanuman Mandir where Hanumanji’s statue has a full face blessing hand and the Sadariya Khalbat Khana or the Diwani-i-khas. It also houses the Vijay cannon which has a 2.5 km range, now moved from its original position atop the hill to the entrance passage. The gomukh gate is located atop the Balli (meaning, small) killa. On display near the temple is a sword owned by a soldier which has stars on it to indicate killing of a 1000 men!
There are a total of 475 steps to reach the very top!!
Present Day
View from the Fort
Today the Fort is home to 40 families descending from the soldiers or the staff of the royal house. It is a tourist attraction due to its rich history and its scenic location. The view from the top of the fort is beautiful. The fort offers 360 degree views of the impressive Western Ghats. There are shops selling food, souvenirs etc. run by the aforementioned families. They are the caretakers of this Maratha jewel.
In 1957, a 16 ft. statue of Shivaji riding a horse was built in his honor. A beautiful garden has been constructed surrounding the statue.
16 ft. statue of Chhatrapati Shivaji
Indian Haat: When we had visited in February, there was an indigenous “haat” being held there. Local handicraft goods like bags, toys, hats, jewelry etc. were on sale. The colorful merchandise was very tempting and I bought a few knick-knacks.
Tip: Make sure to hire a guide to tell you about the enthralling history of the fort and the Maratha Empire. All the above information was gleaned from our guide who was a descendant of a Maratha soldier.
To Reach: We drove from Mahabaleswar which took around 45 minutes. You can also reach via train, nearest station is Satara.
Tip: Make sure to reach early to get parking near the entrance, otherwise it will be a bit of a hike to reach the fort if you park further down the hill.
Other activities in Mahabaleswar
Trek to Elephant’s Head viewpoint – this is the most famous viewpoint here, you can see the mountain shaped like the head of an elephant. To be honest though, after several attempts we could not figure out where that elephant was! The view in general though was picturesque.
Ride a boat on Venna Lake – Surrounded by mountains, this lake is a lovely spot for a serene boat ride.
Visit MaproGarden – Mapro offers a wide range of squashes, jams, ketups etc. They have a processing unit in Mahabaleswar (outskirts) and it is now a tourist attraction with restaurants, shops, picnic spots. A must try is their strawberries with cream.
Eat strawberries – Mahabaleswar is famous for strawberries and produces 80% of the country’s output! So be sure to try out some.
Buy leather shoes – This area is also known for its leather goods, especially shoes. There are shops galore so choose well.
While we did do the first and last activities, we chose to skip out the rest and relax at our hotel,Jameson Villa. It was a colonial era cottage with big grounds, large leafy trees, 2 cute dogs and good food. We enjoyed a game of badminton in the cool evening air before unwinding with a hot cup of tea on the verandah. Ah, pure bliss. It was a weekend well spent.
View from “Elephant’s Head”
Tip: It gets quite cool after sunset so remember to pack your jackets.
I’m taking my blog to the next level with Blogchatter’s My Friend Alexa.
There are a few experiences we all wish to have some day. Call it the Bucket List if you will. One such wish of mine was to be in the midst of live snowfall. I hail from Kolkata in India and the coldest we get there is 10 deg. C. Snowfall was like a fantasy to me. My first experience with snowfall was in Auli, Himachal Pradesh. But that did not lessen the wonder and joy I felt when it started to snow on the way to Sandakphu from Tumling.
I visited Tumling with my family during the 1st week of January this year. It was a 2-day visit but it was an experience of a lifetime! It is such a quaint and picturesque village that I felt like simply roaming the streets and just staring in wonder at the beauty that surrounded me. Tumling has a rustic charm that beckoned me and got me hooked.
Tumling in panorama
Day 1
Maneybhanjyang-Land Rover-Tumling
We traveled to Tumling in a hired car (pre-booked) from Darjeeling. The car took us only upto Manebhanjyang, a pit stop for every traveler. It takes about 1.5 hrs to reach there – a distance of 26 kms. The drive is a pleasant one, with cold winds and amazing views of the Himalayas.
Tip: The fare from Darjeeling is in the range of Rs. 1500-2000 but do negotiate on this, especially if it is off-season.
Beyond Maneybhanjyang, conveyance is all under the control of the Land Rover Owners Welfare Association. There is no option other than hiring a car from the association. The rates for the cars are fixed based on your end destination, whether it is a round trip and whether or not you want the car to stay “overnight”. There are 2 types of cars available – an actual Land Rover or a Bolero (4-wheel drive); allocation is based on your destination (Tonglu/Tumling or Sandakphu).
Tip: Overnight means, the same car will be back the next morning to pick you up; the car doesn’t actually stay overnight. So be sure to let your driver know of your early morning plans if any. (In case your end destination is Sandakphu, then the car will stay over.)
Car rate card for Singalila National Park destinations
We hired a car for Sandakphu. This was actually a spur of the moment decision, one we were both thankful and regretful for the next day. I’ll explain why further on.
Tumling
Tumling is a tiny village located on the border between India and Nepal at an altitude of 2970 m (~9750 ft). It is an open border and you never even realize when you cross over to another country altogether. There is a stone pillar-ish outcrop that says “BHARAT” meaning, India. So the road to the village belongs to India but the actual village is in fact in Nepal.
It is a part of the Singalila National Park. To enter the national park, we were charged a fee of Rs. 100 per person and per car, per day. Singalila hosts a wide variety of flora and fauna, the most noted of which is the Red Panda. We, however, did not have the fortune to encounter one.
On the way to Tumling, we stopped at the village of Meghma to visit a famous monastery around 70 yrs old. Sadly the monastery itself was closed for prayer. But OMG the views from there are stunning and worth a visit for that reason itself! And there’s a cute little shaded bench on the edge on the mountain, where you can sit for eons and enjoy the view.
View from Meghma
Stupas @ Meghma Monastery
Monks enjoying a game of cricket
Reaching Tumling at about noon – 1 hour 15 minutes from Manyebhanjan – we were met with freezing weather and biting cold winds. But the village itself looked like a picture postcard! The car bumped along broken roads to drop us at our hotel – Shikhar Lodge.
Tip: Shikhar Lodge is a picturesque lodge with great services. Other lodges in Tumling are – Siddhartha Lodge, Satkar Lodge and Mountain Lodge.
The village of Tumling
Dumping our luggage, we took a walk about the area. The cold was enervating and we embraced it. We took some snaps against our cute little lodge, of the fabulous views of the hills and of us smothered under layers! Lunch consisted of simple homemade food – rice, daal, sabji and egg curry. The smoking hot, delicious meal was the perfect antidote to such cold weather.
Post lunch, we took off to explore this picturesque village. Tumling has only about 10-15 houses altogether, including lodges and teensy shops. Time slid away as we walked along the village road with a breathtaking mountain panorama spread out in front of us. We walked up the road leading to Sandakphu, upto a small temple at the crest of that road, where prayer flags fluttered wildly in the breeze. It was an enjoyable walk and the view coupled with the cold was wonderfully refreshing.
Prayer flags – Tumling
Road to Tumling
Evening was colder still so the lodge guys lit a fire for us creating a warm cozy atmosphere. Hot tea and pakodas while roasting our hands in front of the fire! That was a memorable evening and exactly what you’d imagine when visiting such places.
Tip: Wear layers – thermals, jackets, sweaters – as well caps, gloves and socks. Cover your nose as that keeps the warmth within.
Tip: Lodges are basic so be prepared. It would be better to have meals at the lodge itself since there aren’t any restaurants around, only one small snacks shop making momos and the like.
Day 2
Sunrise that wasn’t-unreachable Sandakphu-Snowfall!!
We woke up at 5 am and layered up to go out and watch the sunrise. Breaths freezing in our lungs – ZERO degrees!! – we climbed the mountain. Alas! It was a cloudy day and we couldn’t see a thing. On a clear day, the sun-rays sparkling on the Kanchenjunga would have made for a stupendous view – a golden Sleeping Buddha!
Tip: Be sure to catch the sunset in the evening.
Nepalese bread – sweet but yummy!
Sandakphu
View from Sandakphu. Pic credit: Wikipedia
Sandakphu is the highest peak in West Bengal (India) and Mechi (Nepal). It is known for its magnificent views of four of the world’s highest peaks – Mt. Everest, Mt. Kanchenjunga, Mt. Makalu and Mt. Lhotse. Sandakphu-Phalut is a popular trekking destination – the route beginning in Maneybhanjan and going through Tumling. Nowhere else in the world will you have this privilege of looking at the highest peaks of the world at the same time!
Sandak-Phu routes and distances
It was a cloudy day and there were forecasts of bad weather as the day wore on. Our car arrived late and we had to make a decision whether to abort our Sandakphu plan or not. Ultimately, we decided to take the risk – we would go until the point where it was feasible and then get back.
This journey offered us a different type of scenery – towering oaks and rhododendrons creating an arched pathway for us. This drive was one of the most scenic I have ever experienced. And then, partway into the ride, it started to snow.
On the way to Sandakphu
Wow!! We started in wonder at the snow as it rapidly carpeted the road. We stuck out our hands and tried to catch the snow (so childish I know!). Stopping at some random place, we got off to take some photos. But it was so cold, so cold that we got back into the warmth of the car pretty quickly. Crossing Jaubari, Gairibas and Kayakatta, we reached Kalapokhri, a mere 5 kms away from Sandakphu.
Kalapokhri was beautiful; it has a small holy lake and a cute temple residing among the mountains. It was beyond FREEZING by the time we reached there and snowing heavily. My hands were numb and my fingers barely moved as I tried taking photos. Standing in the midst of the buffeting wind and snow though, that feeling was unparalleled.
Kalapokhri
We spent about 15 minutes there after which the cold forced us to retreat into the car. Going further was pointless and risky so we decided to turn back from Kalapokhri. The journey back was fraught with tension. We were held up for a long time, since other cars were stuck in the 4-inch deep snow. Eventually we reached Tumling, picked up our luggage and drove back to Maneybhanjyang, and further onto Siliguri for our return to Mumbai the next day.
We regretted not being able to see the view from Sandakphu but boy were we thankful we got to experience the snow! It was a superb adventure!
Tip: The drive to Sandakphu is about 2.5 hours from Tumling and about 1.5 hours to return. Maneybhanjyang to Sandakphu return trip is about 6-7 hours. So, plan your trip accordingly. You can even stay at Sandakphu itself, it has homestays.
If you are looking for a vacation to a place off the beaten path, look no further than this charming village straddling the border. It is THE idyllic vacation which will relax and freshen your mind.
