Europe

One Day in Cork, Ireland

Cork was a flying visit 2 years ago when I accompanied my husband on his then-annual work trip to London. From there, he had a 1-day site visit to Cork and I happily tagged along because of course I wanted to see a bit of Ireland. While I did not get to see the famous cliffs which Northern Ireland is famous for, I got to see archetypal Irish township filled with history and culture.

Literally Jumping Into A Plane

Despite us reaching Stansted airport in advance, security check took aeons and by the time we were done they were calling for final boarding. We literally ran to the boarding gate and saw that there was no one to guide us. At a loss on where to go, we pushed open the door next to the boarding gate number and found ourselves on the tarmac!! We ran over the tarmac towards the correct airlines plane a few meters ahead of us and saw that again there wasn’t a single soul! On spotting a lone air hostess just inside the plane door, we shouted up from the tarmac, “Is this going to Cork?” and she nodded. We climbed up the stairs into the plane and she shut the door behind us. It felt so surreal! It was like getting on a bus, I have never had such an experience.

Tip: Arrive with lots of time in hand if you’re travelling via Stansted.  

Cork at Night

We arrived in Cork late evening and after checking in to the hotel, we ventured out to the city centre. Wrapped up in our coats in the pleasantly chilly weather, we enjoyed a stroll along the river – River Lee. With the lit-up streets lining the dark river, it was a pretty sight indeed.

Cork city centre is an island positioned between two channels of the River Lee which meet downstream at the eastern end of the city centre, where the quays and docks along the river lead outwards towards Lough Mahon and Cork Harbour, one of the largest natural harbours in the world. (Source: Wikipedia)

At night, all the shops were closed but the eateries were open, so we entered one for our dinner. Alas! it turns out that in majority of the restaurants, the kitchen closes by 6.30PM and only the bar remains open till about 2AM! Famished, we walked around for a while before we chanced upon a small pizza place to have one of the last remaining ones available – on the brink of time as the place was about to close.

Tip: Remember to get your dinner done in the early evening; we learnt this to our cost.

The Famous English Market

Next day, I started nice and early to start my 1-day tour of Cork City. I had planned my day quite well but as they say, the best laid plans…

I took a bus into town to my first stop of the day – the famous English Market. The English Market covers a huge area and is filled with all kinds of produce you can imagine, especially Irish specialties like Tripe and Drisheen, Spiced Beef, Kidneys and Skirts. There is also a huge fish and seafood section which boggled my mind; half of them I didn’t even know the name of. What attracted me most though, was the local cheeses available – innumerable delicious looking cheeses on display made me salivate.

The English Market has been trading since 1788 and has survived the Famine, wars, fire, revolutions and economic decline. The origins of the building date back to 1610 but the current building is from 1786. One of the reasons why the market came into focus in recent times was the visit of HM Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip in 2011, where Pat O’ Connell, a fishmonger, cracked a joke about an ugly monkfish which he had nicknamed as “the mother-in-law fish”, causing the Queen to erupt in laughter. The incident and that photo became famous very quickly and to this day that photo is up on the wall at the seafood section.

Walking Tour

One of the best ways to know Cork City is to take a walking tour. I took a public walking tour organized by Cork City Walk Tours (http://corkcitywalks.eu/). Bart was a lovely and knowledgeable guide who took us through the 2-hour walking tour.

Starting at the Fr. Matthew statue, Bart explained how the downtown district road was constructed to imitate the hull of a ship – an ode to its seafaring history. On the leisurely walk, I got to experience the compact 800 year old city, stroll the lanes of the 18th century Huguenot Quarter and gaze with wonder at Burges’s magnificent French Neo-Gothic cathedral. We also popped in to the Crawford Art Gallery, where we enjoyed the current exhibition and some permanent pieces.

It was an informative and thoroughly enjoyable tour, at the end of which Bart suggested a few choices of where to have lunch. I took his advised and had lunch at this quirky pharmacy turned restaurant – Arthur Mayne’s Pharmacy. Keeping the old décor of a pharmacy, it had a rustic feel and delicious food.

Elizabeth Fort

Post lunch, I set out exploring on my own, again walking. My first stop was Elizabeth Fort located on Barrack Street.

It’s a 17th century star-shaped fort which was built in the aftermath of the Battle of Kinsale held in 1601. It is situated on elevated ground and its main purpose was to protect the walled Cork City below. During its lifetime, it has been used as a military barrack, a convict depot for transportation of women prisoners, food depot during the Great Famine, an RIC station and until 2013 as a Garda station.

Throughout the fort there are evidences and displays which pay tribute to all the various functions which it has served as. Its location atop the hill leads to some supremely pretty panoramic view of Cork city.

Tip: Admission is free but guided tours are payable at €3 pax., starting at 1pm each day.

St. Fin Barre’s Cathedral

After my lovely time at Elizabeth Fort, I walked to my next destination – St. Fin Barre’s Cathedral. The cathedral was designed by William Burges and consecrated in 1870. It lies on a site where Christian worship has been offered since the 7th century.

Unfortunately, this is where my plan started to unravel. Upon reaching the cathedral, I saw that it was closed so I thought I would wait for a while for it to open back up. Meanwhile I spotted the Serenity Circle Labyrinth which is to be walked upon in prayer and meditation. I did the full circle and found it calming and rejuvenating.

Since my final destination was approaching its closing hours, I could not wait anymore to enter the cathedral, so I admired it from outside, took photos and left for Shandon Quarters. When I rounded the street, I realized to my dismay that I had actually been at the back of the cathedral and it, in fact, had been open all this time!! I chose not to enter and carried on to my next stop of the day.

Fitzgerald Park and Shaky Bridge

To reach Shandon Tower, I took the route via Fitzgerald’s Park. It is Cork’s premiere public park and contains a wide range of flora – mature trees, rose garden, floral bedding and a pond dating back to the Industrial Exhibition.

I simply passed through in a casual stroll and admired the fall colours of the trees lining the paths and the gardens. From the park, I walked on to the Shaky Bridge to reach the north side of the city.

Inaugurated in 1927, it is the only suspension bridge in Cork City. The term “Shaky Bridge” is derived from the movement of the platform when running or jumping on the bridge. Ofcourse I had to walk over it fast to check the authenticity! It did shake, even if lightly.

Missing Shandon Bells, but Butter Museum!

The walk to the Shandon Bells was long and cold and I was exhausted by the time I reached. But to my utter dismay, I saw that the final entry to the church and bells had closed just 2-3 minutes ago!! I felt like crying because this was something I had dearly wanted to see. If only I had walked faster, if only I hadn’t loitered so much in the park, etc. etc. If onlys wouldn’t bring back time so I checked my tourist map to see what else I could do. I landed upon a very interesting place – A Butter Museum!

Situated in the Shandon Quarter itself, the Butter Museum offers a glimpse into the past when the area was the world’s largest butter market. Butter is the signature food of Ireland and the museum offers an insight into Ireland’s most successful food export.

On entering, there is an informative video about how butter was buried in a bog to the 19th century Cork Butter Exchange to the global success of the modern Irish dairy industry. The Museum is small but that means I got to explore it all – the various tools and machineries used for butter churning used throughout the ages, the techniques used, the storage mediums and a lot more about the history of butter.

Tip: Entry is €4 but arrive well in time to be able to view one of their butter churning demonstrations; I missed it due to the late hour of the day. For more information, visit their website.

A Final Cheers!

Despite there being few upsets in my plan, I was happy with my day spent in Cork and I headed back to the hotel in a good state of mind. We had to leave that evening to get back to London but before that, we had one last mug of chilled beer which the Irish love – Guinness.

What to do if you have more time in hand

If you had more than one day in hand in Cork, below is a list of must-visit attractions in Cork.

  • Cork City Gaol – It is said original prisoner writing can be seen on the cell walls!
  • Shandon Bells – It houses the Four Faced Liar – the 4 faces show different times! – and a gold fish at the top. You can ring the bells – in a tune of your choice – and climb the tower.
  • University College Cork – Includes Ogam Stones collection – largest in Ireland, the Honan Chapel with beautiful mosaic floor and stained-glass windows.
  • Blarney Castle and Grounds – Situated 8kms. From Cork, this would have to be day trip. Its stone is said to have the power of awarding eloquence to those who kiss it!

Things to know about Cork before you visit

  1. Currency used is Euros (€) so be prepared especially if you’re traveling from London it may be a tiny shock.
  2. Kitchens close by 6.30PM so be sure to have your dinner by then (or atleast order it). Bar will be open till well afterwards.
  3. Buses generally do not ply in late evening – atleast I did not see any.
  4. Be on time as per brochures/websites to all your attractions.

The Quintessential European Town of Segovia

Aqueduct of Segovia

A few kilometers from the bustling capital city of Madrid lies the quaint little town of Segovia. Segovia is the exact picture of what you’d imagine a European town to be like – fabulous architecture, cobbled streets and captivating history. This cute little town awash in history and sporting some of the most beautiful representations of Gothic architecture, is a short day trip away from Madrid (approx. 90kms).

This was one of the best day trips I have ever taken. Read about my other day trips to Pratapgadh (Maharashtra, India) and Sausalito (San Francisco, USA) written as part of Blogchatter’s My Friend Alexa campaign which is how I’m taking my blog to the next level.

Getting There

I boarded a Renfe (Spain’s national train company) high speed AVE train from Madrid’s Chamartín station and reached Segovia Guiomar station in exactly 27 minutes. The train departed at 8:55 AM on the dot and pulled into Guiomar at precisely 9:22 AM as advertised. The journey was a smooth one and I loved the scenic countryside flashing by.

Guiomar station is located on the outskirts of Segovia – about 5kms from the town proper. So, from the station I took the No. 11 bus to reach the city, which took about 20 minutes. The timing of the buses are such that they offset with the arrival of the trains. The bus dropped me off right in front of the Aqueduct.

Tip: Book your tickets online here and exchange your booking confirmation for actual tickets at the station. The two-way ticket cost me ~ € 42 (including a small booking fee by GoEuro / Omio). Bus No. 11 fare is ~ €2 each way.

Tip:  Trains depart every hour (or lesser) from Chamartín throughout the day but my suggestion would to be arrive early in Segovia to be able to visit all the myriad attractions it has to offer. Though there are other ways to travel to Segovia from Madrid, this high speed train is the best option in my opinion.

The Aqueduct

The Aqueduct is Segovia’s main attraction and its pièce de résistance. It’s easy to see why people come in from far and wide to admire and gaze at this engineering marvel. As I stepped down from the bus, I looked up at the beautiful arches of the aqueduct and was spellbound. I went up and down its length, climbed up the structure and looked across its breadth taking pictures and simply enjoying its beauty.

The Roman Aqueduct of Segovia was built in the early 2nd century to supply water to Segovia. It used the principle of gravity and natural slope to convey water from the Rio Frio river to the city. Water was carried on the upper channel and crossed the city under the ground up to the Alcazar. It is considered a masterpiece of Roman hydraulic engineering whose stones are joined by neither cement nor mortar. It has 167 arches in its entirety and a total length of ~16000 meters from its origin in Guadarrama mountain range. The Aqueduct was declared a National Monument in 1884 and a World Heritage Site in 1985.

Tip: You can also visit the Aqueduct Visitor center which contains interactive multimedia exhibit to help you travel through 2000 yrs. of history of the monument.

Alcázar de Segovia

After spending a leisurely time at the Aqueduct, I ventured further into the town. Walking along its cobblestoned streets in the lazy afternoon sun was a joy indeed. Further on, I encountered the city walls and stood and admired the vibrant green valley view spread out in front of me. About 20 minutes later, I arrived in front of my next stop – The Alcazar of Segovia. The Alcázar is basically a castle; it became one of the favorite residences of the then king and queens. Built over a period of 5 centuries (11th – 19th) from the reign of Alphonse VI to that of Philip II, this palace was the residence of the Castilian Monarchs during the middle ages. The “Old Palace” was extended in 15th century when several rooms were added:

  • El Solio: Throne Room; houses the throne commissioned for visit of Alfonse XIII and Queen Victoria Eugeria.
  • La Galera: Galley Room; named after its moulded ceiling resembling the hull of a ship upside down.
  • Las Piñas: Pine Cone Room; named after the 392 peculiar pine cone carvings on its ceiling.
  • De Reyes: Monarchs Room; decorated with a frieze depicting the monarchs of Asturias, Castile and León.
  • Del Cordón: Cord Room; named after the Franciscan cord decorating its walls.
  • De Capilla: The Chapel, witnessed the nuptial veiling ceremony between Philip II and Anna of Austria. It also houses Bartolomé Carducho’s “The Epiphany” painting.

The Alcazar was the State Prison in the 18th century and the Royal Convert of Artillery in 1764. Currently, it houses the Military Historical Archive. Most parts of this monument can be visited including its roof. After visiting all the rooms and fantastic exhibits, I headed to the tower. The view from the Tower of Juan II was terrific!

Tip: Summer hours (April – September) are from 10 AM to 7 PM while the winter hours (October – March) are from 10 AM to 6 PM. Tickets were ~€11 for a palace + tower top visit. Check details here.

The Cathedral of Segovia

My final stop before lunch was The Cathedral of Segovia. I had initially planned to spend about 15-20 minutes in the cathedral – after all how much time can one spend while sightseeing in a cathedral, right? Wrong! This cathedral has the most sublime glass paintings, wall paintings and magnificent sculptures. I was so fascinated with all of the art this place has to offer that I was there for nearly 2 hours goggling at the absorbing creations of the great masters.

The original Cathedral called Santa Maríe was of Romanesque style but after its destruction in the Comuneros War (Communities’ War), the church was rebuilt in Gothic style though its conception echoes the Renaissance era. Constructed on the proposal of Charles V, this church was dedicated to The Ascensión of Maria to Heaven and Saint Frutos (Patron Saint of Segovia). It has a 3-nave structure and an ambulatory.

Some of the most glorious artworks are: the sculpture of St. Andrew, The Descent from the Cross triptych by Flemish painter Ambrose Benson, Renaissance altarpiece with sculptures of The Immaculate, Baroque grillwork by Antonio de Elorza, the Tree of Life etc. Other important works of Pedro Berruguete, Sánchez Cuello and Van Orley are housed in this cathedral.

Mesón de Cándido

Apart from the Aqueduct, the other thing that Segovia in known for is Cochinillos or roasted suckling pig. Even though it is available in various parts in Spain and in a lot of restaurants in Segovia, I chose the best and the original – Mesón de Cándido. It is a traditional Spanish cuisine consisting of tender, succulent roast pig fresh from wood-fired ovens. The dish put me in gastronomic heaven! This is a must-do in Segovia!

La Granja Castle

Palacio Real de La Granja de San Ildefonso or the Royal Palace of La Granja in San Ildefonso was the next and final stop of my Segovia trip. It is located in the outskirts of Segovia (approx. 10 kms.) in the town of San Ildefonso. To reach, I boarded a La Sepulvedana bus from the stop in front of the Aqueduct, heading into the hills. It took about 20 minutes to reach La Granja whereupon I de-boarded in front of the castle entrance.

Tip: Visit the La Sepulvedana bus station to collect a bus time table so you can plan your La Granja trip accordingly. Buses leave every 45 minutes from the station.

Due to the long time spent in the Cathedral and my laid-back splendid lunch, I did not have a lot of time on my hands to fully explore the castle. However, I did have time enough to visit all the palatial rooms and the wonderfully kept gardens. I moved from room to room admiring the paintings like the ceiling frescoes and the luxurious furniture (an understatement) like the ornate elaborate four posters and chest of drawers, armchairs etc. Then there was the vast, dazzling collection of gold jewelry, urns, lamps, utensils etc. and finally, the armoury and artillery rooms.

Tip: Photography is prohibited inside the castle so commit everything to memory. You can however take pics of the palace façade and its grounds.

Lost!

After breezing through the castle visit, I made it on time to the bus stop, barely – or so I thought. However, there were no buses to be seen. Usually the buses run like clockwork so I started worrying that I had missed it. Soon, a bus arrived. Initially I was told that I was in the opposite direction, but then that one turned out to be wrong too. In the end, I didn’t board the bus, I contemplated walking, yada yada. Anyway, to cut a long story short, I missed my bus and thereby my chances of catching the return train on time.

I broke out in cold sweat but after a call to my husband, who managed to calm me down, I eventually got my head on straight and boarded the next (correct) bus to Segovia. From Segovia, once again Bus. No. 11 took me to Guiomar for my return to Madrid. Thankfully the very sweet guy at the ticket counter understood my predicament and kindly changed my ticket to that of the next train. God bless him!

Fondest Memories

Although there were a few bad moments at the end of the trip, Segovia was a superb experience which I fondly remember till date. I hope to visit again someday.

Tip: While there are other attractions in Segovia, I feel the above curated list consists of the best ones that can be enjoyed in a day. Do take some time out of your day to simply roam the streets and enjoy the serene beauty of the place.

PARIS – of Towers, Gargoyles and Crepes!

Cover Pic Paris

Paris is beautiful. There is no other way to describe it. It is a visual treat, a balm to the mind and a joy to the heart. Sometimes famous things do not live up to the hype (one such example is mentioned later on in my post) but Paris will live up to all you have heard about it. The City of Love will win you over; clean bowled!

Not the Best Beginning but who cares?!

Long flight-challenges-excitement

Unlike my last foray, this time I did fly over international waters. I faced a few challenges upon landing – my luggage arrived at the very end, my international sim card didn’t seem to be working and then it took ages to locate Albert who was to receive me. It took over an hour to reach our destination – the Novotel (company-arranged) which is where I put up during my stay. I gave myself an hour to get freshened up since it was already nearing midday and then…I started my Paris sojourn. All this drama had not dimmed my excitement one iota; I kept thinking “I’m in Paris, I’m in Paris!”

Tip: The receiving area at the CDG airport is actually inside the airport itself. If you have reached the taxi ranks know that you have crossed that receiving lounge.

Tip: The Schengen visa process for France is a relatively simple one though it requires a lot of documents. You need to book an interview slot, be there to submit your documents, answer a few questions and get your biometric done. The visa should reach you in about 5/7 business days.

Day 1

Louvre-Monalisa-Street Music-Seine-Ile de la Cité-Notre Dame-Berthillon

I had planned extensively on what to do in the mere two days that I had to play tourist and I was eager to get started. You know what they say, “best laid plans…” I started out with my little “planner” diary but hit a literal roadblock almost immediately. The metro stop closest to my hotel was closed for renovation – in fact, so was a major chunk of the routes I had planned to use – since the day before. But, no worries, Google Map to the rescue; it was my savior then and throughout my trip! It rerouted me via buses/alternate metro stations to my 1st stop of the day – collection of my passes/The Louvre Museum.

Passes

There are various types available online – Paris Pass, Paris City Pass, Paris Pass’lib, Museum Pass, Transport Pass being the most common ones. These passes allow you to visit most attractions for free, give discounts on some activities (cruise, shopping, eating) and most passes also have the additional “skip-the-line” advantage. Based on which attractions I wanted to visit and the time I had on hand, I chose the Museum Pass and the Transport Pass. These would cover all museums plus some added attractions and my inter-city travel respectively; cost was also the most optimized.

Tip: The Paris Pass includes both travel and sightseeing but you will not be able to take full advantage of its benefits in only 2 days, trust me. It is also costlier than the Museum and Transport (2 days) pass combined.

Note: Eiffel Tower is not included in any of the passes, it requires a separate ticket altogether (which you can book online).

Street Music

I walked from the metro stop to the Tourist Office to collect my passes (ordered online). As I walked, I gazed at the buildings and streets – everything was so neat and colorful and just so pretty. On the way I chanced upon a group of musicians playing on the street – a mini orchestra with violins. I stood there and listened to the wonderfully melodious music for a while basking in the sunshine. I think I fell in love with Paris then.

Tip: Remember to pick up information booklets and city + transport maps of Paris from the Tourist Office. They are really helpful.

Armed with my passes, I walked to my first attraction of the day – The Louvre Museum. I skipped right to the front of the line due to my museum pass and entered the vast main hall, collected my tickets and an information booklet.

The LOUVRE

There are 3 wings in the Louvre – Denon, Richelieu and Sully – named after notable Frenchmen. Each of the wings is spread over 5 levels and houses an unimaginable plethora of paintings, sculptures, antiquities of varied styles and from various eras dating as far back as 4000 BC!!

The Denon wing contains many of the best-known works of art, the Richelieu wing has sculpture terraces and apartments of Napoléon III and the Sully wing focusses on the history of the Louvre.

The Louvre is vast and it is impossible to see everything in a day; in fact, it is said you would need atleast a week to visit each of the exhibits! Well, I had only a few hours so, predictably, I chose the Denon wing which, among others, housed the famous ‘Monalisa’. [Currently, the painting has been shifted to Galerie Médicis in the Richelieu wing.]

The Denon wing had some really wonderful sculptures and paintings which I thoroughly enjoyed. I actually lost track of time in wonderment of the diversified artwork and ended up spending over 3 hours there – and I had only covered a fraction! – but it was an amazing 3 hours.

I exited from the museum proper onto the courtyard in front of the famous Louvre glass pyramids and spent some time taking photos and feeling star-struck. I fondly remembered the last scene of the Dan Brown novel and (the movie buff and geek that I am) recalled the last poem,” The Holy Grail…”

The Louvre also includes the Carrousel and Tuileries Gardens and the Musée Eugène-Delacroix. They are situated at 5- and 15-minutes’ walk from the Louvre respectively. The Tuileries Gardens is known for its flower beds and shaded groves and is an open-air sculpture museum. Do visit these if you have the time; I didn’t since I spent way too much time inside the museum.

Monalisa

I may be crucified for what I am about to say but the Monalisa disappointed me; it didn’t really amaze me and left me puzzled as to its fame. But I am not an art connoisseur and am probably wrong. It is a small painting really, hanging solitary on a huge wall and cordoned off within 4 feet. There was quite a crowd in front of it, all snapping away gaily. I, however, did feel a sense of awe knowing that I was in the presence of the most famous work of the great Leonardo Da Vinci.

Leonardo Da Vinci’s Monalisa

The one painting which I did love and was awed by was the Wedding Feast at Cana by Veronese which hangs on the opposite wall of Monalisa. Measuring 22 ft. by 32 ft. this painting was fascinating.

Wedding Feast at Cana by Veronese

Île de la Cité and Seine

From the Louvre I took a bus to the next stop on my agenda – the Notre Dame Cathedral. The cathedral is located on “Île de la Cité”. The Ile de la Cite is an island which lies at the centre of Paris and is connected via bridges to the mainland. It is a charming place with cobbled streets, vibrant shopfronts and cute houses.

My bus stop was actually on this side of the Seine River and I walked across one of the bridges to the island. It was a pleasant stroll in the breezy afternoon and I stopped midway to enjoy the beautiful picture the river posed. There were several street performers on the bridge as well – singers, magicians (I enjoyed that for a few minutes) and guitarists. The atmosphere was such a joyful one!

NOTRE DAME

A few minutes’ walk into the Ile de la Cité will bring you to the Notre Dame Cathedral. It took almost 200 years to build this glory of Gothic architecture which was the largest religious building in western Europe until the mid-13th century. This symbol of medieval Paris is a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Notre Dame allows free entry into the cathedral proper. As a result, the queues were huge on a Saturday – it would take me atleast 2 hours! So, I chose an alternative.

Notre Dame cathedral facade

The towers of Notre Dame are its most famous feature. Victor Hugo’s famous novel The Hunchback of Notre Dame described them as “beautifully balanced parts of a magnificent whole”. This is where I headed. Entry to the towers are chargeable but I got free entry via my museum pass although there was no skip the line allowed and I had to stand in queue (much smaller one than the cathedral one). Visitors are allowed to go up in groups of 20 every 10 minutes.

To get to the top of the tower, I had to climb 400 steep steps which kept getting narrower the more I arose. The first stop was the Chimera gallery which gets its name from the statues gracing the façade; the most famous one is “styrga”.Next comes the south tower belfry which houses the cathedral’s 2 largest bells dating back to the 17th century!

After the strenuous climb, I was awarded with the most stunning view – the entire city of Paris laid out in an incredible vista before me. I could see the Eiffel Tower, the gleaming Sacré-Coeur, the Seine and the pretty houses of Paris. It was one of the best experiences of Paris for me. I stayed there for ages just gazing out at the beautiful sight.

Crepes and Berthillon

It was now time for lunch. This was when I understood one thing about Parisians – they love and almost always eat, al fresco. You will find the inside of restaurants empty, but the outside tables brimming with patrons. But the Indian in me couldn’t bear to sit in the sun for so long – I ate inside. I chose French baguette ham sandwich and crepes for my meal. The baguette was melt in your mouth tasty and the crepe was to die for! Perfect introduction to French cuisine.

I followed up that delicious meal with ice cream from Paris’ famous shop Berthillon; one scoop of salted caramel and raspberry each. O my my, the cold creamy goodness made my day!

I wanted to end the day with shopping; however, when I made my way to this shopping district  – Latin Quarter – all shops were closed!! So, I roamed the pretty streets just looking into and admiring storefronts before heading back to my hotel. On the way back, the bus stops confused me a bit and I got lost – Google maps turned me round and round in search of a particular bus stop for almost an hour! Thankfully, I spotted it in the end after which I called it a day.

Tip: Most shops (not restaurants) close by 7PM and are closed on Sundays as well, so plan your shopping stints accordingly.

Tip: Strange and notable thing about Paris bus stops – there may be a stop A and there may be a stop B but sometimes there may be a stop A-B. So, when you are looking for a hyphenated name most always it is an in between stop on a small by-road.

Day 2

Eiffel Tower-Orsay Museum-Saint Chapelle-Seine Cruise

I began the next day nice and early. The first agenda of the day – the Eiffel Tower!! A 45 minute metro ride and a 10 minute walk took me to Champs de Mars, the location of the Tower.

EIFFEL TOWER

The first sighting of the icon was when I was about 2 minutes away from the actual location and its sheer size amazed me. But the real wonder of it dawned on me when I finally stood in front of it. The Eiffel Tower was breathtaking! Towering 1063 ft. above ground, the wrought-iron lattice structure is a thing of beauty.

There are 3 levels – the top one being at 906 ft.! To buy tickets, I had to stand in line for almost 1.5 hours and the top level got filled out by the time it was my turn, unfortunately. There is a limit to people allowed on each level due to space crunch and top level being significantly narrower, gets crowded quite soon. I was told I could go up once it freed up a little. Though slightly disappointed, nothing could dampen my mood on this gorgeous sunny day.

Tip: The first 2 levels are part of the normal entry ticket while there is an extra charge for the top-level observation deck. Tickets can be bought online but remember to book it well in advance. Online tickets will state date and time and will save you standing in line.

I rode the lift to the first floor – it’s an angled rise along the “legs” of the tower. The elevator ride itself is an exhilarating experience. You can also take the stairs but it will be a daunting task – believe me because I climbed down them and the steps seem never ending. The view from the 1st 2 levels of the tower is a phenomenal one. The 360-degree view of the Paris landscape is mesmerizing. I spent a long time simply admiring the view until it was time for me to leave.

Panoramic view from 2nd floor of Eiffel
At the base of the monument is a head statue of Gustave Eiffel, an ode to the creator of this incredible monument which is a wonder of the world.

Walks

After I descended from the tower, I spent some time photographing it from the lawns of Champs De Mars. I then walked to my lunch appointment with a relative. Walking in Paris was one of my favorite memories of the city. Colorful alleys shaded by trees and pretty houses all make the soul so happy. This time I had lunch al fresco keeping in trend with the Parisians – it was an enjoyable experience. Post lunch, we spent some time roaming the streets, over the numerous bridges – most notable The Pont Alexandre III. Strolling along the river with the breeze on my face will forever be etched on my mind. We ended up at my next sightseeing attraction – The Orsay Museum.

MUSEE D’ORSAY

The Orsay Museum is a renovated railway station which was inaugurated for the World Fair 1900. It was converted to a museum in 1986. It boasts of a diverse range of paintings, sculptures, photography which represent the evolution of western world art from 1848 to 1914.

Orsay Museum was more my kind of museum – I admired and just loved the paintings because I understood them, they were more identifiable and overall appealed to my novice senses. Monet’s famous “Blue Water Lilies” resides here and is enthralling to look at. Degas, Manet, Van Gogh, Gauguin – amazing collections of these famous artists blew my mind. I enjoyed wholly and whole heartedly here. The high arched ceilings draw your gaze while what captures your heart is the massive Victorian station clock at the end of the building – a remnant of the original building. This is a definite must visit, I recommend!

SAINTE CHAPELLE

After spending almost the whole 2nd half of the afternoon at the Orsay, I made my way to the last attraction of the day – the Saint Chapelle.

Located in the center of Île de la Cité, the Saint Chapelle is a royal chapel of the Palais de la Cité. It was built between 1242 and 1248 as per Louis IX’s wishes to house the relics of the Passion of Christ. The relics were displayed in the upper chapel while the lower chapel was a place of worship for the palace staff.

Lower chapel

Today, the lower chapel houses a statue of the Virgin Mary and, on its left wall, the oldest wall painting in Paris – a 13th century fresco depicting the Annunciation. The upper chapel is a thing of wonder – its brilliance leaves you dumbstruck! The reason is the famous stained-glass windows which are breathtaking.

The 15 tall, arched and glamorous stained-glass windows contain 1113 scenes depicting the story of mankind from Genesis to Christ’s resurrection. 14 of these are to be read left to right, from bottom upwards, while the 15th which tells the story of the relics are read boustrophedonically. Boustrophedonically means reading from bottom upwards and alternate lines are read in opposite directions – left to right then right to left. The windows left me gaping at them while I tried to absorb the magnificence of the shimmering and dancing colours and patterns.

SEINE Cruise

My last activity of the day was a different kind of sightseeing – a cruise. I took a cruise on the Seine river. The cruises run from 10.30am-10pm and are of three types – lunch, dinner or plain sightseeing. I chose the last one. There are various companies offering their services but upon reading reviews I settled on Bateaux Parisiens.

Aboard the deck of the panoramic boat, I looked up at the towering Eiffel again and admired it – the cruises depart from the foot of the monument. One glance at this wonder is simply not enough. Once the cruise began, though, I had a lot else to look at. The 1-hour ride with commentary was another memorable experience in Paris. The wind in your hair while you glide through the water, under arching – and sometimes dangerously low – bridges, with the pretty city of Paris surrounding you – it is just the most amazing feeling! The tour gave glimpses of Les Invalides, La Place de la Concorde, L’Assemblée Nationale, La Conciergerie among others.

All too soon, we were turning back to return to our starting point but not before one last surprise. As evening fell and we approached the end of the cruise, the Eiffel Tower lit up in welcome and did its light dance – they sparkled and winked for 5 minutes and was the perfect end to my cruise and the day. My love for Paris was cemented in place.

Day 3 & 4

Work-French Food-Bye

This was a work trip and that’s what took up most of the next 2 days – work and some more work. However, at lunch and the end of each day, we i.e. my colleagues and I went out for French food. Those 4 meals were filled with classic French cuisine – confit duck, flammekueche, a fabulous starter with pork fat tuna and last but not the least – blue cheese! The foodie in me was entirely satisfied.

After 4 ½ days in Paris, it was then time to say goodbye to this beautiful city which had made a permanent place in my heart.

Some places which I missed out on due to scarcity of time, are mentioned below.

In summary, for a 2-day Paris trip:

  • Day 1: Louvre, Tuileries Garden, Notre Dame (do not miss the tower!), Arc de Triomphe & Champs-Élysées, Pantheon, shopping.
  • Day 2: Eiffel Tower, Orsay Museum, Sacré-Cœur, Saint Chapelle, Seine Cruise.

They say “there’s a museum at every corner in Paris”, so be sure to take in your quota of atleast 2-3 museums when in Paris. I had sorely wanted to visit the Palace of Versailles but it is located quite a bit outside the city and the journey to and from would be about 3 hours. Sadly, I had to let that dream go.

2 days barely scratches the surface of Paris but it will give you a taste and feel of what an amazing city it is and will leave you wanting more. I know that I am definitely going back there some day for an encore.

Tip: There is fear of pickpockets in most of the tourist spots, so it is advisable to not use backpacks; rather wear your bag cross-bodied and keep your belongings close to you and within your eyesight at all times. This is something a lot of people have advised me including resident Parisians.