The year – 2019. The place – Himachal Pradesh. The travelers – my husband and myself.
We had just reached the campsite for penultimate day’s stay in Chandratal. Read about the first part of our trip and our journey to this place here in Part 1 and Part 2.
After lunch and rest, began the final leg of our trip.
The Mini-trek
Chandratal – “taal” meaning lake – is situated at an elevation of 14000ft and is a holy lake. It is a mountain lake – nestled at the base of and surrounded by mountains. We started our trek towards the lake at around half past three in the afternoon by following a path just behind our campsite. We walked through grass covered hills, flowers here and there and were greeted by sheep once. Through it all we had the nippy mountain air and the gorgeous Himalayas as our guide.
Up and down through arcs and troughs we went until suddenly we realized we were lost! We were supposed to have reached the lake by now but we didn’t seem to be even close. There were no maps – Google or otherwise – to help us. So, we backtracked a bit till we could see the vehicle-road below and then followed the trail parallel through it. Finally, finally, after we had crested a small hillock, we could see the lake from above! What a wondrous sight! Hues of green and blue merging with each other and the white-peaked mountains all around.
Trek Scenes
In Panorama
Tip: Vehicles aren’t allowed right up to the lake. There is a particular point upto which vehicular movement is restricted after which one will need to hike to the lake. We took the more meandering and circuitous trekking route to the lake. The more conventional route is via car to the last point allowed for cars and then the small walk.
In the light of the setting sun, we hiked back to the camp via the road route. We were greeted by tea and maggi back at the camp. Ah, bliss! Once dark, the temperature dropped to single digits and we were left shivering. So we quickly ducked back to the dining camp for hot soup. Barely an hour later, we had our dinner and then we were ready to bunk down.
Day 8: Chandratal to Manali
At the crack of dawn the next day, we had to start for Manali. We started off after a quick tea consumed standing up and with our breakfast packed. The reason for this was the melting of glaciers as the day wore on. With the rising sun, the glaciers melt and overrun the road thereby making passage difficult. Guided by the Chenab River this time, we drove on, sometimes between walls of snow higher than our car, sometimes right by the gushing river and sometimes with the mountains up close to us. We stopped for lunch at Chhatru – hot paranthas with achhar – and then were quickly back on the road.
Dawn Scenes
En route to Manali
Chenab River
Glaciers melting
At Chhatru
We faced trouble in paradise shortly after lunch. Our car broke down! Amidst mounting tension, our driver and we tried to think of ways to reach Manali. Eventually we got a lift in a car whose driver was a friend of our driver – thank the HP drivers’ community.
Our one stop before Manali – Rohtang Pass. At the snow clad Rohtang, we stopped to admire the view but declined from playing about in the snow. We made it to Manali late evening. Evening was spent on a leisurely walk through Manali’small road and we returned to our hotel after dinner at the mall.
Rohtang Pass
Final day: Half day Manali trip & Return to Mumbai
The next day was a relaxed one to “recuperate” from our vacation. Just one small visit to the Hadimba Devi Temple where we offered our prayers in gratitude for our trip. A little bit of shopping and we were ready for our return to Mumbai.
Hadimba Devi Temple
The amazing adventures of Spiti
While it may seem like a hectic trip with one night at each place, in reality there wasn’t any running from one attraction to the next. Spiti is all about the journey, the scenery and the company of loved ones. There is no mobile network (except for BSNL, I’m told) and so it is refreshing change from social media, work and news. Spiti is a place to just be, to absorb the beauty and bounty of nature.
Tips for Spiti:
Some other places to visit in Spiti are:
Chitkul
Kibber (known for snow leopards)
Losar
You can change the itinerary to just pass by some of the places and/or to stay the night in the ones we passed by eg. Dhankar or Nako.
Best time to visit: Pre-monsoons to winter are the times to visit but as per me, best time is the pre monsoon where you can enjoy the desert mountain scenery to its utmost. Monsoons are a little dangerous with respect to roads while winter can cause heavy snowfall thereby blocking out some of these places entirely. And, all white may be a different kind of pretty but will not give you the effect of the “desert” beauty.
Weather: During pre monsoons, weather is cool to chilly during the night and warm during the day. In Chandrataal though, due to the winds, it is chilly during the day and quite cold during the night. Suit up accordingly.
Best way to travel: By car, in a group so that expenses are divided is the best way to travel.
Expenses: We had medium budget stays in some places and some basic ones. Local food mostly vegetarian with eggs was what we consumed. We, a couple, traveled by car so that cost wasn’t shared. Our cost for the trip was around ₹75,000. For a larger group – optimum 4 – this will be lesser.
This is a jewel of Himachal, plan your trips soon!
The year – 2019. The place – Himachal Pradesh. The travelers – my husband and myself.
One of the most scenic and traversed routes in the Himachal is the Spiti and Lahaul Valley circuit. It takes a minimum of 8 days to cover the bare essentials of this gorgeous trip; ours was of 9 days. It is somewhat of a hectic trip but being surrounded by nature’s serene beauty, it didn’t feel that way at all.
The Route
Spiti and Lahaul valley is dotted with numerous villages along its entire route; however we chose our circuit based on distances and locations we wanted to visit most and were feasible in the time span we had.
Our final route, starting from Shimla via car was:
Sarahan – Kalpa – Pin Valley – Nako – Tabo – Dhankar – Kaza – Ki-Kibber – Langza-Komic-Hikkim and finally the star Chandratal Lake! We ended our trip in Manali via Rohtang Pass.
Some of these were small villages we visited enroute to our final destination for the day while the rest were our night stops in major (relatively) towns. While most people do the circuit the other way round – from Lahaul to Spiti – we chose to do it the Spiti-Lahaul way.
The Valley
Lahaul and Spiti is the desert of the mountains. Nestled among The Himalayas, it is an area which receives minimum rainfall; in fact, rainfall is actually harmful to majority of the region. The two valleys are separated by Kunzum Pass or Kumzum La. The average elevation is around 14000 ft. which gives it pleasantly cool weather during the summer and monsoon seasons and biting cold during the winter.
The arid desert mountains of Spiti
Preparations
Conveyance: Spiti can be reached via air, bus or car. The best way to travel though, is by car. One can get to enjoy the scenery of the land and the mountains while traveling in a car. We hired a car from Chandigarh (start) to Manali (end) to cover the entire circuit; this was done with references online and then via phone.
Bookings: We only booked our hotel in Kaza for 2 nights’ stay and that in Manali for 2 nights. The rest of our night halts were on the advise of our driver who guided us to the best places to stay in locally.
Our transport for the whole trip
Itinerary
Day 1: Shimla to Sarahan
We flew from Mumbai to Chandigarh on an early morning flight (read: inhuman hour) and then took a cab from Chandigarh to Shimla. After a quick lunch in Shimla, we started off.
Here onwards started our trip – from the Shimla district. While our initial plan for the day’s pit stop was Narkanda, we finally drove further on to end our day at Sarahan. It was night by the time we reached so we freshened up and just crashed for the night.
A drizzly day
Day 2: Sarahan, onto Kalpa
The next day dawned bright and clear. We woke up early to poke around Sarahan a little bit and to look at the views. Sarahan is known for the Bhimkali Temple which is the home of the revered goddess Bhimkali. We offered our prayers and receives blessings from the goddess for our onwards journey.
Bhimkali Temple
At a tiny eatery nearby, we had a breakfast of Maggi and momos and we were ready for the day. We started for Kalpa, driving along the Sutlej River to enter the Kinnaur. The gushing river, the tall mountains and the greenery along with the cool weather made for such a pleasant journey. After all, it’s the journey that matters!
We reached our day’s destination in the early evening. After we put up at our hotel, we set out on foot to explore Kalpa.
Rampur Bridge
River Sutlej
Random scenery on the way
KALPA
The three main attractions in Kalpa are:
Narayan Nagini Temple
Hu Ba Lan Kar Monastery
Kinnaur-Kailash Range
We visited the beautiful monastery and paid our respects but unfortunately the temple was closed. We admired the beautiful pagoda style architecture and the splendid view of the mountains from the temple’s courtyard. After a leisurely walk around the village, we returned to our hotel.
Over hot pakodas and tea, with a view of the gorgeous Kinnaur-Kailash range, we spent our evening chatting away. It was such a relaxing day – an idyllic location, comfort food and great company.
Hu Ba Lan Kar Monastery
Atulya Bharat!
Pagoda Style
Narayan Nagini Temple
View from the Temple
Kinnaur Kailash at twilight
Tip: Other things to do in Kalpa –
Visit Sapni Fort
Go to Roghi Village
Hiking to Chaka
Day 3: Kalpa to Nako & Tabo
Once again, we had an early start to the day. In the hills, that’s the way to be. One hot breakfast later, we were on our way to the Spiti Valley. Driving through gorgeous mountain scenery, still following River Sutlej, we were enchanted. At Khab Sangam, we stopped for tea and to stretch our legs. This was the confluence of the rivers Sutlej and Spiti. We broke off to the left to finally enter Spiti Valley. Here the river was more voluminous and deep – the lifeblood of the valley.
Early morning view of the Kinnaur Range
Khab Sangam behind me!
The River Spiti
NAKO
Our first stop in Spiti was Nako, where we reached in the afternoon. We stopped here for lunch and for Nako’s most famous atrraction – Nako Lake. This mountain lake, surrounded by trees is considered to be a scared lake by the locals. We spent a serene hour sitting at the lake and admiring the beautiful surroundings.
Tip: Other things to do in Nako is to visit the Nako Monastery.
Nako Lake
TABO
Soon it was time to get back on the road to our sojourn through Spiti. In the early hours of the evening, we reached Tabo. This charming town was our halt for the day. Eager to explore the town, we quickly dumped our stuff and took off walking. Soon we came upon a path taking us up a hillock overlooking the town and set upon it. Huffing and puffing our way up, we reached the top and sat down on a rock to look at the wonderful panorama in front of us. Cute little houses interspersed with greenery nestled at the foot of the Himalayan mountains – what a sight to behold. We sat there till the light faded away and we returned to a sumptuous dinner at our hotel.
Tip: There are actually some caves atop that hillock and the more adventurous person can venture inside but we opted out due to tiredness and the imminent darkness.
Day 4: Tabo, onwards to Dhankar and Pin Valley
TABO Pt. 2
Today held something exciting for me – I was going to go on a mini trek. But before that, there was Tabo to discover to our heart’s content. After breakfast in the quaint little dining room of our hotel – wooden benches and floor seating -, we went walking around Tabo.
The Tabo Monastery is over 1000 years old! It contains hand painted murals, painted tapestries, scrolls etc. The monastery grounds contains other structures built of clay and mud, and there are collections of flat stones which the Buddhists amass for good luck. The stones are inscribed with their prayer – “Om Mani PadMe Hum”.
There’s also a newer monastery – Chorten – which is a modern brick structure and more colorful and sporting and beautiful stupa. We couldn’t enter this one though, because it wasn’t open yet.
From there, we took a walk down to the river bank where the Spiti river flowed gaily. We did some shopping of prayer flags, artefacts and such. Then came the time to start our day’s journey – onwards to Dhankar. It was noon by the time we reached.
Tabo Monastery
Inscribed holy stones
The new Chorten
Riverside in Tabo
Our Tabo abode
Dhankar!
My Spiti story continues in the next part, coming soon! There’s so much still left, keep an eye on this space.
The year – 2019. The place – Himachal Pradesh. The travelers – my husband and myself.
We were on Day 4 of our trip. Read about the first 3 days and the first part of Day 4 here.
Day 4 Continued...
DHANKAR
Immediately on arriving, we embarked on our hiking quest; destination – Dhankar Lake. It usually takes about 3 hours total to complete the trek. We needed to climb up one hill, and go down the other side where the lake lay and then come back the same way. It was high afternoon and extremely sunny and hot, so we carried supplies like water and biscuits. We crested the hill, saw the lake from afar and then made our way back; all in less than 2 hours.
Trek Views…
Dhankar Lake
The trek itself was a satisfying one; the amazing scenery, the adrenaline high and the adventure was wonderfully enervating. But, the lake was a let-down to be honest. There was barely any water and one lone stupa guarded it. This, plus the heat and hunger, prevented us from going all the way down and so we made an early escape. Back down, we had lunch in a blessedly cool eatery and recharged our batteries.
Tip: Post monsoons, the lake would be lovely and should be worth a visit. Carry sunblock and hats, shades and wear comfortable shoes for your trek. Water is of course of utmost importance.
After lunch, we visited the Dhankar Monastery. The monastery is built on a clay mountain outcrop, finely balanced and overlooking the confluence of Spiti and Pin river. It almost looks as if its teetering on the edge of the whole mountain! In the monastery, we were served tea which came long with some stories of the gompa and its monks and then guided through the monastery itself.
Dhankar Monastery on the top left corner of the settlement
We restarted our drive after lunch towards Pin Valley which was to be our halt for the day. As always, the stunning scenery was our companion. Our driver advised us to stay the night at Mud village, and then visit Pin Valley the following day. Accordingly, we traveled to the small Mud village. We walked around to enjoy the beauty of nature – there were the mountains, the Pin river and a small half frozen waterfall. We put up at a homestay in Dhar Pilsur on the outskirts.
On the way to Pin Valley
This cutie guided us through the Mud village
Day 5: Pin Valley, Key, to Kaza
PIN VALLEY
Early the next morning, after a breakfast of local breads and eggs, we visited the Kungri Gompa (Monastery) to see the festival held there. There was an hour of dancing by the monks in colorful costumes – the devil dance. Outside, the locals were selling various handicrafts and homemade items – like egg noodles, gloves, socks etc. The whole affair was fascinating! This was the Tsheshu Fair, held across all monasteries in Spiti, turn by turn.
Kungri Monastery
Local bread – today’s breakfast
After we had enjoyed the festival, we started our day’s journey which was to end in Kaza. Our first stop after Kungri was the Key (or Kye/Ki) monastery located in its namesake. Perched atop a hill, the Key Monastery was beautiful and the whole picture it presented with the brown mountains, blue river, green fields and white clouds floating above was absolutely stunning! We toured the place thoroughly and looked around the area, simply savouring the solitude and nature’s gifts.
On the way to Key
Key village
Key Monastery
Inside the monastery
Next stop was for lunch in Chicham Khas and then finally onto Kaza in the late afternoon, where we were to stay for the next day as well. Rest of the day – evening and night – was spent in exploring around in Kaza, some shopping and dinner with live music. Vacation goals!
Chicham Khas
Day 6: Langza - Komic - Hikkim
Today was to be a half day trip from Kaza to the nearby villages of Langza, Komic and Hikkim, each of which were known for some reason apart from their pretty locations among the Himalayan mountains. First up, Langza which is known for its giant Buddha statue situated on the mountain top overlooking the valley beyond. When we went there, the statue was undergoing restoration works but we could still see the magnificent statue of the serenely seated Buddha gazing down at us. Langza is also known for its fossils which one can find if they went on an expedition.
From there, it was a quick drive to Komic. Komic, at over 15000ft, is the highest village connected with motorable road. One of the highest monasteries in India is located here. We went inside and offered our prayers at the monastery and the head monk gave us his blessings with a shawl adorned with their prayers! At the “world’s highest restaurant”, we had maggi and tea to refresh ourselves before moving on to visit our next and final stop.
Next up was a fun place to visit – Hikkim. While it is lower in altitude than Komic, Hikkim plays host to the highest post office in the world! This post office is still functional though I think a lot of its mail is outgoing – from the highest post office to various parts of India. We too did the same; we sent postcards to our parents back home in Kolkata. It gave me a thrill to drop those postcards into the box.
Langza
Buddha statue @Langza
Komic
Komic Monastery
Hikkim
After this, it was time to return to our base location, Kaza. We had a late lunch at Hotel Deyzor; an amazing local Spiti dish – the thentuk. In the evening we chances upon some people we had met in Dhankar and had a lovely time chatting to the group and then retired for the night.
Kaza
Tenthuk
Day 7: Kunzum Pass, Chadrataal
CHICHAM & KUNZUM LA
The next day, on e again, we were up early. One hot breakfast later, we continued on our Spiti voyage to the final destination – Chandrataal Lake. From Kaza to Chandrataal is the most stunning scenery I had ever seen or would see. This mountain desert with its bare faced slopes with spur-like outcrops and the Spiti river meandering in between, is unbelievably beautiful. I ran out of adjectives eventually.
One of the most exciting event of the day was crossing over the Chicham bridge. Chicham Bridge, connecting the villages of Kibber and Chicham is the highest bridge in Asia. It stands over a gorge over 1000ft deep! It literally gave me the shivers looking down into the gorge below. Earlier, villagers used to travel via buckets on rope suspension! Can you even imagine?
Chicham Bridge
Our next stop was the Kunzum La (Kumzum Pass). Located at a height of about 15000ft, Kunzum La connects Spiti Valley to Lahaul Valley. Some truly magnificent sights awaited us here. Snow capped peaks all around and the wind whipping hard at us. We paid homage at the Kunzum Stupas and prayed for a safe journey ahead.
At Kunzum La
Those mighty Himalayan glaciers
CHANDRATAL
As we entered Lahaul Valley and journeyed northwards, the weather started getting cooler and we could see snow gathered by the roadside. By early afternoon, we reached this day’s last stop. We were going to do camping! That is to say, we would stay the night in camps amidst the mountains, near the Chandratal. The tents weren’t as basic as the ones during my trek. There were proper beds with bedding, toilets and even a chair and table in the tents along with gas lamps! Then there was a communal dining tents with tables and benches for meals. We had our lunch upon arrival and then we were off. We were going to trek to the lake!
Tip: We did the booking for the campsite via phone after online research. Ours was Parasol Camps and it is closest to the trek trail.
Camp!
Follow the remainder of my journey in the upcoming post – Part 3 of the Lahaul-Spiti experience. Keep an eye on this space.
I continue from where we left off – due to my fright to dip below the water for our first snorkeling foray, I was left alone on the boat staring at the deep blue sea around me and wishing I had had the courage to join the rest of the team.
Day 2: Snorkeling & Dolphins!
The gang of snorkelers who had gone for the activity (including my husband) came back with wonderful tales of seeing turtles and marine beauty. The guy who had accompanied them on behalf of the organizers was also disappointed that I wasn’t able to see all of that and he offered to help train me before the next snorkeling expedition and I agreed. How sweet!
Do not do what he is doing – let them be
Photos of the turtle coral reef that I missed
Picnic time
Our next stop on the half day tour was a tiny uninhabited island for our beach picnic. After a lazy lunch under large beach umbrellas and a walking tour of our island – including a photography stint, it was time for my training session. The trainer explained how the snorkeling gear works and how I should breathe through my mouth; he asked me to submerge myself little by little so that I could practice this. Lastly, I was told that I had to simply kick my legs to propel myself forward. Finally, he took me along for my first ever snorkeling experience and what an amazing feeling it was! It was like the underwater which had seemed like a scary monster was now my friend! I was ready for the next dip for our actual 2nd snorkeling excursion.
Marine Biodiversity
The snorkeling trip was an eye opener. A whole new world had opened up before me – a world popping and undulating with colors and textures. In the calming silence of underwater, I witnessed a wide variety of flora and fauna, indigenous to the Indian Ocean. Here was a school of dazzling yellow fish just swimming along, there was a brightly patterned shoal of tiny fishes darting by or oh hey, there’s a jewel bright blue fish! The coral reefs were full to the brim with life and sometimes scary creatures – eels, water snakes and what not. There were also myriad varieties of aquatic plants which existed harmoniously with the other creatures. It was marine biodiversity at its best.
I spent almost an hour underwater, just gazing at these marvelous finds and enraptured by the beauty of nature – the live corals, the fishes that call it home and the plants which are an integral part of this ecosystem.
Contribute towards Conservation
Appreciate the world established by our creator, of nature which always gives and never asks for anything in return. Do your part in helping preserve this marine life, in making sure they come to no harm.
4 (four) ways in which you as an individual can contribute towards conservation of our wonderful aquatic ecosystem:
Use less plastic – plastic harms all marine species, often fatally. Limit your plastic use, especially one-time usage.
Do not pollute the water – this is home to myriad sea-life; do not throw your trash into it.
Do not uproot the coral – this is their source of food and shelter, not a collectible; this is also illegal
Do not poke / prod or touch the creatures when on dives/snorkeling – worship and admire the beauty from afar, do not disturb them.
I am doing my bit by raising awareness through this post with the aid of Blogchatter’s Cause a Chatter campaign.
Day 3: Water Sports
The next day, or rather late afternoon, we engaged in a few more water activities.
Wind Sailing: First up was wind sailing. This too was something I had never done before so I was pretty excited. We set out on a small sailboat which bobbed lightly as we progressed. It was a pleasant feeling. This initial part of wind sailing receives its power from a small motor. However, partway out to the sea, the motor was stopped, the sails were unfurled and the power of the wind thrust the little boat ahead at jet speed! The boat zoomed ahead, cutting a path through the water and we held on to the rails for dear life! Wheee! It was such an adrenaline rush; the speed generated by the wind was unbelievable. Whizzing along on the water with the wind in your hair and face and teensy fear of falling overboard – what an amazing feeling it was. This is a must-try!
Sailboat and Us
Canoeing: A 2-seater canoe and just us with no guide – sounds intimidating but it was a fun and calming experience. We rowed as slow or as fast as we wanted, in whichever direction we desired (within a given boundary for our safety). Drifting along the water, with the setting sun as the backdrop was the perfect way to end the day.
Tip: It’ll take a couple of minutes to adjust your rhythms and synchronize your rowing so that the canoe doesn’t just stall in one place or go round in circles. Once you establish a pattern, only then venture out further ashore.
Again, we spent the first part of the day quietly enjoying the water and the beaches, refreshing our jaded selves and having a gala time sampling the various foods the island had to offer.
Day 4: Island Hopping & Shopping
Our final day in Maldives included one last water sport – riding a jet ski. That was an exhilarating ride, and a very wet one! We hurtled through the water at jet speed with water spraying on us from all sides. We took a pit stop at another island where there was a lovely stretch of deserted sandy beach to take some commemorative photographs, spot some baby sharks and stingrays.
Back at Maafushi, we shopped for some mementos – tshirts, shell keyrings, postcards, magnets etc. Most of them were reasonably priced but of course we haggled (dil hai Hindustani!).
Laden with presents and memories to last a lifetime, we bid adieu to the delights of Maldives early the next day via the speedboat and a flight from Male.
Other Itinerary Options
The aim of our trip was to relax and have a laid-back holiday. So we choose to do only this much and spent most of our time lazing on the beach or roaming the streets of our island. We also rented a bicycle for a few hours and just pedaled our way across the tiny Maafushi. If you would like to take in a few more attractions or activities, there are plenty available.
Scuba diving – be aware that you need to keep a gap of atleast 24-48 hours before boarding a flight after diving.
If you ever want to relax on the sand, soak up the sun and enjoy views of a startlingly blue ocean, The Maldives is the place to be in. It is one of the ultimate holiday destinations that I have ever been to. It is a place where you can either be a complete sloth and be as laid back as possible or engage in a variety of water sports and activities – and all the while indulge your taste buds to the hilt.
Choosing the best island
The Maldives is an archipelago located in the Indian Ocean. It comprises of 1192 islands or atolls with an overall length of 871 kms. and only 298 sq. kms. of dry land out of 90,000 sq. kms. Out of the 200 inhabited islands, few are complete resorts on their own while the others have tourist hotels, shops intermingling with local residences.
Tip: Choosing your ideal island will depend on your budget, your preferences of activities – water sports, culture & history, or simply nothing. Check out this link to decide: https://visitmaldives.com/en/places.
Considering all factors, I chose to stay on Maafushi for our time in the Maldives. It is a mid-range island with options of water sports plus a span of empty beaches.
Getting there
The capital city or atoll of Male is the connect to the rest of the world via flight. As we landed, we got our first view of the water, within touching distance – it was so exciting! From Male, we took a shared speedboat to reach Maafushi – it took about 30 minutes. That ride was the first taste of being on the eye-wateringly blue ocean, of feeling the wind in my hair and the freshness of the nature around me.
Tip: The shared speedboat cost around $70 per head for round trip; a private speedboat would cut you back by $185. The other option to travel to your island of choice is by the local ferry from Male. That will take around 2 hours but costs much lesser – $2.
Tip: Visa is free on arrival.
Landing at Male airport
Currency
The currency of Maldives is Maldivian Rufiyaa, however the USD (US dollars) is widely accepted and you can easily carry out all your transactions with the latter. Since Maldives is a tourism-oriented country, all prices be it for activities, lodging or food is listed in USD for your ease.
Where to Stay
There are a multitude of options for accomodation in Maldives ranging from über luxurious resorts spreading over one whole island to mid-range hotels (which are still pretty costly) to budget hotels mixed among the local residences.
We booked a budget hotel called Stingray Beach Inn, which was a cosy hotel with hammocks in the garden and its own parrot!
Stingray Beach Inn (pic from Agoda)
Tip: Do bargain on hotel prices. Ours was for ~$125/night (after bargaining down from $140), check out the internet for current prices.
Day 1: Soak up the Atmosphere
After reaching Maafushi, we were escorted to our hotel where we freshened up and jumped right into vacation mode. The beach was a stone’s throw from our hotel, and we strolled up to the edge of the water. The sea was like a painting – innumerable, unimaginable hues of blue smoothly blending into each other and gently lapping onto white sands; it was paradise We simply enjoyed the whole atmosphere – the warm sun and the cool water and oodles of leisure time.
Trivia: The different shades of blue signify various depths of the ocean; for e.g. the light blue means that part of the sea is not too deep and the color is derived from the white sands beneath. The indigo is the deepest portion of the sea with marine life underneath. Isn’t that interesting?!
Upon arrival, we had an off-putting experience. We were met by the hotel’s manager who told us that our hotel was full and that they had arranged for alternative accommodation for the initial 2 days. However, their offered one was a pretty good hotel at par with what we’d booked so we were comforted. Tiny blip over.
Tip: The hotels overbook considering they will have some cancellations, so beware of your booking – talk personally to the manager.
The beach was never more than a 5-minute walk from any part of the island since the island is so small – in fact you can actually see from one end to the other width wise!
The rest of the day was spent in relaxing on the beach, walking from one end of the island to the other, peeking into shops and having delicious seafood. We also booked a package of water activities covering the next 2 days.
The day ended with us slurping on cold, yummy ice cream! This eventually became a trend of our stay there. There was this cute little shop selling ice creams for $1 and we just loved them.
Help Save Our Oceans
The lovely ocean that has given us so much pleasure is in danger; we all need to do our bit to help save and preserve the pristine nature of our water bodies.
I am doing my bit by raising awareness through this post with the aid of Blogchatter’s Cause a Chatter campaign.
Day 2: Snorkeling & Dolphins!
The 1st of our package activities included a half-day snorkeling outing. This involved a ride out to the deep ocean on a boat, 2 snorkeling forages punctuated with a beach picnic. It took about an hour to reach the deep portion of the sea where the coral reefs were to be found.
In between, we stopped at a dolphin haunt and were able to see several dolphins frolicking in the water, as if performing acrobatics for our pleasure. They were so cute and funny!
It’s hard to pin down a photo. But look closely, in the far distance, one is doing cartwheels!
For snorkeling, it’s said that its doesn’t matter whether you know swimming or not. We have life jackets on for our safety and the snorkeling head gear in place which helps us breathe underwater. I do not know swimming and when the time came to plunge into the water, I was terrified. I still tried – bravely. But as soon as I dipped below the water, the utter silence of underwater ensconced me from all sides, the pressure of water on my ears scared me such that I swallowed a whole load of salty water and jumped back above, coughing. Though I tried couple more times, I just could not do it.
The rest of our party carried on and were gone for a full hour. As I sat on the boat alone, I resolved to do better the next time.
Lockdown and work from home has provided a small silver lining. After ages, I have been able to stay in my hometown Kolkata for more than a few days. For the last several years it has always been a flying visit but this time, due to the facility of working from home, its a longer visit. Taking advantage of that, I have been around the city and reacquainting myself with its beauty.
They are just phone snaps, taken from a moving car at most times but my city enchanted me all over again and I would like to share the beauty of my hometown with everyone. Presenting, the City of Joy, Kolkata!
Red RoadPrinsep Ghat and Vidyasagar Setu in the backdropFloodlights of Eden GardenEden Gardens outside facadeVictoria on the move…Rabindra SadanRandom city road click2nd Hoogly Bridge or Vidyasagar SetuGreenery @ Prinsep GhatVictoria Memorial (from the car)Durga idol at the festivalRandom road click 2 – and because we rarely see so much greenery in MumbaiKali idol at Kali Pujo (in bengal) festivalA local game of football in progress
Victoria Memorial
Diwali Lights!Biswa Bangla Gate
I will keep adding to this post as and when I explore more. Its been wonderful getting to know my city all over again!
Valour. Honour. Integrity. That’s what the Marathas stand for. Pratapgadh Fort situated in the Satara district of Maharashtra – land of the Marathas – is a statement of the Maratha courage and loyalty and one of the founding stones of the Maratha Empire.
A weekend trip to Mahabaleshwar turned out to be a mix of relaxation, fun, food and history. This was the only trip we were able to take in 2020 before our world got confined to our homes. 25 kms. away from the popular hill station of Mahabaleshwar lies the historical Pratapgadh Fort. We made a day trip to the Fort from Mahabaleswar and spent most of the afternoon learning about its fascinating history.
Pratapgadh Fort from the foothills
History
Located at 3500ft, Pratapgadh Fort is a veritable bastion of Maratha bravery and craftsmanship. It was built in 1656 by the talented architect Hiroji Indulkar and Prime Minister Moropant Pingle on the directions of Chatrapati Shivaji Maharaj. It marks the site of Shivaji’s famous win over Afzal Khan in the Battle of Pratapgadh. Afzal Khan’s tomb is located nearby (can be seen from the Fort) as an act of respect by Shivaji.
Battle of Pratapgadh
This battle was fought between the Shivaji’s Maratha forces and Afzal Khan – a 7.5ft tall giant weighing 285Kgs. It is said that Shivaji invited Afzal Khan to his Fort as a sign of truce. However, Afzal Khan betrayed the truce and brought along his army hidden at the entrance to the Fort, displaying use of guerilla warfare tactics. He then tried to kill Shivaji with a concealed dagger after Shivaji had welcomed him into this chambers. Shivaji retaliated and instead fought and killed Afzal Khan with his bare hands (so it is said). The Maratha army defended the fort and defeated the enemy. The cleverly constructed Fort was especially helpful in guarding the King and his armies.
Pravesh Dwar
The Fort
Ramparts
Fort Architecture
The Fort was constructed as a place of ruling for Shivaji but more importantly as a defense line against enemies. This is clearly visible in the architecture and layout of the Fort. It is perched atop a hill which makes approach difficult anyhow. Then the entrance is built in such a way that soldiers can observe all entries to the fort but are themselves invisible to the newcomers. The higher ramparts contain concealing places for the soldiers who could attack would-be invaders long before facing an attack themselves. The Fort drops away to sheer rock face on all sides which makes it impossible to access it from any angle.
Entrance gate
Angled entrance
Some of the 475 steps
Vijay Cannon
Temple with golden top
The Fort includes a 350 year old Hanuman Mandir where Hanumanji’s statue has a full face blessing hand and the Sadariya Khalbat Khana or the Diwani-i-khas. It also houses the Vijay cannon which has a 2.5 km range, now moved from its original position atop the hill to the entrance passage. The gomukh gate is located atop the Balli (meaning, small) killa. On display near the temple is a sword owned by a soldier which has stars on it to indicate killing of a 1000 men!
There are a total of 475 steps to reach the very top!!
Present Day
View from the Fort
Today the Fort is home to 40 families descending from the soldiers or the staff of the royal house. It is a tourist attraction due to its rich history and its scenic location. The view from the top of the fort is beautiful. The fort offers 360 degree views of the impressive Western Ghats. There are shops selling food, souvenirs etc. run by the aforementioned families. They are the caretakers of this Maratha jewel.
In 1957, a 16 ft. statue of Shivaji riding a horse was built in his honor. A beautiful garden has been constructed surrounding the statue.
16 ft. statue of Chhatrapati Shivaji
Indian Haat: When we had visited in February, there was an indigenous “haat” being held there. Local handicraft goods like bags, toys, hats, jewelry etc. were on sale. The colorful merchandise was very tempting and I bought a few knick-knacks.
Tip: Make sure to hire a guide to tell you about the enthralling history of the fort and the Maratha Empire. All the above information was gleaned from our guide who was a descendant of a Maratha soldier.
To Reach: We drove from Mahabaleswar which took around 45 minutes. You can also reach via train, nearest station is Satara.
Tip: Make sure to reach early to get parking near the entrance, otherwise it will be a bit of a hike to reach the fort if you park further down the hill.
Other activities in Mahabaleswar
Trek to Elephant’s Head viewpoint – this is the most famous viewpoint here, you can see the mountain shaped like the head of an elephant. To be honest though, after several attempts we could not figure out where that elephant was! The view in general though was picturesque.
Ride a boat on Venna Lake – Surrounded by mountains, this lake is a lovely spot for a serene boat ride.
Visit MaproGarden – Mapro offers a wide range of squashes, jams, ketups etc. They have a processing unit in Mahabaleswar (outskirts) and it is now a tourist attraction with restaurants, shops, picnic spots. A must try is their strawberries with cream.
Eat strawberries – Mahabaleswar is famous for strawberries and produces 80% of the country’s output! So be sure to try out some.
Buy leather shoes – This area is also known for its leather goods, especially shoes. There are shops galore so choose well.
While we did do the first and last activities, we chose to skip out the rest and relax at our hotel,Jameson Villa. It was a colonial era cottage with big grounds, large leafy trees, 2 cute dogs and good food. We enjoyed a game of badminton in the cool evening air before unwinding with a hot cup of tea on the verandah. Ah, pure bliss. It was a weekend well spent.
View from “Elephant’s Head”
Tip: It gets quite cool after sunset so remember to pack your jackets.
I’m taking my blog to the next level with Blogchatter’s My Friend Alexa.
One never forgets their first international trip, I believe. A scope to see what the world outside your world looks and functions like. Dubai was a realization of fantasies, of images transforming to actual 3D! When the opportunity to visit Dubai arose as part of my work, I jumped at the chance. I waited with bated breath for the day to arrive when I would fly over international waters (not literally in this case).
Godspeed
Arrival-Fancy Lodgings
I arrived in Dubai late on a Sunday evening along with a colleague (my boss to be precise). It is just over 3 hours from Mumbai to DXB airport. We flew Emirates which, in my opinion, is the best airlines ever. Visa procedure is quite simple for UAE; in my case it had been arranged by my company.
Tip: Single females need to get a permission slip signed by their guardian for travel to UAE. However, the rule may have changed in the last 5 years, please check the same.
We stayed at The Sheraton Hotel, Deira. Deira is the erstwhile commercial center of Dubai. It is an area which caters to tourists with its many hotels and restaurants. Since the booking was done by my company, I did no research for this part. I can say though, this was a superb hotel with an amazing breakfast spread!! For me, that was the standout. Location wise it was great as well, since it was surrounded on all sides with restaurants and shops within walking distance. The main tourist attractions were also close by – a 20-minute cab ride away.
All That Glitters
First look-Teaser
My first impression was that Dubai was so shiny! Everything gleamed and twinkled as we made our way from the airport to the hotel. The roads were wonderful, there was no traffic to speak of, and all around me glass and chrome buildings sparkled. I couldn’t wait to go out and explore this magnificent city.
In the backdrop of all this was the heat. Even in the month of September, it was crazy hot in Dubai (and I’m from India!). In the daytime, the “loo” wind was like a sharp slap to the face – oppressively hot. It is only then you are reminded of the fact that Dubai is in fact a desert. Other than that, the opulence of the city, the brilliant greenery (which is missing in Mumbai even) can make one easily forget that the Emirates are supposed to be a desert.
All Work and No Play
Work-but yummy food
The first 3 days in Dubai were spent in work – 9 to 7 – meetings, work, work and some more work. Those first 3 days, most I saw of Dubai were the streets, inside of cabs and the hotel room. I did get some chance to go out for dinners to the nearby restaurants in Deira and try out Arabic and middle-eastern cuisine. It was lip-smackingly delicious – kababs, breads and hummus!
We did go for some shopping in local supermarkets and gift shops. There was nothing to write home about in those shops but buying even normal stuff in a foreign country feels so thrilling!!
Tip: For foreign currency, in my experience, the best way is to use your credit card for payment rather than forex cards because in the end the card payment comes cheaper after exchange rates and GST.
Sharjah
Good Things Come To Those Who Wait
Dubai Mall-Burj Khalifa-the Souks
Finally, though, the day arrived when I could play tourist. On the penultimate day in Dubai, we got off work early. So, we set off to explore Dubai. We headed to the Dubai Mall and the Burj Khalifa.
Dubai Mall
Dubai Mall is the second largest shopping mall in the world and hosts top brands of any imaginable category. It is so huge that simply walking from one end to the other would take hours! We took quite a bit of stops in between at various shops especially the candy shop. So many varieties of candy – it is very tempting to even grownups let alone children.
Dubai Aquarium
Candy!
@Dubai Mall
The mall houses the Dubai Aquarium and Underwater Zoo, which apparently has 300 species of marine life. I unfortunately did not enter the actual zoo due to lack of time, but I did see the aquarium. I stood gawping at the beautiful and varied collection of fishes for ages. Do visit this place from the inside when you are there.
It also has a beautiful wall of waterfall that is a piece of artwork. In addition, the mall has direct access to the Burj Khalifa, which is located right beside it. The “At the Top” entrance to the Burj Khalifa is actually inside the mall itself. You can purchase tickets to the top view decks from inside the mall.
Tip: Tickets for top deck view were for $95 – 4 years ago. If you book in advance online, they are much cheaper.
There is also an air-conditioned footbridge which connects the Mall metro station to the mall directly. With so much going on, the Dubai Mall is a must-visit on a trip to Dubai if only to be amazed by its sheer size!
Burj Khalifa
BURJ KHALIFA
The iconic landmark of Dubai, Burj Khalifa is the tallest building in the world. It stands tall at more than 2700 ft. while its spire is another ~2700 ft. The Burj Khalifa is 165 stories high and includes commercial, corporate and residential floors. At the top, it has viewing decks open for tourists which gives a panoramic view of the entire city of Dubai.
I, however, did not get the time to go upto the view decks. I did go to the front of the building and oh my! Let me tell you it is a sight to behold! Calling it huge is an understatement but craning your neck up to look at the lit-up façade is an amazing feeling.
Tip: You aren’t allowed to stop in front of the structure for only viewing purposes, so the best photo-taking opportunity is to enter nearby streets and stop for a while.
The Souks
The last day in Dubai, we had just an evening free before our flight back to India. We decided to visit the famous Dubai “Souks” i.e. markets. There are three main bazaars – Gold Souk, Spice Souk and Perfume Souk. What amazing sights we got to see!!
If I’d thought Dubai glittering before, it was nothing compared to the souks. Dazzling with colors of all kinds, it was a place to get lost in wonder. The blindingly bright gold souk with series of gold shops on both sides of the long canopied street, beckoned me. Even though I was sorely tempted, I resisted and did not buy anything.
Tip: Even though the 24k gold is cheaper than elsewhere, the making charges are actually higher than in India. Do keep that in mind while gold shopping. Also, customs only allows Rs. 50,000 worth of stuff to be imported into India.
The spice souk is an assault on the senses – colors and smells of varying kinds. Cinnamon, cardamom, cloves and the most famous of all – saffron. Saffron is of the highest quality here and at very reasonable prices.
Lastly, my favorite one – the perfume souk! The shops here were so attractive! There were rows and rows of perfumes in fancy bottles lined up on the shelves. We chose a shop at random and entered. I had such a gala time there exploring the innumerable perfumes. Sweet, spicy, sharp, subtle – you name it they had it. I bought 4 types of perfumes which they packed for me in these cute tiny bottles. To this day, they are one of the best fragrances I have ever used.
Apart from these main ones, there were the usual touristy shops and I did buy a few mementos – magnets, postcards, keyrings and the like.
Tip: Be ready to haggle and choose wisely.
Spice Souk. Pic credit: Musafir
Alvida
The time in Dubai seemed to be over so quickly. All too soon, it was time to return home. Before that, one last memory of Dubai was its airport. Dubai Airport is enormous and is a mall in itself. Roaming the shops was quite a good time and I did some duty free shopping of chocolates, make-up and more perfume (eek!). An apt way to say good-bye to this city.
There are a few experiences we all wish to have some day. Call it the Bucket List if you will. One such wish of mine was to be in the midst of live snowfall. I hail from Kolkata in India and the coldest we get there is 10 deg. C. Snowfall was like a fantasy to me. My first experience with snowfall was in Auli, Himachal Pradesh. But that did not lessen the wonder and joy I felt when it started to snow on the way to Sandakphu from Tumling.
I visited Tumling with my family during the 1st week of January this year. It was a 2-day visit but it was an experience of a lifetime! It is such a quaint and picturesque village that I felt like simply roaming the streets and just staring in wonder at the beauty that surrounded me. Tumling has a rustic charm that beckoned me and got me hooked.
Tumling in panorama
Day 1
Maneybhanjyang-Land Rover-Tumling
We traveled to Tumling in a hired car (pre-booked) from Darjeeling. The car took us only upto Manebhanjyang, a pit stop for every traveler. It takes about 1.5 hrs to reach there – a distance of 26 kms. The drive is a pleasant one, with cold winds and amazing views of the Himalayas.
Tip: The fare from Darjeeling is in the range of Rs. 1500-2000 but do negotiate on this, especially if it is off-season.
Beyond Maneybhanjyang, conveyance is all under the control of the Land Rover Owners Welfare Association. There is no option other than hiring a car from the association. The rates for the cars are fixed based on your end destination, whether it is a round trip and whether or not you want the car to stay “overnight”. There are 2 types of cars available – an actual Land Rover or a Bolero (4-wheel drive); allocation is based on your destination (Tonglu/Tumling or Sandakphu).
Tip: Overnight means, the same car will be back the next morning to pick you up; the car doesn’t actually stay overnight. So be sure to let your driver know of your early morning plans if any. (In case your end destination is Sandakphu, then the car will stay over.)
Car rate card for Singalila National Park destinations
We hired a car for Sandakphu. This was actually a spur of the moment decision, one we were both thankful and regretful for the next day. I’ll explain why further on.
Tumling
Tumling is a tiny village located on the border between India and Nepal at an altitude of 2970 m (~9750 ft). It is an open border and you never even realize when you cross over to another country altogether. There is a stone pillar-ish outcrop that says “BHARAT” meaning, India. So the road to the village belongs to India but the actual village is in fact in Nepal.
It is a part of the Singalila National Park. To enter the national park, we were charged a fee of Rs. 100 per person and per car, per day. Singalila hosts a wide variety of flora and fauna, the most noted of which is the Red Panda. We, however, did not have the fortune to encounter one.
On the way to Tumling, we stopped at the village of Meghma to visit a famous monastery around 70 yrs old. Sadly the monastery itself was closed for prayer. But OMG the views from there are stunning and worth a visit for that reason itself! And there’s a cute little shaded bench on the edge on the mountain, where you can sit for eons and enjoy the view.
View from Meghma
Stupas @ Meghma Monastery
Monks enjoying a game of cricket
Reaching Tumling at about noon – 1 hour 15 minutes from Manyebhanjan – we were met with freezing weather and biting cold winds. But the village itself looked like a picture postcard! The car bumped along broken roads to drop us at our hotel – Shikhar Lodge.
Tip: Shikhar Lodge is a picturesque lodge with great services. Other lodges in Tumling are – Siddhartha Lodge, Satkar Lodge and Mountain Lodge.
The village of Tumling
Dumping our luggage, we took a walk about the area. The cold was enervating and we embraced it. We took some snaps against our cute little lodge, of the fabulous views of the hills and of us smothered under layers! Lunch consisted of simple homemade food – rice, daal, sabji and egg curry. The smoking hot, delicious meal was the perfect antidote to such cold weather.
Post lunch, we took off to explore this picturesque village. Tumling has only about 10-15 houses altogether, including lodges and teensy shops. Time slid away as we walked along the village road with a breathtaking mountain panorama spread out in front of us. We walked up the road leading to Sandakphu, upto a small temple at the crest of that road, where prayer flags fluttered wildly in the breeze. It was an enjoyable walk and the view coupled with the cold was wonderfully refreshing.
Prayer flags – Tumling
Road to Tumling
Evening was colder still so the lodge guys lit a fire for us creating a warm cozy atmosphere. Hot tea and pakodas while roasting our hands in front of the fire! That was a memorable evening and exactly what you’d imagine when visiting such places.
Tip: Wear layers – thermals, jackets, sweaters – as well caps, gloves and socks. Cover your nose as that keeps the warmth within.
Tip: Lodges are basic so be prepared. It would be better to have meals at the lodge itself since there aren’t any restaurants around, only one small snacks shop making momos and the like.
Day 2
Sunrise that wasn’t-unreachable Sandakphu-Snowfall!!
We woke up at 5 am and layered up to go out and watch the sunrise. Breaths freezing in our lungs – ZERO degrees!! – we climbed the mountain. Alas! It was a cloudy day and we couldn’t see a thing. On a clear day, the sun-rays sparkling on the Kanchenjunga would have made for a stupendous view – a golden Sleeping Buddha!
Tip: Be sure to catch the sunset in the evening.
Nepalese bread – sweet but yummy!
Sandakphu
View from Sandakphu. Pic credit: Wikipedia
Sandakphu is the highest peak in West Bengal (India) and Mechi (Nepal). It is known for its magnificent views of four of the world’s highest peaks – Mt. Everest, Mt. Kanchenjunga, Mt. Makalu and Mt. Lhotse. Sandakphu-Phalut is a popular trekking destination – the route beginning in Maneybhanjan and going through Tumling. Nowhere else in the world will you have this privilege of looking at the highest peaks of the world at the same time!
Sandak-Phu routes and distances
It was a cloudy day and there were forecasts of bad weather as the day wore on. Our car arrived late and we had to make a decision whether to abort our Sandakphu plan or not. Ultimately, we decided to take the risk – we would go until the point where it was feasible and then get back.
This journey offered us a different type of scenery – towering oaks and rhododendrons creating an arched pathway for us. This drive was one of the most scenic I have ever experienced. And then, partway into the ride, it started to snow.
On the way to Sandakphu
Wow!! We started in wonder at the snow as it rapidly carpeted the road. We stuck out our hands and tried to catch the snow (so childish I know!). Stopping at some random place, we got off to take some photos. But it was so cold, so cold that we got back into the warmth of the car pretty quickly. Crossing Jaubari, Gairibas and Kayakatta, we reached Kalapokhri, a mere 5 kms away from Sandakphu.
Kalapokhri was beautiful; it has a small holy lake and a cute temple residing among the mountains. It was beyond FREEZING by the time we reached there and snowing heavily. My hands were numb and my fingers barely moved as I tried taking photos. Standing in the midst of the buffeting wind and snow though, that feeling was unparalleled.
Kalapokhri
We spent about 15 minutes there after which the cold forced us to retreat into the car. Going further was pointless and risky so we decided to turn back from Kalapokhri. The journey back was fraught with tension. We were held up for a long time, since other cars were stuck in the 4-inch deep snow. Eventually we reached Tumling, picked up our luggage and drove back to Maneybhanjyang, and further onto Siliguri for our return to Mumbai the next day.
We regretted not being able to see the view from Sandakphu but boy were we thankful we got to experience the snow! It was a superb adventure!
Tip: The drive to Sandakphu is about 2.5 hours from Tumling and about 1.5 hours to return. Maneybhanjyang to Sandakphu return trip is about 6-7 hours. So, plan your trip accordingly. You can even stay at Sandakphu itself, it has homestays.
If you are looking for a vacation to a place off the beaten path, look no further than this charming village straddling the border. It is THE idyllic vacation which will relax and freshen your mind.
Year-end trips are a way of refreshing the mind and recharging our batteries for the year ahead. I bid adieu to 2019 and welcomed 2020 in the lap of nature – Darjeeling and the tiny border village of Tumling.
There is a multitude of information on the internet on what to do when in Darjeeling. What I am trying to do here is to share my experience, which entails how to make the best of your short holiday. I went online, asked friends and acquaintances to gather information. Based on this extensive research I planned my itinerary – 3 days in Darjeeling and a short side trip to an offbeat place nearby.
We i.e. my family and myself flew from Kolkata to Bagdogra airport in Siliguri – a short flight of 1 hr. – from where we took a pre-booked cab to reach Darjeeling.
Tip: The other way to reach Siliguri is via train upto NJP (New Jalpaiguri) Station.
Tip: You can easily hire a car outside the airport – there will be no shortage. But please do haggle on the fares because they may quote high prices. Bagdogra/NJP to Darjeeling should cost around Rs. 3500 by car. Make sure to reach Bagdogra or NJP before noon, so that you can reach your end destination within evening. It is advisable to not drive after dark.
It’s said, “It’s the journey that matters, not the destination”. As we traveled over the scenic mountain roads, this certainly was the case. Lush green tea gardens, towering pine trees and snow-capped mountains in the distance – eventually drawing close as we drove from a mere 400 ft to an altitude of 6800 ft. I could feel the change in weather as well – from the hot sunny weather in Siliguri to the evening chill of 4° C in Darjeeling.
Tip: Be sure to be suitably attired for this weather with jackets, scarves, gloves and hats. Layer more as night falls with thermal-wear.
Day 1
Evening-tea-mall walk-Glenary’s
After checking in at our hotel we had a cup of refreshing evening tea – we Bengalis love our tea morning and evening! We then set off to explore. Walking to the Mall, we enjoyed the biting cold, our breaths freezing in the sharp evening air.
Tip: Gandhi Road is one of the best areas to stay in, because of its nearness to the Mall and Chowrasta; it’s also a walking distance from the Chauk Bazaar and Taxi Stand as well.
The Mall
The Mall is a burst of color and activity – shops selling winter clothes, tea, curios, paintings and what not. I felt like ducking into each of the shops to look at their offerings – there is so much to look at and take in! We did a little bit of window shopping and soaking in the lively atmosphere – this place has an attraction of its own.
Tip: Most shops on the Mall close by 8 PM in the evening (some e.g. Golden Tips, pop-up winter clothes stores, etc. do remain open till later). Make sure to do all your shopping – window or otherwise – by then. Restaurants mostly close by 10.30 PM, some even before that, so getting a seat is hard after 8:00 especially in peak season.
Glenary’s facade
Glenary’s
We capped off our first day with dinner at Glenary’s. Glenary’s is known for its bakery but the food here is delicious as well. Roast pork, fried chicken and mixed chowmein was utterly yummy. There is live music as well – it’s wonderful being serenaded while you eat! Do visit Glenary’s when you are in Darjeeling – it’s a must do!
Next morning was a gift from the mountain gods. As I woke up and looked outside my window, I was greeted by the majestic Mt. Kanchenjunga in all its glory! What a breathtaking view it was! There stood the 3rd highest mountain in the world at such close quarters – sparkling white against the pristine blue sky. Wow – I stood there gazing at that wonder for eons. This was the highlight of my visit.
The day was planned for sightseeing points close-by. We booked a car via the hotel itself for a half- day tour to 4 points.
Tip: You can talk to your hotel; they will arrange a car for day tour of Darjeeling. It should cost around Rs. 3500 for 5 points trip.
Keventer’s
We breakfasted that day at the famous Keventer’s. Located at the entry point of the Mall, it’s known for its drool worthy breakfast and snacks. What I had was the pork platter – sausages, bacon, ham, salami and fried egg – and coffee. They were super yummy!
Tip: Platters are available in chicken as well. The hot chocolate is also worth a taste, my sister says.
Ghoom Monastery
Samten Choling, the new Ghoom Monastery (old one is called Yiga Choeling) is located on the Hill Cart Road, about 20 minutes away from Darjeeling. On reaching, one needs to climb down a number of steps to reach a large open space accommodating the monastery. The steps are not in good condition so mind your step! This white building with a golden top houses a huge idol of Lord Buddha at its centre. Spend a few minutes admiring the ancient paintings on the walls. The serene and quiet atmosphere had a calming effect on me.
Golden idol of Lord Buddha @Ghoom Monastery
Lamahatta
Lamahatta is about an hour’s drive (~25kms) from Darjeeling. The main attraction here is its eco-tourism – a picturesque eco-forest on the slopes of a mountain with an abundance of pine trees. Until a year ago, there were several short trekking routes to reach the mountain top, however now there is a 1 km pre-marked trekking route to the sacred pond. It is a pleasant trek with an amazing view though the pond is not really a big deal. The forest makes for some pretty pictures with its tall trees and the sun shining through the gaps. Walking on the cobbled path, I felt like an adventurer – climbing up in search of the pond.
Tribeni
Tribeni is the confluence of 2 rivers – Teesta and Rangit. This sightseeing point is basically a viewpoint of that confluence. It is a beautiful sight – the blue-green waters mixing into one another. The subtle shade difference – which arises due to different densities and content – makes for an alluring picture.
Tip: Optional activity is rafting on the Rangit river but in the month of December this is something we opted not to do.
Japanese Temple and Peace Pagoda
Last stop of the day was the Japanese Temple and the Peace Pagoda. They are situated in the same compound and is in Darjeeling itself. The temple is guarded by 2 white stone lion statues and the main temple is on the 1st floor. We were fortunate enough to take part in the evening prayer where we played a musical instrument as part of prayer; a racquet like thing to be struck with a wooden stick to the rhythm of their prayer song. It is soothing and so utterly peaceful. While leaving we were given “nakuldana” prasad. The temple houses golden statues of Lord Buddha.
Peace Pagoda
Peace Pagoda perches atop 40 odd steps a few metres away from the temple – a white stone structure with a huge golden statue of Lord Buddha. There are other statues depicting various avatars of Lord Buddha but unfortunately, I did not go up close because by then it was freezing cold and we were too tired to climb the stairs. Make sure you do visit the Pagoda from close quarters.
After the car dropped us back and we had had a little rest, we went shopping on the mall. Keychains, prayer flags, magnets, wind chimes, shawls, jewellery – we got some of each. You just cannot resist all the cute and colorful knick-knacks. That night, we cut a cake from Glenary’s to inaugurate the new year. Happy 2020!
Tip: Do haggle with the shopkeepers for these momentos and be sure to check all shops before buying.
Day 3
Toy train-Cable Car
Toy Train (DHR)
The DHR Toy Train!
The 1st day of 2020 was a throwback to childhood and an ode to Bollywood. We rode the Toy Train from Darjeeling to Ghum and back! As a child, I used to love trains.
Originally used as a mode of transportation between New Jalpaiguri and Darjeeling districts, it is now run as only joyrides. It is called the Darjeeling Himalayan Railways (DHR), a UNESCO World heritage site. These are narrow gauge trains, which are either steam or diesel fueled. The DHR climbs from sea level to a height of 7407ft at Darjeeling via several loops, zigzags and Z-reverses to combat the terrain and gain altitude.
The most famous of the loops is the Batasia Loop which is now a sightseeing point and the 1st stop on the Darjeeling-Ghum-Darjeeling train. It includes a beautiful garden and a War Memorial. The view from the loop is scenic.
Tip: The train gives a 10 minute stop here but you can visit this place separately as part of your half-day sightseeing tour.
Batasia Loop
The next stop is Ghum station (7407 ft) for a duration of 30 minutes. You can get off here, explore Ghum, and then return on your own steam to Darjeeling or take this same train back (included in the fare). We used those 30 minutes to have a look through the small one-room Ghum Museum (free of cost), which has some very interesting information and pictures about the DHR and the way it works. I found this tiny museum utterly charming and the train trivia fascinated me.
Tip: The whole journey is 2 hours long and there are several trains per day.
Back to Darjeeling by noon, we spent the rest of the day just roaming around Darjeeling since we had already visited all the other places worth seeing on our last trip. The last thing we wanted to do in Darjeeling was ride the Darjeeling Ropeway. Unfortunately, we couldn’t due to lack of tickets. The Ropeway takes you from Singamari (~7000ft) to Singla Bazar (~800 ft) and has beautiful views of the Rangit river valley.
Tip: If you want to ride these cable cars, be sure to book your tickets in the morning itself because they tend to get sold out by evening. Also, there are long queues so be prepared for a significant wait.
Pic credit: Holidify
Tip: You can also visit the following places during your second day in Darjeeling. We had already been to these during our last trip few years ago.
The Padmaja Naidu Himalayan Zoological Park (Darjeeling Zoo) houses varied species of animals including Red Pandas, Tibetan Wolf and the Royal Bengal Tiger.
Royal Bengal Tiger @ Darjeeling Zoo
The Himalayan Mountaineering Institute has a museum which has memorabilia belonging to Tenzing Norgay, the Sherpa who was one of the first 2 people to climb Mt. Everest. It has other artifacts and information pertaining to mountains and mountaineering. These two are worth a visit. They are entered via the same gate and has a common entrance fee.
Tea Estate
Happy Valley Tea Estate contains rolling tea gardens over the hilly slopes of Darjeeling. They have a tour of their tea-picking, processing and manufacturing stages in their estate, which ends with a tea tasting. We came away from our visit to this pretty tea estate with newfound knowledge on the various types of tea, which is the best and how to recognize good tea. This is a must do while in Darjeeling!
The most known sightseeing place which most people go to is the Tiger Hill – to watch the sunrise. But from what we had heard it is just a big hype and it anyway gets too crowded, so we gave this a miss.
Tip: One last thing I would recommend is walking on the roads of Darjeeling beyond the Mall. Just to walk among the mountains in that chilly air refreshes and relaxes you like nothing else can.
River Rangit
Summing up, your 3 day itinerary should ideally include:
Day 1 – Travel, Mall
Day 2 – Sunrise @ Tiger Hill (if you so wish), Ghoom Monastery, Batasia Loop (if you aren’t riding on the toy train), Lamahatta, Tribeni, Japanese Temple and Peace Pagoda
Day 3 – Toy Train, Zoo and HMI, Happy Valley Tea Estate and the Ropeway.
Must Eats: Thukpa, Momo, Glenary’s cakes and rum chocolates and Tibetan food from Kunga.
From Darjeeling, we traveled to a village called Tumling located on the Indo-Nepal border, about 73 kms away. If you wish to know more about this side trip, keep watching this space!
